CRD Mechanic Needed

Retirednotdead · **Joined:** Sat May 23, 2020 12:53 pm **Posts:** 9

I believe I have a blown head gasket on a 2005 jeep liberty CRD. I am loosing coolant. When I did the gas test in the overflow reservoir it turned the color to indicate a blown gasket.

I fear it will be hard to find someone to work on it because there are so few of the Jeep diesels and mechanic who knows them. Are there members in Denver Colorado area who have experience and would like to take on this job of replacing the head gasket?

Your web site has been a great source of information. I am considering doing the job myself. Not sure I want to purchase the tools needed to do the job and then never have a use for them again.

Any suggestion would be helpful.

Thanks,

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sat May 23, 2020 9:03 pm

Check the Sasquatch page it has a map of mechanics that know these engines, if you were closer I would tell you to drag it to my shop... but the Tri cities wa is a bit far for you to come...

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Retirednotdead · **Joined:** Sat May 23, 2020 12:53 pm **Posts:** 9

Thanks My66dodge, I was not aware there was a list of mechanics. I will check it out. I appreciate the update. Yes, your shop is a bit far away.

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

Good call on recognising that there aren't exactly shops on every corner that can work on these vehicles, but let's back up a bit here.

Everything you've said re: head gasket issues makes sense, but it's worth going over how you came to that conclusion. Is there any white smoke from the exhaust, and how much coolant is being consumed per <insert number of miles here>?

Not saying that your diagnosis is wrong, but it is worth double-checking.

If you're planning on DIYing this, fine - but there's a ton of bulletproofing that's worth doing while you're in there, especially if you don't know when they were last done. Timing belt, tensioner, water pump, possibly rockers, etc.

What's the mileage on your CRD? This can help with coming up with a plan of attack.

Retirednotdead · **Joined:** Sat May 23, 2020 12:53 pm **Posts:** 9

Junkie, The Jeep has 133K miles on it. I got it from a lady last summer who had listed the following;
Replaced in last 18 mos:
Timing belt at 120k miles
Water pump
EGR valve and cooler assembly
Thermostat
Intercooler

I do not drive it often since I am retired. I would say i have to top off the coolant reservoir about every 100 miles. It seem it had gotten worse. I see no other leaks. I do see white smoke coming from it when i first start driving. There also seems to be an exhaust leak that can be heard and a strong smell when I start it up in the garage. It seems to run fine. Hard to start in the cold weather.

I have considered the rockers to be replace along with the Head Gasket and the glow plugs.

My66dodge · **Posted:** Sun May 24, 2020 9:34 am

As a professional mechanic I can tell you I wouldn’t sell the job any other way, new head gasket kit, new rockers, new 5v steel glow plugs, are head studs, and new fluids. I don’t give choices I just do what’s right and over the years I have seen way too many times where trying to save a buck cost more in the end... did a Cummins serpentine belt a few years back and the darn thing came off in 6 months and we redid the job with a new tensioner and it lasted a time... trying to do what the customer thought was right and save him a few bucks cost him more in the end... that’s why to this day I sell what the car needs and if not we just don’t do the job, other shops may be willing to sell Chinese parts (oreillys) but we uphold a higher standard!

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casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

OK, that sounds like a head gasket. Don't want to make a final call on that without having seen the Jeep in person, but from the way you're describing the symptoms they seem about right.

My66dodge is absolutely right in saying that if you're going to have to tear it down to replace the head gasket, do everything else while you're in there. On these engines, that means the head gasket, head studs, rockers, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, idlers, and serpentine belt tensioner as well as various other gaskets, etc. You may be able to keep the water pump that's in there, and checking the valves is worth it as well.

Definitely swap to the 5V metallic glow plugs regardless - chances are the factory 7V ceramic ones are still in there, and you do not want of those to break off an end into a cylinder; this has been known to happen. No reprogramming is necessary to run the 5V plugs.

