Locked up intake cam.

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

This is a continuation of “I bought a crd and I have issues. Rockers?”

What I thought was a faulty timing belt tensioner turned out to be the intake cam in the process of locking up.

What are my options?
Do I just try to sell this thing and cut my losses? What is it even worth? I have about 5k in this thing. 110,000 miles, body is about %50. Has some damage.

I know cams are available but am I going to be relying on a junk yard valve/cam cover?

Please share your thoughts.

Garrett

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

After a ride on the drz and a nap I decided I want going to get anywhere being upset so I dove back into it.
Some how a piece of one of the broken rockers ended up between the gasket and the cam cover at the oil feed for the rear bearing for the intake cam. This I believe was not only starving that bearing for oil, but also knocking things out of alignment.

I sat the cover on my bench and got the cam “broke free” with a ratchet, filled the oil feeds with oil and slowly turned it over with a drill. More oil and more drill and it is a little tighter than the exhaust cam but I don’t think it’s to bad considering.

It’s about to go back together, fingers crossed.
Garrett

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 29, 2019 8:34 am

Glad you decided to continue working with it. If it functions ok when reassembled you will be glad. You always have the choice of buying the new cam or getting a used cam or whole intake with cams. There is a recent post about parting out engine parts that may have parts you need or if you have the time you may be able to source new or used part from VM Specialists in UK .

Either way as much as you have already put into it there is very little worth with damaged body and non-functioning engine so to get any worth (personal or via sell) for it you almost have to get the engine running correctly. Still interested in your progress keep us posted. I too often get frustrated and take a break for a while working on this CRD s.

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

I got her back together and running last. After a few hot laps around the shop I took it down the driveway. Doesn't want to rev over 1800 rpm in 2nd. It was about 10pm at this time so I couldn't tell if it was smoking or not. My guess is the vanes are stuck in the turbo or the MAP is goofed. I cleaned the MAP in my down time waiting on parts (not saying its not bad).

What really gets me is that I still don't have a check engine light. This being an 05 I am going to try to try the on-off-on-off-on trick hoping it has not been reflashed. Does anyone know if there is a where/way to pull the CE light signal? Perhaps the people I bought this from pulled the bulb? now that I'm thinking of it I cant remember seeing the symbol while switching the ignition.

She does start and idle really nice. I leaned in and hit the key before I left for work today and it started on the first hit.

Thank you all for the help getting me to this point. This is a great group!

Garrett

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Fri Aug 02, 2019 1:12 pm

When you first turn your key to on and your dashboard runs the test for the lights on the cluster, you should see the check engine light on.

There was also a way to test the cluster lights I believe. Maybe someone else will remember.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 02, 2019 1:15 pm

you can test all instrument panel lights function by holding down odometer reset button while turning ignition key to on position . The gauges and lights will all operate. If no engine shape shows in upper right corner of gauge below the low tire pressure symbol and above the battery symbol then the CEL isn't working.

If it has no tune you can just unplug the MAF sensor on top of air box and CEL should come on but it will not affect the running except electronically disable the EGR this is also called the Off Road Mod (ORM) and may improve fuel mileage 1-2 mpg or so.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 02, 2019 1:25 pm

There are also codes having to do with transmission and possibly others that may not be detectable with standard readers. They may also trigger a generic code that points to the system but not specific info.

You may want to look for a vacuum leak. You might also unplug the vacuum line to the turbo and see if the turbo actuator reacts. There was a post a few weeks ago where the turbo actuator moved and seemed to pass the test but the arm was broken internally so the vanes were not moving but were not stuck, so this would be a fairly rare occurrence.

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

This will be kinda scatter brained, I’m tired and working on my second stiff drink.
Ended up being a broken vac line. Fixed that and it was running pretty good.
After a strong pull (ie.it ran well) and cursing at 50-70, once I slowed down it had almost 0 power but there was no smoke. I found if I would just coast for a bit, 10 seconds?, it would puff a little smoke and pull like “normal”.
All the while it was making a slight knock/tap from the driver side but I could only hear it in the cab. I thought it was the motor mount. Along with that normal tap there would be a “squeak” or a rattle but not consistently.
After 25 miles of short drives I was heading back to the house and it started running really roughy and the squeak/squall was pretty bad. Pulled into the door and it squalls really bad and died. Starter wouldn’t turn it over.
I think the intake cam is trashed. That would explain the squall but I don’t understand the rpm dependent “knock”. I wish I had a metronome so I could tell if it one from a firing or every crank rev or cam rev.

