Help - My CRD died on highway traveling 45 to 50 mph

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jun 14, 2020 7:49 pm

HELP

My other CRD died on the highway while traveling at 45 to 50 mph.
ENGINE TURNS BUT NO START. I had it towed home.

Here are the codes:

B10B3-VISCOUS/CABIN HEATER RELAY CONTROL OPEN CIRCUIT
P0091-FUEL QUANTITY SOLENOID SHORT TO GROUND
P0651-SENSOR SUPPLY 2 VOLTAGE TOO HIGH AND TOO LOW
P2295-FUEL PRESSURE SOLENOID SHORT TO GROUND
P0190-FUEL PRESS SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE TOO LOW

Here's what I've done so far:

Replaced battery with a new 800cca, brand new
Replaced crankshaft position sensor, brand new
Replaced Alternator with a used one from another vehicle I had, it worked fine when pulled
Replaced fuel rail with a used one from another vehicle I had, it worked fine when pulled
Replaced FUEL PRESS REG. PUMP, with a used one from another vehicle I had, it worked fine when pulled
Replaced body control module, with a used one from another vehicle I had, it worked fine when pulled

Cleaned all grounds and secured all the connectors.

Checked all fuses and all are OK.
Checked all relays and all are OK

Turns but no start.

A little help would be appreciated, any Ideas?

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sun Jun 14, 2020 8:25 pm

You have two codes....Fuel Quantity Solenoid and Fuel pressure solenoid.....both saying short to ground....I would be looking there.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jun 14, 2020 11:36 pm

Based on the codes you listed, you have a power to ground short somewhere in the wiring harness or at a sensor.
I would start taking a very close look at the wiring harnesses and look for any rubbed or chafed wires touching a ground somewhere.
Look closely behind the alternator where the wiring harness passes behind the alternator bracket and goes over the top of the engine.
There have been reports by some others on LOST of finding a shorted wire to ground in this area.
It may be one of the 5v power supplies going to one of the sensors listed in the codes.
Is it the 05 or the 06?
If 06, you need to check the wiring harness where it passes behind the fuel filter head assembly, there is a know issue there.
Get a good digital volt meter and start reading the volts at the sensors using the FSM wiring diagrams to determine which colored wire is the 5v power supply to the sensor.
Most sensors have three wires, one a ground, one the 5v power supply, and the other the actual signal being supplied back to the ECM from the sensor.

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Jun 15, 2020 4:42 am

OK, got it.
I will be checking those areas.

BTW, this is happening on a 2005 CRD.

Thank you

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 15, 2020 8:15 am

Also consider the Front Control Module and agree with above.

Question: Did the CEL come on when engine quit running?
If not was it on before (like weeks) the engine quit running?
If the CEL wasn't on before and didn't come on after it quit running had you checked for codes in the recent past? (I guess just for the heck of it)

You might also do a battery draw test to determine if there is a significant draw and if so isolate the circuit involved.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Jun 16, 2020 11:02 pm

TKB4 wrote:

Also consider the Front Control Module and agree with above.

Question:
1. Did the CEL come on when engine quit running?
If not
2. was it on before (like weeks) the engine quit running?

3. If the CEL wasn't on before and didn't come on after it quit running had you checked for codes in the recent past? (I guess just for the heck of it)

4. You might also do a battery draw test to determine if there is a significant draw and if so isolate the circuit involved.

The Front Control module was replaced with a used one.

1. Yes, the cell did come on when the engine quit running.
2. The engine had previously died on another occasion and I found two chaffed wires that led to the fuel rail sensor in the back of the fuel rail. I fixed those. They were arcing. I also found one other chaffed wired behind the fuel head, i fixed that one also. i have not found any other chaffed wire.
3. I did check for codes at that time but I didn't write them down and i can't remember what they were.
4. I have yet to learn how to do a battery draw test.

I shot some either in the intake to see if it fired up, ... It did not fire up.

The engine just turns but does not fire up.

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

You might want to check the ASD relay too !

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Jun 17, 2020 5:49 am

PZKW108 wrote:

You might want to check the ASD relay too !

done that.. thanks

Billybob · **Posted:** Wed Jun 17, 2020 10:14 am

WolverineFW wrote:

You have two codes....Fuel Quantity Solenoid and Fuel pressure solenoid.....both saying short to ground....I would be looking there.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

Yeah I would believe that this would be the best place to start!

Have a good look at the wires going from these two components....trace them all the way to the ECM looking out for shorts to engine/chassis :wink:

Otherwise we need to climb further into the wiring!

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 17, 2020 11:42 am

Here is a link to how to track down a parasitic draw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Jun 18, 2020 3:32 am

TKB4 wrote:

Here is a link to how to track down a parasitic draw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0

Thanks .... I used this procedure and found that a parasitic draw does not exist. I do not have a parasitic draw.

