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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 9:58 am 
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GordnadoCRD wrote:
When I went through mine I expected to have trouble in this area, and got a small roll of copper tubing to replace the plastic, (icemaker water line) but haven't had any trouble with the plastic line thus far. (pre-emptively insulated along with the oil supply line to the turbo.)


Took a look (as best I could without completely removing them) at the hard vacuum lines from the brake booster to the turbo vacuum reservoir as well as from the turbo vacuum modulator to the vane actuator. Didn't see any obvious signs of damage, but that doesn't necessarily mean anything.

What I'm thinking is this: rule them out entirely by replacing them with high-temperature silicone vacuum hose. This would have the side benefit of replacing hard plastic lines with flexible hose, which would allow for routing the vacuum lines higher up in the engine bay away from the turbo's heat.

The silicone tubing I'm thinking of using can be found here. Right now, my only concern with it vs. the hard lines is that I don't want to replace the hard lines only to have the hose collapse and pinch under vacuum.

Does this sound reasonable? I'm still planning on cleaning out the exhaust side of the turbo as well as the actuator shaft just to be on the safe side, but figure that this can't hurt as a preemptive measure.

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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 11:50 am 
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It should work since it is meant to be vacuum hose. At worst you waste about $20 and a little time. I would replace just a section first to see how it functions as far as collapsing before I did the whole thing.
I think it is reasonable.

I also had a small melted area of vacuum line on one CRD that occurred near the exhaust manifold. I repaired mine with a small piece of thick walled reusable drinking straw and some electrical tape.

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05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden


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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 3:26 pm 
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:idea: :idea:
It may have already been suggested, but what about some very small copper tubing?
Easy to bend, won't crack or collapse, and not affected by heat! Not expensive, can be bought at builders supply or hardware store.
Could always run it inside some rubber or plastic tubing to protect it from rubbing.

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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 6:07 pm 
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TKB4 wrote:
It should work since it is meant to be vacuum hose. At worst you waste about $20 and a little time. I would replace just a section first to see how it functions as far as collapsing before I did the whole thing.


This is pretty much what I was thinking. OK, ordered :mrgreen: We'll see what happens when it gets here in a day or two...

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OME / Clevis 2.5" Lift
JBA Lifted A-Arms
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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 6:09 pm 
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WWDiesel wrote:
:idea: :idea:
It may have already been suggested, but what about some very small copper tubing?
Easy to bend, won't crack or collapse, and not affected by heat! Not expensive, can be bought at builders supply or hardware store.
Could always run it inside some rubber or plastic tubing to protect it from rubbing.


Yep, Gordnado suggested it. I'm OK with the idea but want to give the silicone stuff a shot first - haven't used it for vacuum line before and am curious to see how it does.

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2005 KJ CRD Limited 4x4:
245/75R16 BFG TA KO2s
OME / Clevis 2.5" Lift
JBA Lifted A-Arms
IRO WJ Short Rear UCA/WWDiesel mount
Skid Row Skidplates
HDS Model 001 Thermostat (190°F)
Suncoast TC
Full Weeks Kit
Bosch 5V glow plugs
Hayden 2986 fan clutch / GM 11-blade fan
Samco / Sasquatch Intake Hoses
Carter in-tank pump
Provent 200
V6 Airbox


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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 8:58 pm 
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The Silicone should work fine, but your choice to try a bit section first is probably wise.

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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2019 10:47 pm 
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casm wrote:
The silicone tubing I'm thinking of using can be found here.
Thanks for sharing. My vac lines are kind of awkwardly situated with the provent installed in that area. This would be a great way to clean that up. Definitly let us know how it works.
You got it in red right? :P

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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 8:48 am 
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iakj11 wrote:
Thanks for sharing. My vac lines are kind of awkwardly situated with the provent installed in that area. This would be a great way to clean that up. Definitly let us know how it works.


Will do. FWIW, I, too, have the Provent vacuum line routing joy; installing that really showed up how less-than-flexible DCX' approach to those vacuum lines was. The (what I think is a) one-way valve on the line between the vacuum reservoir and the brake booster may end up being a bit of a hack job, but on the plus side at least the line itself should just be a straight shot.

