Someone's been here. There is a small weld on the inside of each cam gear that grabs on the notch on the cam..
Why would someone do this to index them to cams? I assume I should grind it off smooth? Note: Long time mechanic. First time Inside one of these.

If they were putting the cam gears on such that the weld was in the notch in the cam , they may have done that to help hold the cam while the bolt was tightened and to enable them to use a mark as a reference for timing that could not change on visible side. The problem as I see it is that they are a tapered fit and if you grind them off then the gears could be put back in any position and the taper may not match well. Since it doesn't really matter where the gears go on I believe I would just use them like they are unless it was causing a problem. Basically sounds like they created a key with the weld. When timed correctly the notches on the two cams will face each other.

Yes, this engine has a lot of quirks but once understood its actually not that bad. The wiring and sensors etc cause a lot of frustration too. If I had three wishes for the vehicle I guess they would be that it had a functional torque converter and an in tank lift pump and either a timing chain with keyed cams or a valve cover removable without removal of rear timing cover. But alas there is a much longer list.

If you need any help don't hesitate to ask there are many here willing to help and more knowledgeable than I.

Welcome

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Thanks for the quick reply.Here is a pic. Yeah I see your point on grinding. I'm doing rockers, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and idlers and would really like to delete the egr stuff while all torn down. I found out that Sasquatch no longer sells the elbow kit I assume because of EPA. Is there anyplace you can still get the intake adapter and elbow with boot and clamps and block plug to dump the cooler and air flapper?

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Nvm, found kit on fleebay

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Thanks for pics someone went to a lot of trouble. Yes there are kits on eBay like the kb diesel kit and others with a solid elbow without the 4 inch or so silicone spacer. You can also make your own so it looks original like this but it doesn't make it easier to access glow plugs etc.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=90293

Depending on the miles on engine you may want to consider replacing the exhaust valves . You might also consider putting in ARP studs even if you do not remove the head . You can do them one at a time without removing head. The one thing I would consider a must do if it hasn't been done is to remove any ceramic glow plugs if present and replace with 5 volt metal ones especially since this isn't very expensive.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Is there an easy way to tell if the glow plugs are ceramic while still installed? It only has 130,000 miles.

See this at IDParts.com:> https://idpartsblog.com/2017/10/13/crd- ... or-7-volt/
If they are ceramic, you need to get them out as they are ticking time bombs!
If one of them breaks off, it can cause catastrophic engine damage.

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

I don't believe you can tell without removing them. The original ceramic have :

BOSH
then something like a serial number that is not the same on all of them
then all I have have the number: 0 250 302 004 and either 7V or7.0V
They also have a football ellipse with the number 955 inside it and FRANCE and a manufacture date

The ones I have are dated from 2008 to 2012.

Here is pic of normal ones and 4 broken ones . 3 of the broken ones came the Jeep I just started working on again about a week ago. I had two other jeeps with one broken in each one. One I haven't looked at yet. Two had already had steel glow plugs installed when I got them. Man, I can't believe the one I am finishing up on made it through 3 broken ones without catastrophic harm
https://imgur.com/fkaWRq9
https://imgur.com/78BSRlO

If you can zoom in you can see the 955 and some of the numbers. You would think you could look at tip but with the soot on it difficult. Maybe a magnet to tip might work too.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Well crap. Got the cam carrier/ intake off and has two broken lifters and two exhaust bent valves, one each in cyls 1 and 2. What is the reasoning for replacing all exhaust valves so I can convince owner (girlfriend's jeep)?

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How are you determining the valves are bent? The rockers are the designed failure mode if there is any piston-to-valve contact, then the rocker is designed to break in half. There have been plenty of examples of the older lifter design separating and falling over - this certainly causes problems b/c those valves no longer open. But there shouldn't be anything on the top of the head to bend the valves.

Now as for reasons to change the exhaust valves - YES you need to change them, especially if there is ANY question about their lifespan or they are close to 200k miles. The testing we have had done and the experiences of the community have proven that the exhaust valves separate due to metal fatigue somewhere around 300 billion cycles, or roughly 200k miles. This seems to be made worse (shorter time) by longer EGR usage which raises the cylinder temperatures and causes changes in the actual metal structure.

If an exhaust valve separates, it will drop onto the top of the piston. This isn't good normally, but in the CRD it is catastrophic. When the piston is at the top of travel, there is barely sufficient room to slide a sheet of paper between the piston and the head. So anything that is out of place WILL CAUSE terrible damage and ruin the head, the piston, and possibly the entire motor. I have been asked to try and rebuild several of these after the failure, and not all of them are salvageable. If the piston jams and bends sideways due to the incredible forces... The block is toast.

If there is any question - just change the valves. If you have to remove the head for any reason (changing head gasket from leak?) then change the valves. If you need any help with this, I'm the traveling CRD tech, I've worked on about 100 of them now and done about 35 of these valve jobs. This is one situation where prevention is DEFINITELY worth a pound of cure!

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

The crank is locked with the pin installed and with cam cover off, the two valves are stuck if tapped lightly with a hammer. All the rest move up and down normally and sound right when tapped-these two do not move down when tapped and have a solid sound.
Rockers were off center not broken, lifter tip was out of one and laying next to it. I'm assuming bent as they are stuck.

Not to question your observation or diagnosis but there is more than one place the crank can match with a hole in the flywheel at least if you are using anything other than the screw in miller tool which is fairly difficult to thread usually. You might want to visually verify that it is the correct hole by confirming that the timing mark next to the crank bolt you are turning the engine by is at 3 o clock just to double check.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

I'll look for that. I read other holes are bigger. I can only move crank about a quarter inch back and forth. Crank is in same position as when I inserted intake cam pin. Such an important hole they should have protected it with a rubber plug in the threads. Can't get proper tool in, using drill bit.

Head off, the two valves show no sign of striking anything but are stuck open a little. My fear now is getting them out without breaking the guides.


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Valve guides are available from ID parts and are not expensive.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

I did think about the cam gears some more and I would use them as is as long as the Timing Belt goes onto the gears correctly but the cam gears normally are not tightened until the belt is on and it seeks its correct position automatically since it can move until torqued. It would be pure chance if the welds were in the exact correct place. They could be off say half a tooth which would make engine timing a little off and could cause excessive Timing Belt wear also but if the cam timing pins went in easily at same time with the cam gears on I still think you are fine.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

As for getting the valves out of the guides, I have worked on some that have been very tight in the guides due to gum or other deposits, but when cleaned with a copper brush (gun cleaning kits have these) and lots of brake cleaner, the results have been great.

Oil changes are super important on every car, but this vehicle they are even more so.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.