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 Post subject: ***THE TRUTH ABOUT SILVERSTARS***
PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 6:17 pm 
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I notice that many people in this community use the Sylvania Silverstars and love them. If so, please disregard this post and continue enjoying your product.

However, if you truly want BRIGHTER light, not just WHITER/BLUER light, please read these two links.

Link 1
Link 2


Before I got my HIDs I was probably on the same boat as a lot of you. I felt the KJ's headlamps had good dispersion, but it couldn't hurt to make it better with brighter and bluer light. I went through 3 different sets of bulbs before I finally decided to drop the idea altogether and just go with what I had wanted all along --a TRUE HID system.

I first picked up the Silverstars. Brighter light (or so it seemed until about a month) and definitely more white. The high price doesn't justify the perceived benefit however.

Next was a pair of Nokya 110watt 8000k (8000K should actually be deep blue, not slightly purple) looking bulbs. I've heard that higher wattage bulbs provide more light output but can strain the electrical system. Its a Jeep anyway and I figure it could handle the extra load. It did, but I still wasnt happy with the light output because the deep purple filter on the bulb negated the effects of the extra wattage, and also because the higher up the Kelvin color temperature scale you go with your bulbs, the less usable light you will get. Even with a true HID system, the blue or purplish color might look really really cool (I was definitely a sucker for the color aspect), but if you research it, a lighting system closer to about 4300K-5000K will provide the most lumens. The higher on the scale you go, the more color you will get at the expense of usuable light. Lighting closer to 3000k will be very yellow and cut through fog (lower color temperatures have the best distance, hence why its easier to see stopsigns and red lights from far away than green lights), but you probably wouldn't like this color unless it was just for fog beams, or if you had 3000k HIDs.

After I got tired of the faint purple color, I went to 55watt Litech 5000k looking bulbs. The usuable light output got whiter again and definitely more blue than the silverstars, but alas it wasn't actually any brighter than the stock bulbs.

So after spending roughly $100 on crappy HID imitation bulbs, I took the plunge and ordered my 6000K HID kit. Best investment for my KJ I've made so far (AEM intake would be next). While the existing headlamp housings weren't designed for HID specifically, the lighting was definitely FAR FAR brighter.

After driving with HID for a while however, I now wish I had ordered a 5000K kit instead of 6000K. The reason being is that when driving in certain areas where the pavement isn't as reflective (depends on the grade of the asphalt I guess), the color temperature of the light blends in with the pavement color making certain things not as visible as they otherwise should be. A shift to the more-yellow, less-blue output of 5000K provides more illumination in those difficult areas and is also actually a lot easier on the eyes (of the driver, not oncoming traffic), which is what an HID system should achieve in the first place. I don't know who's ridden in a vehicle equipped with 8000K (deep blue) HIDs or higher (such as 10,000K and 12,000 show car only systems), but if you do, you will notice that there is just a lot more color on the road and not much usable driving light. Sure it looks cool, but the HID system is supposed to help you see, and not BE seen.

Although it is illegal to convert a halogen lighting system to HID because of optics concerns about focus and cutoff pattern, a true HID system is light years better than all the crappy lighting products that these unscrupulous companies are trying to sell you. You can always fabricate a projector system into the KJs housing (which I want to hear about when someone in this community actually does), and if you're even more crafty, you can fit a self-levelling (projector adjusts aim according when nose of vehicle is pointed up or down like on a hill) projector housing.

Many will argue that it is dangerous to other motorists if you are using HID in a vehicle not meant for it. In my experience, oncoming traffic will be able to see you a lot sooner and will take steps to avoid being blinded by your light, meaning they will have to be more aware of their own driving. This is okay with me since there seem to be too many people who aren't concentrating on that task while at least one of their hands is holding a steering wheel. If my massively bright lights dont make them focus on getting out of my way, at least I'll be able to see them before I run them over (j/k).


If you are considering upgrading to HID, remember these details to make sure you dont get duped:
1. HID systems run at a LOWER wattage than normal halogens (35watts versus 55watts)
2. It's not an HID system unless there is a ballast to be installed with it (sometimes a separate igniter too), AND
3. HID bulbs DO NOT use a filament (they operate similar to a neon sign where light is generated by a pocket of gas)


Bulbmakers will try to sell you all sorts of bulbs in different colors with different kinds of gases they claim to have in them. You'll see everything from "Hiper/Hyper white" to "Plazma/Plasma" "Xenon" "Krytpon," et cetera. It's all a gimmick to sell you an inferior bulb with no greater output than your stock lights.