Quote:
You got it in red right? :P


Nah, black. Gotta match the other silicone hoses for +5bhp. That'll be +10bhp when I replace the airbox-to-turbo hose with silicone, too :P

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OME / Clevis 2.5" Lift
JBA Lifted A-Arms
IRO WJ Short Rear UCA/WWDiesel mount
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Hayden 2986 fan clutch / GM 11-blade fan
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Last edited by casm on Tue Sep 10, 2019 1:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 10:34 am 
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Memos to self:

Tested lines for vacuum hold again, this time with engine 100% cold: modulator to actuator holds vacuum; brake booster to reservoir does not. Need to directly test if booster is holding vacuum.

There is a vacuum T-fitting at the firewall where the hard line from the booster to the reservoir turns towards the reservoir. The third leg of the T disappears into insulation at the firewall; suspect it may be for HVAC controls. Need to bypass T-fitting to check hard lines for vacuum hold.

Brake booster to vacuum reservoir: 7mm hose ID at booster end, 7mm ID at one-way valve inlet, 5mm ID at one-way valve outlet, 5mm ID at vacuum reservoir.

Vacuum modulator to turbo vane actuator: 7mm ID at modulator outlet, 5mm ID at actuator inlet.

Good thing Amazon hasn't shipped yet; need to cancel order and do some re-figuring on how I'm going to reduce the 7mm ID hose down to 5mm. Would prefer to not use inline couplers / buy two sets of vacuum hose, but likely don't have a choice. Still planning on eliminating the hard lines; just need to (re-) work out what that'll look like.

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2005 KJ CRD Limited 4x4:
245/75R16 BFG TA KO2s
OME / Clevis 2.5" Lift
JBA Lifted A-Arms
IRO WJ Short Rear UCA/WWDiesel mount
Skid Row Skidplates
HDS Model 001 Thermostat (190°F)
Suncoast TC
Full Weeks Kit
Bosch 5V glow plugs
Hayden 2986 fan clutch / GM 11-blade fan
Samco / Sasquatch Intake Hoses
Carter in-tank pump
Provent 200
V6 Airbox


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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2019 12:49 pm 
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Failure led to progress this morning. First, this happened between the vacuum modulator and the vane actuator while poking around:

Image

Which led to a trip to Autozone for emergency vacuum hose. They didn't have any 5mm hose, so had to go with 5.5mm (7/32"), which is definitely a tiny bit oversized - even with zip ties clamping it down as best as possible, it doesn't fit snugly at the actuator and (I suspect) may be leaking very slightly. 5mm would be better; 4.5mm might be best. That said, two things became apparent:

  • Responsiveness from idle to 1800rpm is noticeably improved. Not perfect, but certainly better. Soot is still there, but isn't worse than it was, at least.
  • A suck test on the new hose leads to very little feeling or sound of the vane actuator moving, so the suspicion that it needs a solid cleaning seems to be reasonable. Will know more once it's unbolted and I can see movement.

Also picked up some 7mm (9/32") hose to run from the booster to the reservoir, bypassing the T-fitting at the firewall. No change with that in place, but am still planning on replacing it with silicone since I'll be in there anyway.

Gotta love multi-layered problems. With the exception of the crappy fuel fill-up that likely preceded all of this, at least everything so far has fallen into the category of being a known (and eventually-occurring) problem on the CRD.

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2005 KJ CRD Limited 4x4:
245/75R16 BFG TA KO2s
OME / Clevis 2.5" Lift
JBA Lifted A-Arms
IRO WJ Short Rear UCA/WWDiesel mount
Skid Row Skidplates
HDS Model 001 Thermostat (190°F)
Suncoast TC
Full Weeks Kit
Bosch 5V glow plugs
Hayden 2986 fan clutch / GM 11-blade fan
Samco / Sasquatch Intake Hoses
Carter in-tank pump
Provent 200
V6 Airbox


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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 12:27 am 
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Why not use 3/16" hose or if you want smaller use 5/32 hose? :idea:
3/16 = 4.762mm / .1875 in.
5/32 = 3.968mm / .1562 in.
Should be available at the parts stores.