Let it sit for 10 min and it started and idled ok after a few seconds of rattle. Still had the tick/knock/tap comming from the driver side.

I did like how it drove though,until...

It’s fair weekend. I’m going to try to clear my head and maybe take it back down Monday and see what I can find. I’m getting way to good at it.
Garrett

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 03, 2019 9:14 am

yes practice makes perfect ! After 2 times for removing valve cover and head to replace head gasket I needed to just replace rockers and ARP s and didn't have to remove anything on passenger side except screw holding heater hose bracket and just undid FVC but left it in place and just lifted wiring harness up and moved only the two sensors to air box and thermostat sensor and viscous heater sensor. This made it much faster! Live and learn.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 05, 2019 8:29 pm

I see where you inquired about some parts from a parting out CRD hope that will get your problem fixed economically.

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

TKB4 wrote:

I see where you inquired about some parts from a parting out CRD hope that will get your problem fixed economically.

The motor was already spoken for. sounds like GDE might be a source. i am going to take mine to a welder buddy of mine tonight and have him try to weld up the crack in the oil passage.

I think what happened is that as the oil warmed up and thinned out more was getting out of that crack and started starving the cam of oil again.

Imo, its worth a try, not saying its the best plan long term but I'm sure worse things have been done to more fragile motors.

Garrett.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 06, 2019 9:46 am

Are you talking about welding up a crack in the valve cover ?

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

TKB4 wrote:

Are you talking about welding up a crack in the valve cover ?

Yes, there is a vertical crack in the boss that delivers oil to cam journal.
Welding an aluminum casting that has been covered in carboned up diesel oil... should be interesting...

Garrett

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

My fix didn't work.
In search of an intake and a set of cams.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Aug 11, 2019 11:01 am

TheKansasGman wrote:

My fix didn't work.
In search of an intake and a set of cams.

Dang left an intake and set of cams at the junkyard a couple months back that I was really debating about grabbing.

I have something like 2-4 intakes here, but I'm not sure about which cams are good, do you need both or was it just the one that failed?

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

Sir Sam wrote:

TheKansasGman wrote:

My fix didn't work.
In search of an intake and a set of cams.

Dang left an intake and set of cams at the junkyard a couple months back that I was really debating about grabbing.

I have something like 2-4 intakes here, but I'm not sure about which cams are good, do you need both or was it just the one that failed?

I just need the intake cam. I have an intake on its way to me but I've been waiting for the cam to return to stock at IDParts.

Please let me know if you have a good intake came you would be willing to part with.

Garrett

Josh P · **Joined:** Fri Aug 09, 2019 3:20 pm **Posts:** 16

ODR Auto wrecking in Phoenix, AZ has an intake with cams. (602) 740-7692. I bought a timing case and noticed the intake was still inside the car.

TheKansasGman · **Joined:** Fri Jun 07, 2019 10:02 pm **Posts:** 39

Josh P wrote:

ODR Auto wrecking in Phoenix, AZ has an intake with cams. (602) 740-7692. I bought a timing case and noticed the intake was still inside the car.

If I hadn't ordered the new intake I would be all over that.

Sir Sam, email sent. if I don't hear back from you today I am going to order one from IDparts.

Thank you both.

Garrett,

TKB4 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 15, 2019 12:45 pm

See PM just sent about intake and cams.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Aug 16, 2019 6:34 pm

TheKansasGman wrote:

Josh P wrote:

ODR Auto wrecking in Phoenix, AZ has an intake with cams. (602) 740-7692. I bought a timing case and noticed the intake was still inside the car.

If I hadn't ordered the new intake I would be all over that.

Sir Sam, email sent. if I don't hear back from you today I am going to order one from IDparts.

Thank you both.

Garrett,

Hey, just got to looking at your PM. I haven't dug anything out to see what is what for cams and intakes, so if something falls through with your ID parts order let me know. My garage is a mess that needs cleanup before one of the parts cars can be pulled away from the storage wall to access and check the intakes. Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner.

Locked up intake cam.

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