I did the work, this was the second timing belt I'd changed on this vehicle. Also did water pump.

Got the cover off tonight. Only 2 lifters survived but it appears all valves are sound. Injectors all look good.

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The fuel savings from my engine modifications should pay for those modifications in about 250,000 miles

well relatively good news. Make sure and turn the crank several rotations at least 6 after initial tensioning of timing belt it essentially always needs retentioning at least once after a few turns. With tensioner bolt still tight sounds like belt just got more slack and came off.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

When I did mine I ran it a few seconds and then reset & torqued. I also did it per the FSM and not as the threads show i.e. the needle past the notch - not within the "gun site" like it seems like it should be. Time will tell...

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2005 Liberty CRD. New rockers, exhaust valves; Provent, EGR block & butterfly delete & V6 air box at 100K

1998 XJ 4.0L, 2" lift

First Jeep: 1962 Willys CJ-3B

Agree, I run mine after retensiong 2 or 3 times and I always tension it more (needle to right) of the window and then run and try to get needle after running to far right of window.

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

So here's the conclusion to the saga:

New tensioner worked itself loose (well, failed because the bolt was still tight) which of course allowed the timing belt to slip behind one idler and the entire thing incinerated itself. Pistons contacted valves, lifters did their job and broke. Since the valves all felt good I got lifters and timing parts and put it all back together again. Runs like a champ. The lifters worked / failed as designed.

Lessons learned:
1. I'm pretty sure the tensioner that failed was economy aftermarket parts...I can't remember. But I know I didn't get it from IDParts. Get your parts from IDParts. Don't even bother looking elsewhere you'll regret it.
2. Getting the intake cover back on is not easy. The manual suggests using a couple long studs, definitely do this. It took me 3 tries to get the thing dropped perfectly straight on and not pop a lifter out of place. Super aggravating.
3. This is not a job for the weak of heart or low of patience. Getting all the crap out of the way, esp the wiring, is a PITA.
4. All in all, this is a well designed engine and it's designed to be worked on. Daimler just mounted too much stuff around it.

I've been running Mobil 1 European Formula 0w-40 as long as I can remember, and there was absolutely no build-up on the top of the head and the cams looked perfect. Happy about that.

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The fuel savings from my engine modifications should pay for those modifications in about 250,000 miles