Engine stalling randomly

ehcorn · **Joined:** Sat Jun 13, 2015 4:10 pm **Posts:** 16

So I have a 2005, 2.8L D with the EGR delete and a reprogrammed ECU to eliminate the EGR related codes, timing belt was done 30k kms ago along with water pump and thermostat. I just replaced the fuel filter with the wix model 3647 from Napa, along with my typical oil change.

I drove 700 km's on the highway, and a little around town with steep hills and sharp bends with 0 issues, now suddenly I'm home and the first symptom was next to no power going up a hill, and the P0093 code. Now suddenly it's started stalling in traffic and I have to stop and restart the engine which it always seems to do after about 3 to 5 seconds of cranking. It seems to be linked to the engine demand, if I floor it it nearly always stalls now but if I take it really easy I can get places.

I bled the air from the fuel system using some instructions from lostjeeps here, I cracked the bleed valve and using a brake bleeding bottle pumped until air stopped coming out. I did have the line going uphill to attempt to prevent it sucking air back in. I noticed now that the pump is sucked into the housing and I'm wondering if all of this is because I didn't bleed the system correctly?

One thing to add, the previous owner installed a life pump, about the size of a toiler paper roll located on the fuel line leading to the engine, roughly 10" away from the fuel/water separator housing.

I also have a P0610 from a recent jump start that hasn't been an issue prior to this.

here's the full torque fault log from my ECU:
Fault log report generated by Torque for Android
=================================================

Vehicle VIN: XXXXXXXXXXX637000
Vehicle Manufacturer: Jeep
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present

Current Fault Log
------------------
P0610: Control Module Vehicle Options Error

Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0093: Fuel leak problem
P0610: Control Module Vehicle Options Error

Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
B2TAE: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web

End of report.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Jan 04, 2018 4:53 pm

Just for clarification, is the lift pump installed between the tank and the filter unit or between the filter and the CP3?

If you are getting air from the bleeder, the lift pump, for some reason, isn't doing it's intended job. If it has stopped, perhaps it's not a flow-through design, and is impeding fuel flow?

Do you have someone who can monitor your Torque App while you drive? Have them watch the fuel rail pressure to see what is happening while you drive in various modes.

APC9199 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 04, 2018 5:11 pm

If the pump is wired properly through the appropriate relay, you should hear it (maybe open the hood to hear better) when you turn the key to "ON" but do not actually crank the engine. It will make noise for about 15 seconds then stop. If you don't hear it, you have a failed pump, bad connection in the wiring, or blown relay. You can check the relay by simply swapping it with a spare of the same type. The location is shown in the user manual fuse section.

If you can hear the pump running but you're still having issues, then it is either sucking tons of air and you have a failed fuel line somewhere, or there's a different problem with the fuel supply system.

ehcorn · **Joined:** Sat Jun 13, 2015 4:10 pm **Posts:** 16

APC9199 wrote:

If the pump is wired properly through the appropriate relay, you should hear it (maybe open the hood to hear better) when you turn the key to "ON" but do not actually crank the engine. It will make noise for about 15 seconds then stop. If you don't hear it, you have a failed pump, bad connection in the wiring, or blown relay. You can check the relay by simply swapping it with a spare of the same type. The location is shown in the user manual fuse section.

If you can hear the pump running but you're still having issues, then it is either sucking tons of air and you have a failed fuel line somewhere, or there's a different problem with the fuel supply system.

, don't hear my lift pump anymore. I'm going to check my fuses and relays as soon as I get a new multi meter.

and to answer GordnadoCRD: I believe the lift pump is installed on the tank side of the fuel/water separator, I'm not sure what the CP3 is though. I'll check where the lines go to make sure.

update: Lift pump isn't working, but gets power for about 30 seconds after turning the ignition on. The pump is between the fuel tank and the fuel filter housing.

joe_ · **Posted:** Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:27 pm

ehcorn wrote:

I'm not sure what the CP3 is though.

That's your high pressure fuel pump. It's located below the alternator and is driven by the timing belt. It receives fuel from the fuel filter head and sends it up to the fuel rail.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Thu Jan 04, 2018 8:31 pm

Sounds like you found the problem. Try bypassing the lift pump and see if the problem goes away.

ehcorn · **Joined:** Sat Jun 13, 2015 4:10 pm **Posts:** 16

ebbnflow wrote:

Sounds like you found the problem. Try bypassing the lift pump and see if the problem goes away.

Well, I replaced the lift pump anyway as I didn't have the hardware to bypass the pump. I'll update with results for future reference if someone else has an issue like this.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:02 pm

Problem solved?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jan 06, 2018 12:45 pm

ehcorn wrote:

ebbnflow wrote:

Sounds like you found the problem. Try bypassing the lift pump and see if the problem goes away.

Well, I replaced the lift pump anyway as I didn't have the hardware to bypass the pump. I'll update with results for future reference if someone else has an issue like this.

What kind or brand of in-line pump did you have that went bad??? :roll:

Engine stalling randomly

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