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 Post subject: Re: Oil recomendation (I know it's been asked)
PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 9:33 pm
Posts: 1092
Location: Jackson,TN
All oils SAE rated have an implied HTHS number weather listed or not without looking it up thin the 15w-40 is about 4.6 or 4.7. There is always a give and take between properties such as fuel efficiency vs wear. The HTHS number was originally used to help predict crank bearing wear.

I believe its more important to change oil at closer intervals . I believe the oils we are talking about have differences but the soot etc is probably more important . On that note I am surprised more CRD owners don't use bypass oil filter systems with much better filtering which may well be of even more benefit.

I only know of Mass-Hole and couple of others that do. I have installed this on one CRD and plan to get them on my sons CRDs soon also.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden


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 Post subject: Re: Oil recomendation (I know it's been asked)
PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 10:05 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2019 10:05 am
Posts: 289
Location: Kennewick, wa
One of the issues with our oil system is it is VERY long, and this combined with lower tech oil that doesn’t flow as fast will lead to less flow, and as we all know flow is more important than pressure. An engines requirements are 10 psi per 1k revolutions. With flow and the proper oil it will keep the spot in suspension and keep it from destroying the bearings as can be seen on similar engines. The egr soot loafing the oil is a major problem, but the other is that they gave a different spec for the oil in this country then the rest of the world as in this country EVERYTHING is driven by emissions!

The T6 will work and most people won’t hang on too a Jeep long enough to see the differences, but for the long run the better flow and high tech property’s of the leichtlauf oil will make it last longer... in the last 2 years I bought 14 of these Jeeps so I can say that like most vehicles people only will keep them for an average of 7 -10 years or about 150k-200k miles. Same as any other vehicle, I see many people at my shop selling perfectly good vehicles because they want something newer. I am the exception to the rule, I have an upgraded and rebuilt transmission and engine on my shelf along with a t case and drive lines ect for whom ever in my family needs them so we are keeping ours for at least 500k, I am hoping for 1000000 but we don’t honestly drive enough to get there...

I have a fleet customer who used 5w30 in his 02-09 6.0 Silverado HD’s and we switched him over to the leichtlauf and he saw the difference immediately, he dropped about 10lbs oil pressure because the flow rate was better... remember pressure is just the resistance to flow! He also picked up about .25-.5 mpg out of it... those sneaky German sensored word and their engineering, you would almost say think they invented synthetic oil... oh wait they did


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 Post subject: Re: Oil recomendation (I know it's been asked)
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 5:22 pm 
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Posts: 335
I'm pretty sure that's inaccurate.... modern synthetic oil was created by Standard Oil in good ol' Indiana about 100 years ago. Their work was based on the team of chemists Friedel & Crafts, who had a primitive synthetic hydrocarbon 50 years before that. Friedel was French and Crafts was American. The Germans get credit for ester-based (PAO) oil, but that work was a derivation of previous efforts.

Edit: It is worth nothing that buying European oil (Motul, Lubromoly, etc.) has the advantage of ensuring you get "real" Group IV/PAO synthetic oil. In the US, it's legal to sell hydrocracked Group III oil as "synthetic," even though it doesn't meet the classical definition. Thank you Castrol! That said, the functional difference between G3 and G4 synthetics is debatable. You can't truly tell the difference, even under a microscope... which is why Castrol won their lawsuit.


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 Post subject: Re: Oil recomendation (I know it's been asked)
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 6:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2019 4:40 pm
Posts: 70
Location: Columbia, TN
My66dodge wrote:
While it is a good oil like the other is doesn’t meet the requirements of other engines like ours with DOHC HIGH SPEED TURBO DIESELS, the engines I see it meets are pushrod and large LOW SPEED diesels,


I find this funny.
Too keep from dropping exhaust valves it's recommended to keep RPMs low on the CRD.
Meanwhile the 6.6 Dmax can see 4500+ rpm during grade braking.

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2006 GMC LBZ


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 Post subject: Oil recomendation (I know it's been asked)
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 9:37 pm 
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Location: Kennewick, wa
In my family we drive them hard and never have issues but then again I am of the opinion that work rockers is the leading cause of dropped valves, every one I have seen with a dropped valve had trashed rockers and I have done a few rocker jobs where the valves got hung on the rocker as it starts to jam sideways

As far as the Duramax rpm... http://www.duramaxhub.com/l5p.html
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 Post subject: Re: Oil recomendation (I know it's been asked)
PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 10:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 20, 2015 2:11 pm
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Location: markham, ontario
My66dodge wrote:
In my family we drive them hard and never have issues but then again I am of the opinion that work rockers is the leading cause of dropped valves, every one I have seen with a dropped valve had trashed rockers and I have done a few rocker jobs where the valves got hung on the rocker as it starts to jam sideways

As far as the Duramax rpm... http://www.duramaxhub.com/l5p.html
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in my opinion regarding the dropped valves issue was just a bad batch. nothing else.


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 Post subject: Re: Oil recomendation (I know it's been asked)
PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 1:35 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2019 4:40 pm
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Location: Columbia, TN
My66dodge wrote:
As far as the Duramax rpm... http://www.duramaxhub.com/l5p.html

What they don't show is the up shift RPM while grade braking. Much higher than listed RPM.

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2006 GMC LBZ


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 Post subject: Re: Oil recomendation (I know it's been asked)
PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 9:19 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:43 am
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Location: Green Cove Springs FL
On the CRD, the max on the tach is 5000.
Redline starts at 4000.
There’s really no need to spin it above 3000.
And I rarely get above 2500.
I drive mine hard too and would never be accused of holding up traffic.

It’s a small diesel that does what diesels do best. Low end torque.
A 5.7L gasser would have to hit at least 4000 to achieve the same torque as the R428 at 2000.

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Yeti stage 4 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses.
Aftermarket intercooler
Fixed Flex Fan and modified factory 190F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.


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 Post subject: Re: Oil recomendation (I know it's been asked)
PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 12:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 9:33 pm
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Location: Jackson,TN
I know for a fact that my dropped valve at around 200k was not from worn rockers. I had replaced head gasket added ARPs and put all new rockers in a few thousand miles before the dropped valve and the rockers I removed were still in good shape and were the originals. I removed the new style rockers and put them in the next engine I put ARPs on.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden


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 Post subject: Re: Oil recomendation (I know it's been asked)
PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 1:37 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:57 pm
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Location: Boise, Idaho
I can definitely see how worn rockers (much less cooling air flow) could contribute to the valves breaking. Add some egr goop and you've got one hot exhaust valve.

This reminds me of VW BEW engines, run the wrong oil and the cams are shot in under 200k.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete


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