DieselJeepLuvr wrote:
Done! Didn't help that I had to redo a bunch of wiring looms that were brittle with a lot of exposed wires. Also my intake manifold was seriously caked with soot and spent an hour or two scraping and wire brushing and vacuuming to get it half way decent (140k of buildup).
Aren't you glad you had a reason to do this and catch all these potential problems before you had to chase them down later?
DieselJeepLuvr wrote:
The steel EGR manifold bolts (removed on the stage 2 kit) go into an aluminum block. Now I don't know how the factory installs these but I bought this Libby because a dealership recently installed a new timing belt, EGR cooler and EGR valve. What chaps my butt is the idiots not only didn't retorque a bunch of bolts causing boost leaks but reinstalled these EGR manifold bolts dry with NO never cease. NEVER install a steel bolt into an aluminum anything dry unless you don't EVER want it to come out. There is an electrolysis that occurs between the two differing metals that weld them together! something as simple as a drop of oil will greatly help. Now I have ONE bold holding on my entire EGR assembly that has the head stripped off it (after breaking two Craftsman 10 mm sockets the 3rd one just stripped the head) and after about 6 hours of futile attempts I will either need to pull the transmission so I can torch the head off or leave it there for all eternity. Since I just had the tranny rebuilt last week it will probably be the ladder.
Why not use a die grinder, or better yet, a 4" angle grinder with a cutting disk, and just chop it out? If it's being thrown away as mine was, it really doesn't matter how cleanly it comes out, right?
DieselJeepLuvr wrote:
First thing I noticed now after installation is how quiet it is! No turbo whine from boost leaks!