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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 5:53 am 
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I sense that you're beginning to understand why those of us that love these rigs almost never take them to commercial mechanics for problems like this. Most don't understand how they work, and They can't make money rooting around for simple problems. So they blindly throw parts at it, and recommend getting a different vehicle.

That isn't necessarily always bad advice, but once you can walk your way through a system in your mind, you can narrow down the list of things that might cause your symptoms, and the actual fix is rarely expensive, once it's discovered.
PITA... Yes
Inconvenient... yes sometimes
darn difficult... Usually, yes
but rarely expensive, and if the problem is common, there is usually SOMEONE who has come up with an ingenious fix that can be found somewhere in this forum. :frankie:

Then there are a few that are just mind-blowingly expensive, such as dropped valves, TB problems, etc., that a single component like a new head can cost more than a blueprinted GM crate motor, all by themselves, and preventive measures that seem excessive by themselves, when compared to the potential expense of a failed component (exhaust valves) are relatively cheap insurance.

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cams
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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 6:10 am 
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WWDiesel wrote:
Why not use 3/16" hose or if you want smaller use 5/32 hose? :idea:
3/16 = 4.762mm / .1875 in.
5/32 = 3.968mm / .1562 in.
Should be available at the parts stores.


I hear you. What it largely comes down to is something completely unrelated to any of this: having grown up in a country that went through a gradual-but-convoluted 20-year conversion to the metric system.

As dumb as it sounds, as a result of this I don't tend to think in terms of fractional inches for measurements. This means that when I walk into Autozone or the like, it's difficult to get my mind into dealing with SAE units because I 'know' that I need a certain size in millimetres.

Yep, it's a me problem :jester:

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245/75R16 BFG TA KO2s
OME / Clevis 2.5" Lift
JBA Lifted A-Arms
IRO WJ Short Rear UCA/WWDiesel mount
Skid Row Skidplates
HDS Model 001 Thermostat (190°F)
Suncoast TC
Full Weeks Kit
Bosch 5V glow plugs
Hayden 2986 fan clutch / GM 11-blade fan
Samco / Sasquatch Intake Hoses
Carter in-tank pump
Provent 200
V6 Airbox


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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 6:37 am 
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GordnadoCRD wrote:
I sense that you're beginning to understand why those of us that love these rigs almost never take them to commercial mechanics for problems like this. Most don't understand how they work, and They can't make money rooting around for simple problems. So they blindly throw parts at it, and recommend getting a different vehicle.


Nope, totally understood. I'm used to owning unicorn vehicles where you are your support for it (right now, the KJ's parked across from a Peugeot 505, which is far from being my first oddball - or even French - vehicle), but this one has been particularly exceptional at raising my frustration levels. It's no joke when I say that it's been easier to find Citroën parts in North America than it has KJ CRD parts at times.

Quote:
That isn't necessarily always bad advice, but once you can walk your way through a system in your mind, you can narrow down the list of things that might cause your symptoms, and the actual fix is rarely expensive, once it's discovered.
PITA... Yes
Inconvenient... yes sometimes
darn difficult... Usually, yes
but rarely expensive, and if the problem is common, there is usually SOMEONE who has come up with an ingenious fix that can be found somewhere in this forum. :frankie:


And having that support is key. I can generally figure things out, but when it comes to issues that are vehicle-specific (i.e., certain things that just tend to wear out or otherwise go south over time), that's where I start looking for sanity checks before really tearing into things, because that way lies throwing parts at the problem and I'm not a fan of that approach. The other side of the coin is that even when systems or components that are common between vehicles exhibit signs of failure, they may not fail in the same ways (or mask other issues, or raise false positives, etc.) as on other vehicles, so asking questions becomes key.

