Anyone know how to get the two nuts on the drivers side of the trans mount off? They are on studs that appear to go up into the boxed "frame" portion of the body but the studs are rotating with the nuts pretty easily so i cannot loosen them. There doesnt appear to be any way to get to the tops of the studs. Any tips?

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I dont understand what you are describing.
Can you post a picture?
When I dropped my trans mount, all the bolts were just normal bolts and came out easily.

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U.S. Army Retired

Nevermind, I get it.
The 4 studs that go through the crossmember.
Maybe you can unbolt the mount from the trans, then drop the crossmember, then figure out how to get the nuts off.

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U.S. Army Retired

Sorry bad description. no it's not the 4 nuts for the trans mount to the cross member, it's from the cross member to the body. Each side has 3 big bolts that secure the cross member to the body but my drivers side also had two additional nuts hidden inside the crossmember.



The studs themselves are rotating and gripping them with pliers didn't get me anywhere. They don't seem like they are factory bolts now that I looked at em again.


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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Weird.
My 05 has regular old bolts. Three per side.
My wifes 06 is exactly the same.

In your pic you can see where the 3 bolts would have been.

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U.S. Army Retired

That's what I was thinking now. No clue why anyone would add those.


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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Crap, I know what it is. the previous owner had towed this jeep behind an rv and had a hydraulic brake system that pushed the brake pedal. The mount for that is on the floor of the drivers side footwell.


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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Wait, what?

What the hell does that have to do with the transmission crossmember bolts?

And what exactly is/was this hydraulic contraption?

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U.S. Army Retired

Bet they towed it wrong and burnt up the trans or t-case.While being fixed those bolts broke off in the unibody frame so they jerry rigged it.

Those bolts rusting apart and breaking is a common issue if you live anywhere that uses salt or has alot of rain.When I did my SFA swap I replaced those bolts with shorter grade 10.9's and I completely coated them with anti-sieze to prevent corrosion.

Those bolts i circled come through from the drivers foot well where they mounted a bracket used for a hydraulic device that presses the brake pedal when the tow vehicle stops(I assume like surge brake on a boat trailer). The jeep had a tow bar, hydraulic lines and weird extra light bulbs installed in the bottom cavity of the rear light housing as towing brake lights. I removed everything shortly after buying the jeep except for the bracket in the floor and forgot about it(been almost 4 years i think?)



Also, if it wasnt clear, I had the 3 big bolts on each side of the crossmember as well. I took all of those out and couldnt figure out why the crossmember still wouldnt drop and then saw these two hidden in there.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs