Here is the way I did it (disclaimer, this is how I did my servicing, only you know your experience level, so do so at your own risk): This was for the 54RFE trans on the Liberty CRD:
1) Purchased a small 12v suction pump (I think it was like $15 on amazon), comes with small attachment hoses that you can run down the dipstick tube to suck out all the fluid. Pumped out about 2.5 gals (used old milk jugs to make less of a mess). Hint: start jeep up and let run for about 5 mins to warm up the fluid before pumping, makes the fluid a bit easier to pump out. This won't get 100% of all the fluid but it does get about 90% of it. 2) Slide under the jeep (mine is lifted 4" so no jacks or ramp needed), remove skid plate (if applicable) 3) Remove all the trans pan bolts but don't remove the corner bolts, only loosen them 4) Using a non-marring tool (think plastic interior trim removal tool) loosen/remove the pan. The pan bolts in the corner keep it from dropping down completely. 5) Put your oil catch pan (or equivalent) under the trans pan and loosen/remove one of the aft corner bolts and drop the pan enough to catch the rest of the trans fluid. Depending on how much you loosed the other bolts will determine how much the pan will lower down. 6) Once all the fluid is done draining, remove the rest of the pan bolts and remove pan from trans. 7) While the rest of fluid is dripping into your catch pan, clean up the matting surface(s) of the pan and transmission. Again use a non marring tool (plastic scrapper) to remove any left over sealant or gasket material. You do not want to gouge or bend the edge of the pan or it will leak later on. 8 ) Clean up the inside of the pan and pan magnet. Inspect the magnet for any large metal particles. Very fine (smaller than sand granules) is expected as this is the friction material from the clutches. Anything bigger or chunks will be of great concern and you should think about taking the trans to a shop for additional evaluation. 9) For the large flat filter, remove the retaining bolt and pop out the filter. Be sure that the rubber O-ring is also removed with the old filter (it should be on the filter neck). Sometimes it stays inside the transmission, and a small flat head jewelers screwdriver will get it out. 10) Using a lint free rag/towel clean up the underside of the transmission. I sprayed down the area down with brake clean to get any residue off 11) Remove the small spin on filter (looks like an oil filter). It will be on tight, but it will come off. Again, be sure that the metal O-ring comes out with the the old filter. Mine was stuck so I had to gingerly use a flat head screwdriver to pry it out 12) Now is the time if you want to remove the valve body to clean out the gunk in the solenoids. I did not. The detergent in the new fluid will do that
13) Install new filter...Spin on 13a) For the spin on filter...Install the new metal O-ring. I used a socket of the appropriate diameter to seat the O-ring. It only goes on one way. You'll understand once you see it. 13b) Install spin on filter, I believe there is a torque value in the service manual but I just really snugged it on.
14) Install new filter...Flat filter 14a) Install new O-ring onto the filter neck (use a bit of fresh trans fluid to assist it on) 14b) Install flat filter into trans and make sure it is seated 14c) Reinstalled filter bolt and torque to applicable value in service manual...something like 20in lbs
15) Install new pan gasket...If using a cork gasket, put a dab of gray gasket maker on the corners of the pan to hold gasket in place. If not using cork gasket, lay a bead of gray gasket maker sealant around the edge of the pan. I also used a flat wooden stir stick to flatten out the bead of sealant and spread it around to cover the edge of the pan and around its bolts holes. Thickness of the sealant should not be so thick that a squeeze's out into inside of the pan, just enough to make a good seal. Remember, that any large amount of sealant that gets squeegeed into the inside of the pan may come loose and clog your filters/solenoids. 16) Install pan and installed pan bolts, torque them to the specified range per the service manual...something like 95in lbs. 17) I let the the sealant setup overnight before I refilled the trans just to be sure there would be no leaks. You don't have to but at least let it setup for a hour. 18) Using a long neck funnel, fill trans with ATF+4 (pick your brand, there all the same, at least from what I read, I used supertech from Wally World), through the dipstick tube and fill to the COLD mark line on the dipstick 19) Start engine and cycle through the gears stopping in each gear for at least 5 secs (P,R,N,D,2,1...1,2,D,N,R,P) 20) Once engine gets to operating temp, check the trans fluid level on dipstick and fill to full HOT mark line then add about 1/2 quart more. 21) Take the Jeep out for a drive and then come back and recheck fluid level...add fluid as necessary.
I know this sounds like a lot of steps/work but it really only took me about an hour to do all of this. But your experience level may very. Use only Mopar filters, anything else may not have the anti drain back valve on the filters and it may cause delay shifting on 1st startup from park to drive. Also, I laid down large pieces of cardboard so that any fluid that does spill will be soaked up by that vs having it spill on the concrete, makes cleanup a lot easier.
_________________ 05 CRD; Rebuilt top end w/ARP studs, EGR delete, SEGR, 3.7L HD cooling fan, Samco hoses, in tank pump, JBA coil overs & control arms, KK clevis fork, 1/2" cradle drop, 1/4" motor mount lift, WJ rear upper trilink w/WW mount, WJ lower control arms, 4:10 gear, front/rear air lockers, ARB bumper, Rock Lizard sliders/roof rack, Mod T-stat
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