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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 9:07 pm 
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After a 1-year journey, THE EAGLE HAS LANDED !! (Actually, the CRD has landed)

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Dean.

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2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 9:23 pm 
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Looking Good Dean! :D
Know you can't wait to get it running....

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 10:54 pm 
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Dean, I’ve been following your thread for a year, ever since your Jeep began making noise prior to the big fail. I haven’t posted anything here before because I don’t have a CRD, but I just wanted to say I admire your logical process and your stick-to-it-iveness! This thread is a gold mine for CRD engine repairs (with excellent photos and written descriptions), but it’s also inspiration for the courage to even attempt this kind of repair work. Engine repairs can seem scary but you make them accessible and doable. And interesting. Thanks and good luck. I’ll be waiting for you to fire it up. :JEEPIN:

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BFG KO2’s 245/75R16
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M116A3 Trailer build thread: viewtopic.php?f=72&t=77997


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 10:57 pm 
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Great to see! Looks more like a Cat in a jeep. Hope it will purr very nicely soon.

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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 3:35 am 
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lfhoward wrote:
Dean, I’ve been following your thread for a year, ever since your Jeep began making noise prior to the big fail. I haven’t posted anything here before because I don’t have a CRD, but I just wanted to say I admire your logical process and your stick-to-it-iveness! This thread is a gold mine for CRD engine repairs (with excellent photos and written descriptions), but it’s also inspiration for the courage to even attempt this kind of repair work. Engine repairs can seem scary but you make them accessible and doable. And interesting. Thanks and good luck. I’ll be waiting for you to fire it up. :JEEPIN:

lfhoward, WOW, what a declaration !! I didn't realize I had a fan. Thanks for coming out of the woodwork.

I'm not too sure about the courage to attempt this overhaul, but more akin to having no other choice. If I was on the mainland I probably would have found another engine, but being out in the middle of the Pacific I had no other choice. It was out of sheer luck and JieselDeep's watchful eye that a junk CRD was found across the island.

My main source of strength to keep going is from two sources: 1) the comradery and support I've found in this forum. 2) the resourcefulness of YouTube University, as I call it.

So, my thanks go out to you for sharing your words.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 3:56 am 
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Posts: 693
Thanks to everyone!

layback40, GordnadoCRD, WWDiesel, rancherman, iakj11, Grotsoldaat, WolverineFW, turblediesel, joe_, casm, flash7210.

GordnadoCRD and WWDiesel: I owe a special thanks to both of you because you brought your wisdom and experience early on to my project. You offered several tips that got me through some hard spots.

layback40: You came around later and also offered helpful tips that got me though a few more hard spots.

Everyone else: I know I have received many heartfelt tips, tricks, and warnings that I have forgotten over the course of this project. Thank you all.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 7:28 pm 
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Got the Jeep off the jack stands and onto all fours again. Continuing to assemble parts and pieces but I think I'm finished underneath.

There sure are a shitload of electrical connectors ! Several are connected now, but I still have a bunch to go. After a year I don't automatically remember where each one goes, but I think I'm on the right path.

I'm also very pleased with having the EGR system removed and the engine painted yellow. Everything is much more visible now.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 10:18 pm 
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Quote:
After a year I don't automatically remember where each one goes,

If you need help, holler, I can look a mine for a reference and can send pictures if needed.
Probably others willing to help as well if needed...
:D

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 3:37 am 
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Thank you WWDiesel. I'm sure I'll need some help. The black & white drawings in the .PDF manuals leave a lot to be desired. I am fortunate enough to have another engine on a stand to make comparisons, although it's partly disassembled.

Monday I'll be going back to work but I may take Friday off for a 3-day weekend to finish up.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 5:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 2505
Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Hello Dean!
Glad to hear and see the golden nugget back in it's setting!
Isn't it amazing how much it stirs the blood to hear an engine you've overhauled fire up and not blow up? :BANANA:

Aural motivation of the finest sort!

Just a poke in the "right" direction if I may..
Since you will most likely be removing the fuel tank to clean and dry...
One of the very bestest things you can do for your CRD is to drop in a lift pump in place of the existing sending unit.
There are many ways to do it, the fastest and easiest in-tank solution is from Sasquatch Parts.
https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/in-tank-lift-pump-for-jeep-liberty-crd-5143160aa/
The more expensive but much more time saving is the plug and play wiring loom.
https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/plug-and-play-in-tank-lift-pump-wiring-harness-for-jeep-liberty-crd/
For mine, I modified my oem loom, and pulled a nearly new pump unit from a wrecked 1 ton at a local yard, as the Sasquatch loom option was not available yet.

One more thing that jumped out at me.
Looking at the rebuilt head photos, I was trying to figure what glow plug you have in cylinder #2. Bosch?
#1, #3, and #4 kind of started ringing alarm bells. Those look very much like the original ceramic plugs that are prone to breaking off and destroying pistons, valves, heads, etc. I urge you to check and be sure they are absolutely not. Change them if they are. Please. these are fun little rigs once the niggles are all worked out. I'd hate for someone to have to go through all you have for the last year all over again, or actually consider dumping the rig, over missing something this small but important.