If you plan on keeping the CRD for the long term, it's worth it. We just had everything listed above except the head gasket done to ours last weekend, and while I was anything but keen to run up the credit cards, this isn't a great time to be looking at alternative vehicles and potentially end up getting into something else with an unknown history. At close to 160,000 miles on ours, we at least know the last 55,000 miles or so of its life and what has been done to it in that time.

One member here you may want to contact (use the email option rather than PMs; the PM system here is not the most functional) is geordi. He's the resident travelling CRD mechanic, and did the work on ours. 500 miles later, I'm very pleased with how it turned out.

Retirednotdead · **Joined:** Sat May 23, 2020 12:53 pm **Posts:** 9

Thanks for all the advise. Yes I agree it best to replace what is known to have issues while it is opened up. No sense in having to tear it all down again. Or have issue soon after the repair.

My one concern I have is the work that was previously done. I do not know if the timing belt tensioner and idlers were replaced with the Timing Belt work and do not feel I can find out. So they will need a good inspection.

I had a newer CRD in the past. Got rid of it to get my wife a better car. Love her new car. Really missed the CRD. So I bought this one last year. Should of been more careful with what I was looking for it. It is still a great Jeep and I hope I can keep it a long time. I have had 2 Cheerokees and 3 Libbies over the past 36 years. Guess I like Jeeps.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun May 24, 2020 1:27 pm

Agree , do yourself a favor and bulletproof it while you are there . You might as well just replace all the timing belt parts again too. There is no extra labor to do that . Also close off egr system with plate or other way. There are really no particular special tools needed most of the time except the pins for cam shafts and tool to hold cam gears still while removing them. A kit for this is about $130 I think or you can rent them. The only other thing I ever used is a tool to remove injectors and probably didn't really need this.

Sir Sam is in the Denver area and he may be willing to do the work for you but haven't seen posts in a while from him you may want to email and pm him. He is the one who wrote the newbie guide.

Another thing: you referred to Casm as junkie. the newbie and junkie and Addict has to do with the number of posts that member has published on LOST.

If you decide to do this yourself and you do all the upgrades plan on it taking 30-40 hours of labor and about $2000-$2500 for parts and services such as head cleaning replacing at least exhaust valves, but after that you should have another 150-200K out of the engine with the normal maintenance.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun May 24, 2020 7:10 pm

Thank you very much for the review Cam (Casm) - glad to hear that you are enjoying your CRD again!

Retirednotdead - Denver is not a problem, I've been out there a number of times. I'd be happy to discuss the process with you and take it on if you are so inclined. My service is a complete package, for a head gasket you would be looking at the Level 3 and get ALL the upgrades in one go, bulletproofing the engine for at least the next 200k miles (100 on the belt) and the following is replaced:

Valves, head gasket, ARP studs (upgrade), all new rockers (new design), glow plugs (upgrade), stage 1 and 2 EGR delete (upgrade), coolant bypass (upgrade), various seals and gaskets, complete timing belt and water pump kit. Optional extras include a new alternator pulley, fan clutch, or thermostat. This is a two-day job even for me, for a first-timer I'd plan on the engine being disassembled for around 2 weeks if you are working steadily but not continuously.

I'll send you an email through the forum (you can also do the same with the button below) and we can go from there.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue May 26, 2020 9:28 am

If you dont want to do it yourself. Geordi is a great resource consider it seriously and be there and watch what he does to get more familiar with the engine to do TB etc next time yourself. If you do it , included in those long hours are several of frustration of being hard to get one or 2 bolts out or dropping a bolt in the frame etc generally figuring something out , forgetting to order something you needed. A crick in your neck/headache etc.

WHATEVER YOU DO DO NOT TAKE IT TO A DEALER OR EVEN A DIESEL MECHANIC THAT HAS NOT DEALT WITH THIS ENGINE !!

krb · **Posted:** Wed May 27, 2020 7:30 am

It's not that hard a job actually, if you are already used to wrenching. Just intimidating mainly.

