Greetings To The Lost World!

Another over complicated system that relies on a computer to do something more easily done with a cable. 
What you don’t know, and must now be told is one of the reasons I purchased Lando with 106k on the clock was he came with a new engine that has only 700 miles on it, and a 3 year 100k warranty!
Today Lando came out of his spot in the garage and was suddenly making a whining belt noise. I popped the hood and it sounded like a symptom of the automatic tensioner. I wanted to raise the RPM’s for a better confirmation, but could find no throttle lever on the throttle body! I saw where the cruise servo cable tied into the rear left side of the throttle body, but no way to manually actuate the throttle. Any ideas, or am I a dinosaur out of luck?

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Until the next dimension,
Admiral "Coluch"
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Lando Liberty 2011 Kk

The throttle is 100% drive by wire, so the only way to raise engine speed is through the gas pedal. You might be able to raise it a few hundred RPM by taking the brake booster hose off of the manifold but you might set a DTC for vacuum leak.

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2008 Liberty Sport
OME Lift, JBA A-Arms + Track Bar
245/75/16 Nokian Rotiiva AT Plus
Numerous junkyard upgrades

Servo cable? The 08+ Libby is completely drive by wire, even the cruise control.
I'd love to see a Pic of the setup.

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07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

It sure looked like a servo cable at the TB end. I guess it could be a plastic vacuum line. This rig is so foreign to me. . Give me a set of distributor points, and a carb any day!

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Until the next dimension,
Admiral "Coluch"
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Lando Liberty 2011 Kk

I hear that! My last ride was an 88 Cherokee. It had some computers but nothing like the KK or KA. It was a BIG learning curve having to deal with all the computers. The Bummer is they make it almost impossible to Mod or tune to your liking.
I remember setting points with a matchbook cover, and rotating the distributor a little to get more jump off the line. Then tuning the carb/carbs by ear and a screwdriver. 80-140 Mph on the freeway with no traffic or police around. Ahhh, the good old days...
But alas, I digress back to reality. Drive by wire sucks!
Particularly when the throttle sticks at 4000 rpm as you are approaching a stop sign and pressing on the brake as hard as you can! "POP it into neutral!", my brain is screaming, as I am now just 20' from the car stopped at the sign.
The cause was just a tiny bit of carbon buildup in the throat of the TB, causing the butterfly valve to stick. Now I check and clean the TB every 3 months.

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07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

I hear you buddy! I used to be a firm believer in buying only Shell premium for all of my FI vehicles. It was the best consistent pure gasoline around. In the last few years they have been adding questionable additive packages, like Nitrogen, and I have seen issues with fuel pump diaphragm failures. So I quit paying the big bucks for the stuff, and started using Shell mid-grade. I save a bundle at the pump, and I top off each tank with a small bottle of Lucas Fuel Treatment. Since doing that I have had much better response out of the various throttle bodies in my fleet, and picked up a couple of miles per gallon. I call that a double win!

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Until the next dimension,
Admiral "Coluch"
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Lando Liberty 2011 Kk