Science and Energy wrote:
That driveshaft doesn't have flanges either that our Liberty's require?
Here is a direct answer to my question from 4xshaft.com. I think this is a kludge way to go and I would setup the pinion preload with a new crush sleeve and nut. Why 4xshaft.com doesn't make a direct replacement for our Liberty's beats me. Here's Tom's comments
Quote:
Yes, changing the pinion flange, to a yoke, would be required. However,,,, The purpose of the crush sleeve is to set the pre-load between the pinion head and tail bearings. With not enough pre-load, the pinion will thrust sideward under a load and destroy the ring & pinion gear. Too much pre-load and the bearings will fail prematurely if they don't just seize up. Setting the crush is simply compressing the crush sleeve, lengthwise, until it is the correct length required to properly space the pinion head & tail bearings.
Per factory instructions, in order to correctly install a crush sleeve, the differential needs to be completely disassembled. The crush sleeve is placed between the pinion head and tail bearing. Then the new yoke is installed, and the nut tightened. Correctly adjusting the "crush" or pre-load requires tightening the nut until it takes approximately 7 to 10 inch pounds of torque to rotate the pinion.
The above is a lot of work. This is the approach I give. It has worked well for me for about 30 years now:
Because the crush sleeve usually takes in excess of 200 FT/LBS. of torque on the nut to compress, and if you do not come close to reaching this torque on the nut, you will not over-crush the sleeve. So, I suggest when replacing the yoke, you clean the threads on the nut and the pinion with some good de-greaser. Then apply a liberal coating of a high temp, high strength, permanent thread locking compound such as Loc-Tite.
After doing this you simply tighten the nut to about 160 FT/LBS. of torque. This will not be enough to compress the crush sleeve, but it will be tight enough to properly load the bearings. With the combination of the torque on the nut and the thread locking compound, the nut should not back off.
Some people think that marking the nut in relation to the pinion and tightening the nut until the marks align is a good way to go. I suppose it would be, if you are reusing the original yoke. However, since you are using a new yoke, which may be slightly longer or shorter through the bore, I have my doubts on the accuracy of this method.