Liberty CRD Hard to Start When Cold

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 212

Bad noises = really bad things, LOL. I like that.

No bad noises too bad so far. Though when the AC runs it makes some crazy sounding noises but seems to keep blowing cold lol. Maybe bearing who knows what.

And this hiss noise! Ugh. I have replaced all the hoses BTW high pressure and suction side with silicone hoses. This got rid of the engine light.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun May 10, 2020 10:32 pm

jagster936 wrote:

Bad noises = really bad things, LOL. I like that.

That can be said about most anything mechanical that makes "bad or very unusual noises".... :wink:

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon May 11, 2020 11:30 am

I have never had a problem with master cylinder on 4 different ones with total of about 800,000 miles between them now. One did have a leak in line going to right from caliper from rust which started pretty slow then later got massive just replaced that small section of line on both sides .

I would strongly consider taking the advice to go ahead and change the belt and water pump etc. This is an INTERFERANCE ENGINE so if the belt breaks or just gets a little too stretched and skips a few teeth you hopefully will only break a few rockers and if the rockers dont break as designed then you will bust pistons etc making it more economical to replace with a used engine if you can find a good one. Easier to change glow plugs with more access then too they run around $80 a set. This is drastically different from a timing belt break on a non interference engine.

Believe me you do not want to even have to replace the rockers unless they are very worn its adds at least 12 hours of work for a first timer to the Timing Belt job and maybe as many as 20 hours not to mention the rockers etc for over $400 with gaskets. (We won't even talk about the other things you should do to Bulletproof if you do have to remove the valvecover. The Timing Belt job alone for a first timer is probably around 12 hours. For experienced DIYers around 7 hours. Save yourself a lot of grief and do the timing belt job very soon like NOW. You can check out the intercooler at the same time if you want to but bet if it doesn't have silicone hoses its most likely a hose leak.

Here is a pic of what a broken glow plug tip does to the head see all the peck marks . On full compression position there is only a few thousands clearance between the valves and the piston notice that the valves are actually recessed above the head surface a bit. Its just luck whether or not you get worse engine damage when a tip breaks off. I had one engine with 140K that had 3 broken tips and didn't damage it but still a chance you dont want to take.

https://imgur.com/AjZpmGN

In this pick you see the three tips that were broken off to varying degrees one with whole tip off compared to non broken or replacement ones

https://imgur.com/fkaWRq9

Your Jeep has made it this far why take a chance for about 12 hours work and less than $500 when it is about 8 years late already? If I bought your jeep now I wouldn't run it at all after loaded and unloaded on trailer without doing this first its very cheap insurance!!

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon May 11, 2020 11:37 am

sorry didn't see you had replaced hoses with silicone in that case check under clamps also a few including my son had the AC hoses rub on the intake side. He caught his before leak caused and wrapped the line. At least 2 others didn't catch it in time.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon May 11, 2020 1:02 pm

TKB4 wrote:

sorry didn't see you had replaced hoses with silicone in that case check under clamps also a few including my son had the AC hoses rub on the intake side. He caught his before leak caused and wrapped the line. At least 2 others didn't catch it in time.

Another place to check:
I found the IAP (air intake pressure sensor) connector had starting rubbing a spot on the right side boost hose as shown in Picture 1
I relocated the IAP sensor to the top of the air filter box to stop the rubbing, see Picture 2

Picture 1

Picture 2

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

^ I do the exact same relocation with that sensor. Works like a charm.

jagster936 · **Joined:** Sun Aug 04, 2019 3:06 pm **Posts:** 212

Hmm, I'll have to check into the brakes, I don't know, def doesn't do a firm skid/antilock kick in like it should

I fully understand interference engines and what that means. Still the chances are pretty low. How many under 100k timing belts have snapped on these jeeps? Would be good to know. I'll do glow plugs likely with the belt and pump when I feel like spending money on it.

Rockers is on list too...but probably well after 100 or 150k. While in there will do the head studs and all that.

I pressured up the intercooler to 10+ PSI before the ghetto rigged connections blew off in my face across the area..lol. Perhaps it is leaking at the sensor or some other mystery location. All hoses are silicone at this point and are new. Hissing has been here since I got the machine. No codes though don't forget. Originally with crap hoses it had underboost, which makes sense.

Crazy and scary glow plugs, I'll add to list during the T belt.

lol isn't that cheap, but I know. For me it's a 4th vehicle and isn't critical stuff. I'll do it though! Would feel better around 100k as it's well worth it then. I'm a gambler?

The clamps I'm always very thorough when apply and use mirrors to make sure on correctly. hmmm

I don't think's its rubbing but I'll double check..the silicone hoses are nearly new. Hissing was still present immeidately after replacing.

Thx for advice! The woman may not even like the vehicle and I'll loose my excuse to invest in it..but we shall see. I think it's a very nice SUV for 9k ( i got it for at 70k or whatever miles..I thought it was pretty good deal).

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Sun May 17, 2020 8:20 am

To the OP: Did you ever figure out which glow plugs you have installed in your CRD? They can be identified by a colored ring up on top where the wiring connects. I believe the original 7V ceramics were White and the updated 5V steel ones are Red.

Also, GDE used to be able to modify the TCM programming to adjust where the TC locks up, I had them raise mine up to 75 mph, works great for towing and general driving.

I switched to the 5V plugs a few years back and instantly noticed poorer starting performance. I have tried with the 5V & 7V programming and they perform about the same. When the engine is cold it will crank for a few extra seconds before starting, but pops off right away when warm. Seems like the delay could be caused by a fuel delivery issue, but the Flash Point of Diesel is >125°F, so proper glow plug operation is critical. I have ~166k on mine, so I suppose the fuel pump is not as tight as it once was.

Does anyone have a diagram showing all the components in the fuel delivery system from the fuel tank to injector? The FSM has some information, but no diagram. Its interesting how the fuel pump has a "charge" pump built into it before the high pressure pump, they even say this is the reason an electric in-tank pump was not used. I recently purchased an electric in-tank pump, hope to get it installed soon.

GDE was working on an "improved" 5V glow plug program before the EPA messed everything up, I'm a little bummed I didn't get that update.

Liberty CRD Hard to Start When Cold

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