There are a few rare exceptions however.

Both of the links say that SYLVANIA Silverstars are a DIFFERENT product than OSRAM Silver Stars.

Osram is a German company that bought the American Sylvania and both their products are still sold. Apparently the Osram bulbs use a perfectly clear glass while the Sylvania bulbs use a mostly clear glass with a slight bluish/purplish tint to it. The logic is that since the Sylvania bulb has that slight filter, it is absorbing more of the yellow spectrum of light and outputting only whiter light --which is actually minutely less light output than stock bulbs. The Osram bulbs supposedly work better because the filament used in them is more efficient, which leads to slightly better light output than the Sylvania product. (1000lumens for Sylvania versus 1150 for the Osram if I'm not mistaken)



I hope this information has provided useful to some of you. I felt like this is much needed information seeing as how this is a Jeep community and a lot of you like to go to VERY VERY dark places in the middle of nowhere.

I however, drive in the mountains on well paved roads.

We all could use better light.

EDITED

Here's a diagram I drew of connecting an HID system. And following it is a picture of the kit of the same brand as mine (the harness shown in that pic may differ from the actual harness given). I guess the guy I ordered it from included the wrong harness by accident, so it wasn't too much trouble for me to splice wires (my setup is identical to the bottom diagram).

Keep in mind that when you cut the original connector off the main leads for the headlights, if for some reason your HID bulbs burn out prematurely (which is not likely but sometimes can happen) [HID bulbs should last the life of your car], you will have to splice the original connector back to the wires to be able to use the standard 9007 55watt bulbs. HID bulbs have beefy wires extending out the back to connect directly to the ballast or igniter, and will not fit on the 55watt bulb harness.

Oh yes, the actual installation:
1. In my case, I had to cut the harness off the main leads (but if you get the right plug and play harness you wont have to)

2. The ballast mounts to something solid and flat with industrial double sided foam tape (clean the mounting surface with alcohol), or you can always fabricate a bracket (then drilling might be involved)

3. If you get the right bulb size for the KJ (9007 with straight connector), it will fit perfectly in the lamp housing (some people will modify a similar bulb type such as a 9004 by cutting off some of the plastic tabs and fitting that way)

4. You'll have an abundance of wires when finished, so be a good Jeeper and zip-tie the bundles afterward.


Image

Image



**Coming soon** : pictures of HID beam spread

EDITED

Here's pics of the beam spread. It might look the same as the stock lamps, but I couldnt really show you a side by side comparison because I didnt do a before and after set of pics. The sides are a lot more illuminated, and the front throw is greatly improved. I had to aim the lamps down a bit from the original focus because the light was so intense that it blinded a lot of cars. With this aim, it blinds only slammed honda civics and miatas.


Image

Image

Image

Image


EDITED

Here's a video of driving with it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKocZngFFvQ

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Last edited by streetKJ on Wed Oct 11, 2006 2:48 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 10:29 pm 
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good write up. Do you think you could add a little bit about what was involved with doing the actual conversion on a KJ? Did you have to doing any cutting, drilling, etc? And what's the story on your high beams? Are they still functional? Do they have an HID kit with high beams too?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 10:34 pm 
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Good info but I'll keep my silverstar's,if I need the extra light I'll crank up my KC HID's(650,000 candle power) and blind all before me HAHAHAHA :lol: :lol: :twisted: :twisted: .


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 5:21 am 
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Goot write up bud.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 8:32 am 
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Nice write-up!

But i'm with TJKJ. I have 600 watts of light under my roof rack if I need it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 11:21 am 
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Any shots of your beam pattern? I had several friends who retrofitted HID projectors into their Accord's housings back in the day when I was in the import scene. The ebay HID kits gave HORRIBLE light dispersion and had awful hotspots. Also they didn't have a good cut-off line, rather light just went everywhere unless you retrofitted projectors into your housings...then it was freaking awesome :)

So yea, pics would be great :)

-matt


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 2:34 pm 
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I ran Silverstars for a year. They don't last. The bulb life is very very short in comparison to the stockers. I couldn't justify spending the money on replacements every 4 or 5 months, if I was lucky.

