I'm replacing the entire front driveshaft on my 2005 CRD, but am struggling to find the part number. The part number that I have found is 52111597AA, is this correct? Has anybody had difficulty getting the right part?

52111593AB

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

I just replaced the front driveshaft in our CRD. I used a shaft from USA Standard Gear. It is manufactured in the US. I purchased it from http://www.RockAuto.com . The part number is ZDS9323. Rockauto currently has a $15 rebate on the shaft.

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2006 CRD Sport
GDE FT ECO tune, GDE TCM ECO tune, ARP studs, HDS-001 203F T-Stat, 3.7L nylon fan & Hayden 2905 clutch, Carter P76148M in-tank pump, Racor 245R122 filter head & 2 micron R25S fuel filter, Provent 200, Samcos, Fumoto F-102, Litens 920834A de-coupler, PML rear diff cover, OEM trans pan with welded in bung, JBA UCAs, full skids.

What's wrong with it that you want to replace the whole thing?

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L.O.S.T. #31000

'03 KJ Freedom Edition - 4" JBA Coilover Lift w/ 32" Cooper STT PROs
'98 XJ Sport - 6" Full-Traction 4-Link Long Arm - Jeepspeed #2731 (Race Jeep)

DobermanRacing.com - Team Driver
Sponsored by UltRanger & CellTech

Probably the fact that you have a 50/50 chance of a CV replacement blowing up in the first 1000 miles with all the cheap replacements out there...

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

The Dorman replacement I used didn't even last the 5 mile test drive. Sent them back for a refund and ponied up and bent over for an OEM replacement. Tired of doing things two and three times.

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2006 KJ Sport CRD, 2006 KJ LTD CRD, 2013 Subaru BRZ 6spd., 1994 Ford F150 XLT, 1969 Dodge Charger R/T 4spd. (Yes it's a Hemi).

The last time I replaced my front driveshaft rear CV joint was 3 years ago and its time for a replacement.
I don't remember the brand name but I got it from a Jeep shop on ebay. It was under $100.
3 years seems pretty good to me.

It seems that the common failure point is the rubber boot.
It tears open, the inside gets contaminated with water, and the grease disappears.

What is the correct grease for these joints?
Nearly all the replacement joints come with a pack of some sort of grease but I don't know what it is.
When I replaced mine I used the included grease plus added some M1 synthetic grease.
I wonder if some specific CV joint grease would be better?

Strangely enough, after all these years the front driveshaft front CV joint is still good.

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U.S. Army Retired

Why not take it to a driveline shop to be rebuilt?

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

I try to avoid Dorman products whenever possible. Admittedly I don't have a ton of experience with them, but from what I've seen, they tend to be garbage.