CAn't wait until you're "test driving" it all over the island!

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 12:54 am 
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Posts: 693
GordnadoCRD wrote:
Since you will most likely be removing the fuel tank to clean and dry...
One of the very bestest things you can do for your CRD is to drop in a lift pump in place of the existing sending unit.
There are many ways to do it, the fastest and easiest in-tank solution is from Sasquatch Parts.
https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/in-tank-lift-pump-for-jeep-liberty-crd-5143160aa/
The more expensive but much more time saving is the plug and play wiring loom.
https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/plug-and-play-in-tank-lift-pump-wiring-harness-for-jeep-liberty-crd/
For mine, I modified my oem loom, and pulled a nearly new pump unit from a wrecked 1 ton at a local yard, as the Sasquatch loom option was not available yet.

Thank you GordnadoCRD for your boost, for offering a solution, and for noticing the glow plugs.

Fuel tank: Although I didn't mention it before, I noticed something very odd when transferring fuel out of the tank... there was a lot of air bubbles along with the fuel. Apparently I have a leak in the suction line somewhere along the way. I live in a rainy locale so the pump must be sucking water from a rain wetted underside along with air. This weekend I will transfer some fuel back through the same path and look for a leak. I'll leave the fueling cap on and restrict the vent line just to build up some pressure.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 3:53 am 
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GordnadoCRD,

After looking at the product description of the drop-in Sasquatch in-tank pump, it mentions helping to eliminate water in fuel problems. That makes it sound like normal, modern, click-together fuel line connectors are more reliable in a pressurized line. If this is correct, then an in-tank pump is certainly a good idea. I would not want to go through this again, and neither would my wife.

Apparently the 1-ton wreck you got yours from was a 1-ton Dodge Cummins? I can modify my wire loom too and save an extra $230. plus S & H. (They are out of stock right now and I'd have to join a wait list) It seems the new $160 Sasquatch pump does not come with a connector.

I should put a pressure gauge or light in the dash for lift pump pressure. If it were to fail I would never know it until the next blow up.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 4:01 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 693
GordnadoCRD wrote:
Looking at the rebuilt head photos, I was trying to figure what glow plug you have in cylinder #2. Bosch? #1, #3, and #4 kind of started ringing alarm bells. Those look very much like the original ceramic plugs that are prone to breaking off and destroying pistons, valves, heads, etc. I urge you to check and be sure they are absolutely not. Change them if they are. Please. these are fun little rigs once the niggles are all worked out. I'd hate for someone to have to go through all you have for the last year all over again, or actually consider dumping the rig, over missing something this small but important.

Thanks for taking a close look at the repaired head. (And thank you layback40 for suggesting I post pictures of the repaired head) The one odd glow plug is from a 2006 CRD engine. The tip was blown off the #2 glow plug. I saw evidence of the tip bouncing around that cylinder before it shot out through the exhaust port, or pulverized.

I wish now I had put the 2006 glow plug in #3 cylinder because that is the only one that requires taking off the intake elbow to remove. However, with the EGR and block heater removed, plus the engine painted yellow, I can see them easily.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 4:10 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am
Posts: 693
GordnadoCRD wrote:
Hello Dean! Glad to hear and see the golden nugget back in it's setting! Isn't it amazing how much it stirs the blood to hear an engine you've overhauled fire up and not blow up? :BANANA: Aural motivation of the finest sort!

Thanks GordnadoCRD for the Kudos. Seems I took out a piece of coal and installed a diamond, a yellow diamond.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 2:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 2505
Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
CaptainDean wrote:
GordnadoCRD,

After looking at the product description of the drop-in Sasquatch in-tank pump, it mentions helping to eliminate water in fuel problems. That makes it sound like normal, modern, click-together fuel line connectors are more reliable in a pressurized line. If this is correct, then an in-tank pump is certainly a good idea. I would not want to go through this again, and neither would my wife.

Apparently the 1-ton wreck you got yours from was a 1-ton Dodge Cummins? I can modify my wire loom too and save an extra $230. plus S & H. (They are out of stock right now and I'd have to join a wait list) It seems the new $160 Sasquatch pump does not come with a connector.

I should put a pressure gauge or light in the dash for lift pump pressure. If it were to fail I would never know it until the next blow up.

Dean.

Correct in all.

The factory plastic lines between the tank and steel lines are carried over from the petrol models, and seal well when pressurized from inside, but allow air to enter readily when a vacuum is pulling the fuel from the tank, as with the diesels.

The one I used was from a 1 ton, but I believe any of the Cummins diesel powered pickups use the same pump.
1) get the lowest mileage one you can find
2) before swapping into your tank, swap the sending unit float+arm+rheostat from your original unit onto the cummins unit.