Having the vacuum line break when I jiggled it yesterday falls into this as well - in my head, I understand how the system operates. But until there's something that I can actually point at as a definitive cause or contributing factor, it's academic. Now it's ingrained. It's funny how much of a relief it was to hear the line actually crack; that was the moment where it all started coming together and I could see the problem completely systemically vs. the knowledge of what the potential causes were just being a bunch of recalled facts.

Quote:
Then there are a few that are just mind-blowingly expensive, such as dropped valves, TB problems, etc., that a single component like a new head can cost more than a blueprinted GM crate motor, all by themselves, and preventive measures that seem excessive by themselves, when compared to the potential expense of a failed component (exhaust valves) are relatively cheap insurance.


At that point, I suspect that the KJ would be a CRD-shaped bonfire somewhere :P

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2005 KJ CRD Limited 4x4:
245/75R16 BFG TA KO2s
OME / Clevis 2.5" Lift
JBA Lifted A-Arms
IRO WJ Short Rear UCA/WWDiesel mount
Skid Row Skidplates
HDS Model 001 Thermostat (190°F)
Suncoast TC
Full Weeks Kit
Bosch 5V glow plugs
Hayden 2986 fan clutch / GM 11-blade fan
Samco / Sasquatch Intake Hoses
Carter in-tank pump
Provent 200
V6 Airbox


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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 11:38 am 
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Very true Gordo, If enough CRDs still running or if non USA models use same vacuum line maybe ID/Sasquatch will come up with a set of silicone vacuum hoses or at least small sections ( say a foot long) of connectors to adapt from 5mm to 7mm etcand special connector nipples.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden


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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:29 pm 
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TKB4 wrote:
Very true Gordo, If enough CRDs still running or if non USA models use same vacuum line maybe ID/Sasquatch will come up with a set of silicone vacuum hoses or at least small sections ( say a foot long) of connectors to adapt from 5mm to 7mm etcand special connector nipples.

You can purchase high performance silicone vacuum hose on Amazon or a Summit Racing in many different sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/High-Performance ... B009PYDSD8

All that is needed to go from 5mm to 7mm is either a plastic or metal reducer adapter available at most any hardware store or builders supply like Lowes or Home Depot.

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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 8:12 am 
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WWDiesel wrote:
You can purchase high performance silicone vacuum hose on Amazon or a Summit Racing in many different sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/High-Performance ... B009PYDSD8

All that is needed to go from 5mm to 7mm is either a plastic or metal reducer adapter available at most any hardware store or builders supply like Lowes or Home Depot.


Yep, it's easy to find. The only reason I went with the rubber hose from Autozone was as a temporary fix - one set of the silicone hose didn't come with Prime shipping, so won't be here until next week. The rubber stuff was only bought to keep the KJ driveable in the meantime.

To be fair to the rubber hose, it is working. I'm just not sure how well it would hold up in the long term.

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2005 KJ CRD Limited 4x4:
245/75R16 BFG TA KO2s
OME / Clevis 2.5" Lift
JBA Lifted A-Arms
IRO WJ Short Rear UCA/WWDiesel mount
Skid Row Skidplates
HDS Model 001 Thermostat (190°F)
Suncoast TC
Full Weeks Kit
Bosch 5V glow plugs
Hayden 2986 fan clutch / GM 11-blade fan
Samco / Sasquatch Intake Hoses
Carter in-tank pump
Provent 200
V6 Airbox


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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 1:17 pm 
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casm wrote:
Yep, it's easy to find. The only reason I went with the rubber hose from Autozone was as a temporary fix - one set of the silicone hose didn't come with Prime shipping, so won't be here until next week. The rubber stuff was only bought to keep the KJ driveable in the meantime.
To be fair to the rubber hose, it is working. I'm just not sure how well it would hold up in the long term.

Did it solve your issue?
and
this is a vacuum hose connector adapter kit like I was referring to. (picture)
Both Autozone and Amazon both have the hard plastic as well as the soft rubber elbow vacuum hose reducer adapters.

Image
Image

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Carter Intank-pmp
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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 2:37 pm 
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WWDiesel wrote:
Did it solve your issue?


