Hi All,

This weekend I picked up a broken CRD. I'm not sure if it's going to be a flip or if I'm going to keep it.

When I got it, it was throwing errors about air in the fuel. After failing to start it over and over again, I pulled the timing cover to find out that the belt is missing teeth. I don't know how far off the timing is. I can tell you that it cranks over like it has compression and it sounded like it really wanted to start, so MAYBE i got lucky.

She's got 150k on the clock, probably the stock belt.

Now I'm unsure of what to do.

Here are my questions -

If the head got damaged, wha are the chances I damaged the bottom end, too?

With 150k on it, should I plan to order a whole new set of upper end components? Are any of the top end items considered durable enough to keep around?

Do we think the head is rebuildable or is it likely totally screwed?

at 150k how much else should I plan on rebuilding? I don't know the history.

What would you guys do? I'm trying to do the best I can do under $2200 or so (including machine work).

Lastly, are there service manuals around for these guys?

I really really like these things, and I'm considering selling my e46 daily driver to keep this, but reliability is a must and I don't want to be breaking down every 4 days with more specialized PITA parts.

Thanks,
-PC

Call me, or PM me your telephone number... there is too much to discuss here for me to write out everything you need to do.

Welcome to the forum.

Read the noob guide, that will get you started on the basics.

The head may be fine, and the rockers are trashed, or the valves might be trash.

Decent chance you got lucky and the valves are fine and you just need to do a rocker and timing belt job to have it back on the road.

_________________
http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

oohh don't sell your daily driver LOL ,, ok if the rest of the jeep is ok , then the engine side is our expertise , but it will come with a price ,,, so are you ready ? we are

I think the first thing I would do is toss a timing kit at it. Time it properly and see if I could get it to fire. If it did and ran good then I would put the rest of the front of the engine together and go about doing other maintenance and repairs. If not, then I would prepare to pull the head.

Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk

Pull the head, do the rockers and TB .... don't waste your time, you'll get a great vehicle once it's all put together.

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

If teeth were missing, then rockers are definitely broken. This is the designed failure method, so the valves should be fine. What you may want to consider is replacing the valves anyway (it isn't that hard once you get the head off) and then when you build it back up, use a fresh head gasket and double-coat it with copper seal and use ARP studs to ensure no future head gasket leaks. At 150k miles, it is right in the zone for a head bolt leak anyway.

Then when building it back, swap out the glow plugs for metal, delete the EGR (way easier with the head removed, deal with the exhaust manifold side) and then an intake elbow kit to clean up the intake side, have the valve cover professionally cleaned (you will see why) and THEN assemble it with a new timing belt.

Yeah it will be a lot of work, but your budget isn't out of line for the parts if your labor is free. All it will cost you is time, and your parts budget actually will be a bit less by buying from IDparts and only getting what you need. All the knowledge you need is here.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Where are you located? If someone is close you may have local advice and maybe even specific crd tools to borrow

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Tear down first to see what you need. Pretty sure you are going to need rockers and a timing belt kit at the minimum. I've seen rockers wore out at 125k and some that lasted to 225k (total scrap by then, but they made it). So at 150k, odds are that yours are worn enough that you should replace them all.

I doubt the bottom end is hurt. Head is probably alright too. But won't know until you get the intake off and see whether you need to go into the head.

_________________
My collection of CRD's:
2005 Deep Beryl Green Pearlcoat
2006 Light Khaki Metallic Clearcoat
2006 Inferno Red Crystal Pearlcoat
2006 Midnight Blue Pearlcoat
2006 Gold Limited
2015 Black Ecodiesel
2015 Black Ecodiesel 2

Don't do the EHM or you will blow your rear main seal like other noobs have done.

Thanks for the edit on your noob guide Sam, putting it in Red would make it stand out better.

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

yes 100 % to PROVENT , but what blows the seal ? in my opinion catch can does it and long tube extension toward rear of the vehicle , yes i know we all need PROVENT , but blow by tube like cummins 5.9 will not blow it ( I HAVE IT AND IT WORKS OK) and reason I'm going to prevent it is not main seal ,, it is public on the street they don't like it .

UPDATE -

All of the rockers were toast. One of the lifters snapped off in the hole, the rest were snapped. I think there was like 3 survivors out of the bunch. Ironically the bearings were all fine. Cams looked good.

I'm currently in the process of re-assembly. I took a wire-brush to the injectors and they're currently soaking in diesel injector cleaner.


Before I'm done I'll have new lifters, new belt, clean injectors, fresh water pump, new belts, a good intercooler, intake hose, new fluids, some new sensors and a thorough cleaning

I've decided to sell it when I'm done. I'm hoping for around $6500. My E46 is too easy of a daily driver for me to replace it, and I don't have the budget for a CRD in my life (I have a Datsun 510 getting an SR20, an Excursion Diesel that's going to need injectors and seals soon, and a few others). It has 150k on it, so I think that's reasonable.

Will post pics soon!

Ohhhh don't use steel wire brush on any part of the injector tips.

Yes, they are themselves steel, but the holes are bored with a knife edge all the way through, and even a slight taper at the surface where a steel wire brush has been used can totally mess up the atomization of the diesel, and cause loss of mileage, smoking, and accelerated coking of the injector tip.

I don't even use brass wire. Nylon brush only.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

I was thinking the same thing about not selling your daily driver. Mine is still my daily driver, but I've had it since new, and I know what can go wrong if you don't know the history. At this point you have an expensive hobby.

_________________
2005 Black KJ Sport CRD,
GDE Full Torque ECO TUNE, GDE Transmission ECO Tune,
Samco British Racing Green Hoses
Build Date 1/05
200k miles.
Original Owner

Yeah - I have a VW TDI that is my daily driver... That has been down with a blown torque converter for about 4 months now and I've been driving the Jeep. No way I would sell the VW, it is paid for and has 375k miles on it, I wouldn't get much even though it is a wagon. But it is paid for and still looks / runs great.

The CRD is a great vehicle when everything is done to the engine... BUT it is still a Jeep and still a Chrysler. There WILL be another "thing to fix" in the future.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

She starts up and drives pretty well!

Holy HELL that torque! It didn't hardly take any effort to get to 60 on the city streets near my house. I didn't even know I was going that fast.

It's still due for an oil change. I'm going to replace the filter, run it for a little while, and then replace it with another filter and fresh oil.

I also have some possible brake issues. They're a little bit grabby, and the ABS light is on. Codes are 3EFE (battery pack) and 20FE (can't find that one anywhere. Maybe a sensor?).

Beyond that, once I finish detailing it and put a few miles on it for the purposes of making sure it's all functional, it's going up for sale. Going to shoot for $7k with a little bit of wiggle room.

Thanks for the help and support guys. I'm going to buy another one of these, I just need to wait until I have a better budget. Currently the 510 and the 944 demand the attention of my wallet

-FW