Check out WWDiesel for a solution to the "is it working" question.
He installed a pressure gauge between the filter and the CP3 pump, which not only tells him that it's working, but works as an indication of how plugged the fuel filter is.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 2:27 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 2505
Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
CaptainDean wrote:
GordnadoCRD wrote:
Looking at the rebuilt head photos, I was trying to figure what glow plug you have in cylinder #2. Bosch? #1, #3, and #4 kind of started ringing alarm bells. Those look very much like the original ceramic plugs that are prone to breaking off and destroying pistons, valves, heads, etc. I urge you to check and be sure they are absolutely not. Change them if they are. Please. these are fun little rigs once the niggles are all worked out. I'd hate for someone to have to go through all you have for the last year all over again, or actually consider dumping the rig, over missing something this small but important.

Thanks for taking a close look at the repaired head. (And thank you layback40 for suggesting I post pictures of the repaired head) The one odd glow plug is from a 2006 CRD engine. The tip was blown off the #2 glow plug. I saw evidence of the tip bouncing around that cylinder before it shot out through the exhaust port, or pulverized.

I wish now I had put the 2006 glow plug in #3 cylinder because that is the only one that requires taking off the intake elbow to remove. However, with the EGR and block heater removed, plus the engine painted yellow, I can see them easily.

Dean.

Quite honestly, it's unlikely in Hawaii to actually require glow plugs anyway, if your battery is healthy. Just wanted to make sure you weren't in jeopardy of the Ceramic plugs ruining all your hard work.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2018 11:21 pm 
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Posts: 228
Location: Alaska
I can sell you my brand new, never installed, 7v eteckno glow plugs.

I've been reading they're not going to work well for my climate so I'm off to the store for some 5 volters.

Great job on your engine! Love the yellow!


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 2:47 am 
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GordnadoCRD wrote:
CaptainDean wrote:
GordnadoCRD wrote:
Looking at the rebuilt head photos, I was trying to figure what glow plug you have in cylinder #2. Bosch? #1, #3, and #4 kind of started ringing alarm bells. Those look very much like the original ceramic plugs that are prone to breaking off and destroying pistons, valves, heads, etc. I urge you to check and be sure they are absolutely not. Change them if they are. Please. these are fun little rigs once the niggles are all worked out. I'd hate for someone to have to go through all you have for the last year all over again, or actually consider dumping the rig, over missing something this small but important.

Thanks for taking a close look at the repaired head. (And thank you layback40 for suggesting I post pictures of the repaired head) The one odd glow plug is from a 2006 CRD engine. The tip was blown off the #2 glow plug. I saw evidence of the tip bouncing around that cylinder before it shot out through the exhaust port, or pulverized.

I wish now I had put the 2006 glow plug in #3 cylinder because that is the only one that requires taking off the intake elbow to remove. However, with the EGR and block heater removed, plus the engine painted yellow, I can see them easily.

Dean.

Quite honestly, it's unlikely in Hawaii to actually require glow plugs anyway, if your battery is healthy. Just wanted to make sure you weren't in jeopardy of the Ceramic plugs ruining all your hard work.

Took the glow plugs out of the 2006 engine today and my actual memories started coming back. Turns out I was remembering incorrectly when I wrote the comment in [bolt] [italics] [brightpink] above.

The one rounded-tip glow plug (installed in the repaired head, cylinder 2) is not a new glow plug, it's really an old one with the tip already broken off. :banghead:

My engine also had one glow plug with the entire probe broken off.

I figured I did not need glow plugs in Hawaii either so I used the broken off tip one in place of the totally broken off one.

Image Glow plugs removed from 2006 engine.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Last edited by CaptainDean on Mon Dec 10, 2018 3:14 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 2:55 am 
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turblediesel wrote:
I can sell you my brand new, never installed, 7v eteckno glow plugs. I've been reading they're not going to work well for my climate so I'm off to the store for some 5 volters.

turblediesel: I have some questions. I have not researched glow plugs at all...
1) what is your price for your 7v glow plugs?
2) what is the advantage of 7v glow plugs over 5v models?
3) does the vehicle need any modification to run 7v glow plugs in place of 5v ones?
4) what climate are you in? ...and what climate are the 7v glow plugs targeted toward? (I'm in the tropics)

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Hard to find noise -- clinking and clanking
PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 3:08 am 
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Posts: 693
WWDiesel wrote:
Quote:
After a year I don't automatically remember where each one goes,

If you need help, holler, I can look a mine for a reference and can send pictures if needed. Probably others willing to help as well if needed... :D

I have been installing connectors today and re-routing the harness from where I initially thought it might go. Believe I have the back of the engine connected. Also identified and taped-back the EGR connectors.

I'm going slowly and trying to assure I have everything at the back connected before I install the front parts. Once the front is on I will have a much more difficult time finding things in the back.

I'm sure this connector will reveal it's place as I put the front stuff on. Until then, I have not remembered where this one goes. It is wrapped in the same bundle as the air conditioner clutch connector. (I have it lifted up and hanging from the alternator mount for the picture)

Image

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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