I've got 200watts worth up front from my 2 IPFS... a much better investment if you ask me.

But anyway...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 3:39 pm 
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^^^

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02 Sport in Stone White
-AEM CAI, Borla XS muffler
-Duralast Premium rotors and PFC pads in front (rotors are cool but the pads suck); Satisfied pads in back drums
-6k HID mains, Hella 500 high beams
-Yokohama Geolandar HTS 235/70 R16
-smoke corners with silver turn signal bulbs


Last edited by streetKJ on Wed Oct 11, 2006 2:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 3:56 pm 
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streetKJ wrote:

**Coming soon** : pictures of HID beam spread


SNOOGENS 8)

-matt


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2006 12:09 am 
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I've had the same sealed beam Silver Stars H6054ST's for almost 3 years now. Had them on my S-10 Blazer, them switched them over to my XJ. Most of the time I don't even need to use my high beams at all.

When stockers are $10 each & Silver Stars are $20 each & 2-3 times brighter... I feel they're well worth the price.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2006 12:12 am 
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warblade666 wrote:
I've had the same sealed beam Silver Stars H6054ST's for almost 3 years now. Had them on my S-10 Blazer, them switched them over to my XJ. Most of the time I don't even need to use my high beams at all.

When stockers are $10 each & Silver Stars are $20 each & 2-3 times brighter... I feel they're well worth the price.


I was kind of trying to say with this lengthy piece that that Silverstars are not actually brighter, but only SEEM that they are.

If you think Silverstars are bright, try HID. :shock:

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-AEM CAI, Borla XS muffler
-Duralast Premium rotors and PFC pads in front (rotors are cool but the pads suck); Satisfied pads in back drums
-6k HID mains, Hella 500 high beams
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-smoke corners with silver turn signal bulbs


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:17 am 
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For what it's worth, Hella, I believe, has some very versatile and rather cheap projector housings to swap in to other housings. A lot of guys that were in the Mitsubishi Galant club I was in did it. There were also many instances of melted factory housings and lenses from the non-projector HID kits. Something to think about...

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 12:43 am 
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^^^

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02 Sport in Stone White
-AEM CAI, Borla XS muffler
-Duralast Premium rotors and PFC pads in front (rotors are cool but the pads suck); Satisfied pads in back drums
-6k HID mains, Hella 500 high beams
-Yokohama Geolandar HTS 235/70 R16
-smoke corners with silver turn signal bulbs


Last edited by streetKJ on Wed Oct 11, 2006 2:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 7:41 am 
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ya know, that's not half bad! I hate to be a demanding jerk but could you take a pic of the beam pattern on a wall? I'm really liking what I'm seeing tho! Who made the ballasts and bulbs that you got?

Also, since you live in Cali do they have restrictions on your lighting systems? I seem to remember something about that from my import days.

-matt


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 9:03 am 
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Better yet, take a pic of what it looks like to an oncoming driver. HIDs use special focused lenses to keep the beam from shining up into oncoming driver's eyes, by using the factory housings designed for normal halogen bulbs you don't have the same effect. True HIDs will have a clearly defined and normally colored cut off line at a certain height when shined against a wall. This is why HID conversions are illegal in most cases.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 9:05 am 
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Elwenil wrote:
Better yet, take a pic of what it looks like to an oncoming driver. HIDs use special focused lenses to keep the beam from shining up into oncoming driver's eyes, by using the factory housings designed for normal halogen bulbs you don't have the same effect. True HIDs will have a clearly defined and normally colored cut off line at a certain height when shined against a wall. This is why HID conversions are illegal in most cases.


that's why i asked :)

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 1:25 pm 
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Elwenil wrote:
Better yet, take a pic of what it looks like to an oncoming driver. HIDs use special focused lenses to keep the beam from shining up into oncoming driver's eyes, by using the factory housings designed for normal halogen bulbs you don't have the same effect. True HIDs will have a clearly defined and normally colored cut off line at a certain height when shined against a wall. This is why HID conversions are illegal in most cases.


You are referring to "projectors." High-intensity discharge lighting (or HID) refers to the lighting system itself which is comprised of the HID filamentless blub and ballast.

Projectors are a type of housing, usually for HID lighting systems, but in the past have used halogen lights. When HID was first introduced into the mainstream market by Lexus, I believe in about 1994 or so, the lamp housings for it were similar to the standard reflector-behind-bulb style common for halogens, with the exception being a bit more cutoff pattern so that oncoming drivers were not blinded.