Billybob · **Posted:** Thu Jun 18, 2020 3:45 am

Nice video but only relevant if battery goes flat overnight.

The OP has a Jeep that turns over nicely but does not fire. :wink:

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Jun 18, 2020 5:13 pm

Just to be sure, I need confirmation of what the solenoids look like and their location.

1. Fuel quantity solenoid - Is this the solenoid that is located behind the bosch fuel pump?

2. Fuel pressure solenoid - Is this the solenoid that is located at the back of the fuel rail?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jun 18, 2020 9:47 pm

racertracer wrote:

Just to be sure, I need confirmation of what the solenoids look like and there location.
1. Fuel quantity solenoid - Is this the solenoid that is located behind the bosch fuel pump?
2. Fuel pressure solenoid - Is this the solenoid that is located at the back of the fuel rail?

What I have on File:
Fuel Pressure Solenoid 5159964AA 0281002705? at end of fuel rail
0281002507 VM 45962073F
GM 12611872 0281006019

Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor 5159963AA on side of fuel rail
Replaced by
68020556AA 0281002921 0281002534
GM 97361561 Cummins #3949988

Fuel Quality Solenoid on back of CP3
(preferred name) Fuel Control Actuator
Fuel Pressure Regulator 5159962AA 0928400822
APDTY 133821 Wiring Harness 2-Wire Pigtail Connector

Cascade/Overflow Valve NA F00N200798 on side of CP3

Hope this helps.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jun 19, 2020 3:10 am

WWDiesel wrote:

racertracer wrote:

Just to be sure, I need confirmation of what the solenoids look like and there location.
1. Fuel quantity solenoid - Is this the solenoid that is located behind the bosch fuel pump?
2. Fuel pressure solenoid - Is this the solenoid that is located at the back of the fuel rail?

What I have on File:
Fuel Pressure Solenoid 5159964AA 0281002705? at end of fuel rail
0281002507 VM 45962073F
GM 12611872 0281006019

Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor 5159963AA on side of fuel rail
Replaced by
68020556AA 0281002921 0281002534
GM 97361561 Cummins #3949988

Fuel Quality Solenoid on back of CP3
(preferred name) Fuel Control Actuator
Fuel Pressure Regulator 5159962AA 0928400822
APDTY 133821 Wiring Harness 2-Wire Pigtail Connector

Cascade/Overflow Valve NA F00N200798 on side of CP3

Hope this helps.

Thank you

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jun 19, 2020 8:25 am

I will be unwrapping more of the harness this weekend to see if i can find more chaffing.

FYI, I unplugged the glow plugs module and sprayed a shot of either in the intake to see if it would fire up and it did NOT.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 19, 2020 8:53 am

I would be very hesitant to use ether on this engine it could cause major damage. I am sure it will fire once the cause is corrected. To make sure it doesn't have to be cranked excessively you can disconnect the fuel line that leads from the filter head to the CP3 and zip tie or otherwise anchor the line near its original elevation and fill the line with diesel. This ensures that once the cause is corrected it will fire as quick as possible.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Jun 19, 2020 10:47 am

TKB4 wrote:

I would be very hesitant to use ether on this engine it could cause major damage. I am sure it will fire once the cause is corrected. To make sure it doesn't have to be cranked excessively you can disconnect the fuel line that leads from the filter head to the CP3 and zip tie or otherwise anchor the line near its original elevation and fill the line with diesel. This ensures that once the cause is corrected it will fire as quick as possible.

I appreciate the advice

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jun 21, 2020 2:36 pm

I am clueless when it comes to locating a failed sensor and I would like to ask you for some directions if I may.

How do I go about discovering if a sensor is bad... I’ve been scouring through YouTube videos for a step by step but didn't find any.

The sensors are all connected to their connectors; I found 3 chaffed wires behind the fuel head and they have been properly mended. I have not gone under the vehicle to check the harness yet but I will if i can't find a failed sensor in the engine bay.

I am using the following multi tester from Innova: https://www.innova.com/product/detail/3 ... resSection.

How do I test the sensors?

Could you point me to the proper procedure of how to test for a failed sensor?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 21, 2020 7:10 pm

Here is my experience with the fuel rail pressure sensor and fuel quantity solenoid:

The components themselves didn’t fail.
It was the wiring harness connectors.
No visible damage. The fault was within the connector and was intermittent.
Engine would start and run but wiggling the connectors would cause the engine to sputter and stall.
Splicing in new connectors fixed the problem.

And with the fuel rail pressure solenoid:

The harness connector was good.
The fault was within the solenoid.
When cold, resistance through the solenoid was normal.
Once warmed up, the resistance would go high or open circuit. Engine dies and will not restart.

After replacing the rail pressure solenoid the engine would crank and crank and not start.
Bled the air from the rail and cleared the coldes.
Took multiple attempts at bleeding and clearing codes until it finally started up and ran perfectly.

Help - My CRD died on highway traveling 45 to 50 mph

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