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 Post subject: Step by Step Clevis lift
PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 6:18 pm 
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Get a good floorjack & jackstands, blocks, etc.

Park on a flat/level surface & set emergency brake & block rear tires for safety.

Before jacking up the front, disconnect the lower links on the front sway bar (its easier to do with the vehicle sitting level)

Jack up one side of the front, set on jackstand, remove front wheel.

Put floor jack under the LCA to raise it slightly.

Take nut off of upper ball joint...hint..remove it completely before trying to break the ball joint loose.

Use a hammer to break the ball joint stud loose. I pounded on each side & it finally came loose.

Lower the floor jack which is holding up the LCA to get the hub out of the way. Be carefull about the ABS hardware if you have it.

Loosen the cap-screw bolt that is holding the "strut clamp" hardware (i.e., the clevis).

Carefully use a crowbar to pry the strut higher in the clevis.
(I raised mine about 5/8", a little bit of the strut was sticking out the bottom).

Tighten the cap-screw bolt and torque to 100 ft-lbs.

Raise the LCA & hub assy. using the floor jack so you can reconnect the upper ball joint.

Reconnect the ball joint & torque to (?). Anybody have a torque value for this???

Reinstall the front wheel.

Do other side of the front.....

Reconnect the front sway bar.

Jack up one side of the rear, put on jackstand & remove wheel.

Use floor jack to raise up the axle a little so you can take out the upper shock bolt.

Let the jack down, and push down on the wheel hub and you should be able to pull the spring out.

Install rear puc per mfg. instructions and push hub down to get the spring back in. (I stood on the hub while my son put the spring back in).

Use the floor jack to raise the axle up and reconnect the upper shock bolt.

Put wheel back on & do the other side.

I think you're done at this point...except for the test drive around the block of course.

Actually, the rear is pretty easy to do.

If anyone out there notices that I missed something, feel free to correct me.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2005 3:33 pm 
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The upper and I think lower ball joint nut torque value is 60 ft lbs.

And don't forget the recheck the torque of all the bolts you loosened after 500 miles.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2005 4:03 pm 
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How much Lift does this give a stock suspensioned Lib ??

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 12:14 pm 
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Any step by step pics ???

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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2006 10:01 am 
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Did you measure 5/8" on both sides of the front or did you just guesstimate? How do you know that you are sitting level on both sides?

ANd the instructions for the rear is a little unclear, especially for a newb like myself.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 8:59 am 
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I have also read that some people are putting washers in between for the clevis is this better then letting the strut float?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 7:23 pm 
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When doing a floating clevis lift, does one have to remove the upper ball joint? isn't posible just by loosening the ypper clevis bolt and using a prybar to raise it?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 4:27 pm 
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Big D wrote:
When doing a floating clevis lift, does one have to remove the upper ball joint? isn't posible just by loosening the ypper clevis bolt and using a prybar to raise it?


You would have to be pretty strong seeing as you would be pushing against the resistance of the strut and spring.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 4:29 pm 
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Also when adding more than one spring isolator I found that renting a spring compressor makes things much easier.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 8:56 pm 
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Hood297 wrote:
Also when adding more than one spring isolator I found that renting a spring compressor makes things much easier.


Agreed. A buddy of mine and I decided to eventually buy one and have been glad that we did. :)

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:06 pm 
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Question, I thought doing a clevis lift didn't cost anything, but for the rear it say's Install rear puc per mfg. instructions....

What are these and where do you get them?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 6:35 am 
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Here's a pic. The rear doesn't have a clevis so you would need to buy a spacer to put under the spring.

Image

So, jack up the car, get a stand under it, take of the wheel, loosen up the clevis bolt. Get a crowbar and gently pry the strut upward. Goes realy smooth since the weight of the lca and hub/brake are hanging on the clevis. No need to loosen the UBJ.

You can do a save 3/8 - 10mm lift. Re-torque the bolt. Done.

If you want to make sure they don't sag back you can fit some conduit nuts under the strut. You don't have to though.

Some aditional info:

05kj6spd wrote:
not sure i understand. How does a 3/8 clevis lift gain you 3/4 actual lift. moving the clevis down 3/8 should only move the jeep up 3/8's right?


tjkj2002 wrote:
You gain twice as much lift from the fact that the lower part of the strut assembly(the clevis) is mounted midway on the LCA,and is at a angle.When the front wheel moves 2" up/down the strut assembly only moves 1".It's simple goemetery.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 2:56 am 
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do you have to get your jeep realigned after doing this lift?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 10:13 am 
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Yes


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 12:06 pm 
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o well nevermind to much money for such a little bit of lift. I already have the rustys coil but no clevis lift.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 2:01 am 
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what size is the conduit nuts under the strut ....
outer diameter of the strut base
and do you cut the slit into the conduit nut to match the alignment slit on the strut base

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2008 10:20 am 
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2" and with OEM struts I think you'll have to yes.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 2:40 am 
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i bought some 2" conduit nuts and they are too big, they don't catch on the ridge on the factory strut.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 5:26 am 
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On the factory and Rancho front shocks you will need to stack a few above the lip to fill in before they actually will build up for the lift. 2 should do the trick then 2 or 3 more under those.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:34 am 
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Does anyone have pictures of the Clevis nuts installed?

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