Not totally, though there has been a mild improvement in terms of the sluggishness between idle and 1800rpm. At this point, it looks as though the next step (besides replacing the vacuum lines with silicone hose) will be hitting the exhaust side of the turbo with oven cleaner and also cleaning the vane actuator. We'll see where it sits after that; hoping to be able to do the turbo & actuator cleaning this weekend.

Quote:
this is a vacuum hose connector adapter kit like I was referring to.
Both Autozone and Amazon both have the hard plastic as well as the soft rubber elbow vacuum hose reducer adapters.


Yep. And it looks as though I may have been wrong about the need for the reducers.

One change I will be making will be to clamp as many of the hoses down as I can. Really perplexed by the fact that that was an area where Chrysler decided to save 4.3¢ per vehicle... :roll:

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2005 KJ CRD Limited 4x4:
245/75R16 BFG TA KO2s
OME / Clevis 2.5" Lift
JBA Lifted A-Arms
IRO WJ Short Rear UCA/WWDiesel mount
Skid Row Skidplates
HDS Model 001 Thermostat (190°F)
Suncoast TC
Full Weeks Kit
Bosch 5V glow plugs
Hayden 2986 fan clutch / GM 11-blade fan
Samco / Sasquatch Intake Hoses
Carter in-tank pump
Provent 200
V6 Airbox


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 Post subject: Re: Hoping this isn't a sign of a failing fuel pump
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2019 2:10 pm 
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Another couple of days, more incremental progress. Still not quite 100%, but nudging that way. It appears as though swatting flies in the vicinity of the turbo is gradually paying off.

Yesterday morning: did a lazy cleaning of the turbo vane actuator arm. Shot some PB Blaster into a length of plastic tubing, worked the tubing back around the actuator to where I could feel the arm, and let the PB Blaster run down onto it. Worked it onto the arm's thread by hand as best I could, then let it sit for a couple of hours to work in while the Jeep was still cold. Did a suck test; got a tiny bit of movement. Drove it around some yesterday; noted a minuscule improvement.

USPS beat Amazon's delivery estimate on the remaining vacuum hose, getting it here late yesterday afternoon as opposed to next week as predicted.

This morning: replaced most (more on that below) of the vacuum lines between the brake booster and turbo vane actuator. Did a suck test on the vane actuator; there was a surprising amount of movement of the arm as well as audible movement of the diaphragm. This a huge improvement over where it was 24 hours ago. Below 1800rpm, there's another noticeable (but not total) improvement in performance and soot. Over 2000rpm, getting pushed back into the seat under throttle is likewise improved.

Still need to clean out the exhaust side of the turbo; will get to that during the week.

Notes on the vacuum line replacement:

Brake booster to one-way valve: 7mm ID.
One-way valve to T-fitting at firewall: 7mm ID.
T-Fitting to one-way valve at vacuum reservoir: 7mm ID.
Vacuum modulator to turbo vane actuator: 5mm ID.

From the one-way valve to the vacuum reservoir, the ID of the hose is smaller than 5mm. Need to measure that as well as the hoses interconnecting the vacuum reservoir and vacuum modulator; their ID is also smaller than 5mm. Suspect they may all be the same.

5 feet of hose is enough to do everything between the brake booster and one-way valve at the vacuum reservoir; about 2 feet works to go from the vacuum modulator to the vane actuator. Use vacuum hose clamps at all ends to be safe.

_________________
2005 KJ CRD Limited 4x4:
245/75R16 BFG TA KO2s
OME / Clevis 2.5" Lift
JBA Lifted A-Arms
IRO WJ Short Rear UCA/WWDiesel mount
Skid Row Skidplates
HDS Model 001 Thermostat (190°F)
Suncoast TC
Full Weeks Kit
Bosch 5V glow plugs
Hayden 2986 fan clutch / GM 11-blade fan
Samco / Sasquatch Intake Hoses
Carter in-tank pump
Provent 200
V6 Airbox


Last edited by casm on Sun Sep 15, 2019 4:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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