As technology got better, someone had the bright idea to use a projector housing (the thick translucent glass dome over the lights). The idea is to imitate the throw of light similar to that of a movie projector, which uses a very sharp rectangular cutoff pattern with almost non-existent scattering of usable light.

To clear up the terminology, I do indeed have HID lighting, but I DO NOT have projector housings which would prevent me from blinding oncoming traffic.

Projectors are the holy grail of lighting technology that most people dream of, but they are very very expensive for a system with good optics. The assortment of projector housings you see on ebay are just bad imitations with little regard for good optics characteristic of projector systems.

And newer projector systems have the dome floating on a gyroscope which senses the angle that the cars nose is pointing relative to perfectly horizontal, and adjusts the lamps to aim higher or lower depending on the circumstance. This allows a uniform distance throw no matter if the car is moving uphill or downhill.



The limitation with projectors however is exactly what makes it great for not blinding people. Just ahead of the very sharp cutoff pattern is extreme darkness. You will have an enormously difficult time seeing just whats five feet ahead of the cutoff pattern. My friend has a Mini Cooper S and a Nissan Murano, and both have HID projectors, and both have this drawback.

With a halogen lamp housing, you can see further ahead with decreasing contrast, but you dont get nearly as much side dispersion as a projector setup. If you look at rally cars and Baja race monsters, they are equipped with non-projector housings to maximize the throw distance, hence why they also use Hella lamps with "pencil beams" (ultra long distance throw). Projector systems are really meant more for high traffic city areas where the annoyance of blinding people or getting blinded is more pervasive.


And besides, theres a glut of Honda Civics in my area with HID that blind even me. Just getting even :twisted:



This is a projector. But projectors ARE NOT synonymous with HID.
Image

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02 Sport in Stone White
-AEM CAI, Borla XS muffler
-Duralast Premium rotors and PFC pads in front (rotors are cool but the pads suck); Satisfied pads in back drums
-6k HID mains, Hella 500 high beams
-Yokohama Geolandar HTS 235/70 R16
-smoke corners with silver turn signal bulbs


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 2:49 am 
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All the useful info is lumped into the original post.


:shock: :P

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02 Sport in Stone White
-AEM CAI, Borla XS muffler
-Duralast Premium rotors and PFC pads in front (rotors are cool but the pads suck); Satisfied pads in back drums
-6k HID mains, Hella 500 high beams
-Yokohama Geolandar HTS 235/70 R16
-smoke corners with silver turn signal bulbs


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 6:56 pm 
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Elwenil wrote:
Better yet, take a pic of what it looks like to an oncoming driver. HIDs use special focused lenses to keep the beam from shining up into oncoming driver's eyes, by using the factory housings designed for normal halogen bulbs you don't have the same effect. True HIDs will have a clearly defined and normally colored cut off line at a certain height when shined against a wall. This is why HID conversions are illegal in most cases.


That is exactly what I was about to post. Since day 1 I've been waiting for someone to come out with projector headlights for the KJ. Dont get me wrong whoever put HID's in his reflector housing, but those things will blind oncoming traffic extremely bad! The KJ headlights already shine pretty high and bright and I sometimes get flashed by oncoming traffic. I did the conversion on my Mercedes ML, first with the stock reflector housing and then with the 2002+ Hella projector housing.

Also, stay away from the cheap stuff off ebay. When I bought my HID kit I went with Xtec, which is a really good kit!


*edit*: Is your Kit capable of Lo/Hi beam?

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 Post subject: Halgon HID replacement bulbs
PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 11:41 am 
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Its not good to use the HID replacement bulbs. The reason is becuase the HID is not designed to use in the Halogen reflector and the other reason is on coming drivers see glare from the light going everywhere instead of it being focused as they would be in a projector. The projectors use a very sharp cutoff from the shield built with the projector. The best way, is to buy a set of xenon or bi-xenon projectors from ebay, between 250-650 dollars, and doing a retro-fit. I have done with with my VW Jetta and works very well, plus I retain my high beams. The jetta had a tight fit for the projectors, but from what I see with mine liberty crd, there should be plenty of room. I plan do this with the jeep, just need time, extra set of headlight housings, and some money. When I do get done with my retro, I will post it up. That is going to be a while.

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