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 Post subject: What Works (and Doesn’t Work) on an Unlifted KJ
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 10:13 am
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Location: DFW, TX
Thought I would share this so hopefully it will help someone else down the line. My stock Wrangler ST tires ran out of tread already at 21,000 miles. (They were useless tires from day one, but I couldn’t convince myself to replace them if they still had tread.) So I decided to replace all 5 wheels and tires and improve things a little bit.

Here is what I wanted.
I have an 2007 unlifted 3.7L 4x2 Sport. I just wanted to get a little wider stance than the stock wheel/tire combo. Maybe a little bigger tire, but only if it would fit without lifting. I had no intentions to lift at this point. So after reading tons of wheel/tire fitment issue threads, and a little help from tjkj2002 and incubusmike, (see this thread for their comments: Click here Thanks guys!) I decided on a new setup.

Here is what I got:
Wheels: Cragar Black D’s – 15x7 – 4.0 BS Link
Tires: Treadwright A/T-G 235/75R15 Link

Why 15’s? I just wanted a little more rubber between the wheel and ground. I just like how it looks with 15’s over 16’s. I chose 235/75’s since they were within ¼ inch of stock tire diameter. Speedo will still be close to accurate, and these should be the least likely to rub. And why retreads? Well, I may regret it, but I searched all over the web for review on Treadwrights (used to be High-Tec Retreading) and have yet to find anything negative about them. All good comments and the price just couldn’t be beat. I am sure someone will chime in here with something bad about them, but we will see. Just FYI, I will keep this thread updated about every 5000 miles when I rotate tires with my impressions of the tires and detailed tread depth measurements so we will all know from now on.

How did it work?
The wheels fit just fine. (So would the Soft 8’s or the V-5’s) No problems clearing the calipers. Tires looked great and balanced easily. Less that 2 oz per wheel. The only problem that I initially found was a slight fender rub in the front of the front fender at full lock. (I didn’t hit the pinch weld, because I already pounded it down, knowing it would be a problem) I just checked it while sitting on level ground in the driveway while my 9 year old turned the wheel from full lock right to full lock left. Great! I can live with that. Then I backed out of the driveway, turning to full lock as I rolled down the driveway slant, through the gutter, and then up into the street. GRIND! Ouch! That sounds a lot worse than I thought it would. Wait, think about it. Oh yeah, suspension flexes up and down as you turn backing out of the driveway. Then I went for a short drive to Sonic Drive-In. I turned left into the Sonic parking lot and darted across the oncoming lane into the parking lot. GRIND AGAIN! But from the rear this time. Again, suspension flexed as I bounced into the parking lot and the rear tire rubbed on the fender flare.

How did/am I fixing it?
1. I did a clevis lift up front and slowed down over bouncy surfaces. This pretty much cleared up all of the rubbing issues. I still have a slight fender rub up front every once in a while, but not often.
2. I also decided to do the Daystar 2.5” lift all around. I want to be free from all rubbing all around. I am sure the .75” spacer and extra rear spring isolators would do it too. But, if I am going to take the time to tear it apart to add all the spacers, I might as well do the whole kit. It really won’t cost much more or take any more time.

How everyone else can avoid this in the future.
1. Get 4.5” BS wheels. 4.25” BS might do it but 4.5” should be perfect.
2. Add 1”wheel spacer to your OEM Wheels
3. Do a clevis lift or the Rusty’s .75” spacer lift in the front, and then add an extra spring isolation or 2 in the rear.
(Do a search. You will find tons of info on doing this)
4. Just go ahead and do a full lift all around. (Thanks tonyCRD and tommudd for your insight here)
a. 2.5” Daystar spacer lift for a budget lift ($155) if you are not going to be off-roading and just want to lift for clearance and looks
b. OME HD Springs with Rancho or OME Shocks/Struts ($650-ish) for off roading
c. FrankenLift ($$$)

And Last of all… Was it worth it?
Absolutely. I think so. You be the judge.
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I hope this helps some others as they start upgrading and changing things up. Good luck

_________________
2007 Light Khaki 4x2 Sport
- Debadged - LTT CAI with Amsoil Filter - JVC HD Radio - Infinity BassLink
- Iggee Seat Covers - Black Moabs - 265/75-16 Cooper Discoverer ATP - 4.10's
- DIY Franky sitting at 23.75" - Al's 4.5 UCAs - Trimmed F&R Bumpers
- Removed Rear Sway Bar - Removed Rear Vibration Damper
- 75k miles so far...
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