I did it about 1,000 miles ago. The only "specialty" tools I had to buy was the set up to lock the cam gears and shafts. I already had a homemade "cam wrench".

I used the instructions in the stickies and asked a lot of questions here. My main complaint is it is tight and compact compared to what I'm used to working on. Had to use mirrors a time or two. Still searching for my 13mm socket...

I haven't added up the receipts yet (scared to) but I did it all while apart including glow plugs. Only thing I had to draw the line on was studs.

Good luck if you decide to try it.

Retirednotdead · **Joined:** Sat May 23, 2020 12:53 pm **Posts:** 9

After review of the posts and thinking more about what needs to be done I have decided to do this myself. I have used a wrench or two in my time and feel that this is not beyond my ability.

Geordi did offer to help. It is wonderful there are people like him that are out there to provide the support.

The input I have received and all the information shared on Lost Jeep have been great. Your web site has been a great source of information. It a big reason I like the jeep so much. That is beside the Torque.

Thanks everyone

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed May 27, 2020 9:30 am

Exactly, its not that hard but it is very frustrating at times mainly because of the tight quarters and simply not having done it before. Its not even something I want to do again after the first time (even though I have had 5 different heads off). Ay least now I am faster and am confident in about how long it will take me.

I understand cost savings but if I could possibly afford it I would definitely use the ARP studs and depending on how you order parts in some of the bundle like head gasket and ARP studs you can save a lot on the ARPS. Alternatively if you can't get ARP s now plan on removing intake next time you do the TB and do it about 70K and replace the studs one by one then hopefully the standard studs will last that long.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed May 27, 2020 2:54 pm

And don't forget the exhaust valves need to be replaced at some point!

Retirednotdead · **Joined:** Sat May 23, 2020 12:53 pm **Posts:** 9

I am on planning to replaced the studs with the ARP brand. The Exhaust valves I was not sure. Will see when I get it broken open. I have received multiple messages they need to be done. So I have them high on my list.

krb · **Posted:** Fri May 29, 2020 6:51 am

Good deal. Keep us posted and we (actually they) will talk you through it.

I've got about 1,000 miles on mine now and feel pretty confident.

Retirednotdead · **Joined:** Sat May 23, 2020 12:53 pm **Posts:** 9

This to let you know I am making progress. But ran into an issue. I decided to go with a new cylinder head along with the new head gasket and other associated parts.

I have run into a problem with the new cylinder head. I went to screw in the coolant tube from the EGR valve into the cylinder head. The hole was too large. The tube for the coolant return will screw into the other coolant port just fine. On the original cylinder head both coolant ports are the same size. It looks like someone may have enlarged the coolant return port. I have no idea what the tread size of the enlarged port. Or if there is a tube which will screw into it that exists. I have emailed IDParts on the issue with the new cylinder head and will follow up with them on Monday.

Has anyone ran into this situation before that might know what I need to do to resolve this.

You should be aware that Colorado has strict emission laws. So I am not removing the EGR valve or modifying any emission parts.

Retirednotdead · **Joined:** Sat May 23, 2020 12:53 pm **Posts:** 9

Okay, now I feel like a fool. It finally occurred to me that there might be the coolant tube which fits the block included in the kit. Sure enough, I found it in the kit. I am good to go. Hope this did not cause anyone trouble.

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

krb wrote:

It's not that hard a job actually, if you are already used to wrenching. Just intimidating mainly.

I did it about 1,000 miles ago. The only "specialty" tools I had to buy was the set up to lock the cam gears and shafts. I already had a homemade "cam wrench".

I used the instructions in the stickies and asked a lot of questions here. My main complaint is it is tight and compact compared to what I'm used to working on. Had to use mirrors a time or two. Still searching for my 13mm socket...

I haven't added up the receipts yet (scared to) but I did it all while apart including glow plugs. Only thing I had to draw the line on was studs.

Good luck if you decide to try it.

Easy job !!!! Just a bit laborious.

I would advise using the "real" tool for the job !

Good luck to you !

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