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 Post subject: Other than part 5142799AA what EGR parts are replaced?
PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2006 10:57 pm 
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I searched for 5142799AA on this forum and found about 4 mentions of it being replaced during an EGR failure event. That part number as far as I can tell is for the "EGR flow control valve." This part is also known as an anti shudder valve, anti run on valve, throttle body (to some dealers), and probably some other names as well. I've looked it up on two different online mopar parts sites. One called it an EGR valve, one called it an intake throttle! Did anybody have an EGR failure that didn't involve replacing this part? The 5142799AA is not really the EGR valve, it is related but it is a separate piece. Has anybody had to have the actual EGR replaced? Please let me know a part number if you have one. I'm trying to figure out how many of the "EGR valve" failures are actually the "EGR flow control valve." Any help would be appreciated.

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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 12:44 am 
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5166555AB - egr valve, replaced at 8K miles. This is not the anti-shudder/air control valve, but the electric egr valve which has a pipe from the exhaust manifold connected to it, a cooler and another pipe exiting the cooler and connecting to the intake. The air control valve was not replaced and still works correctly.

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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 7:29 am 
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O.K. Thanks ranger1. So far yours is the only post to mention this part number. When I searched for it I saw that you had posted it previously - so thank you twice. My intent is to keep track of what parts are actually failing. The EGR flow control has a different set of living conditions than the actual EGR and the two may fail for different reasons. I have not had a failure of either yet, but I really do expect it at some point.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 8:13 am 
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The EGR also has inlet and outlet for coolant from cooling system. The thing is heavy as a brick, unlike the Flow Control Valve that is lite as a feather.

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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 9:27 am 
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PN 5166555AB replaced at 13,200 miles on April 26th. The CRD has been back twice for a CEL since the EGR was replaced. She's going back today for the third time.

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Last edited by Ugg on Tue May 02, 2006 11:55 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 11:16 am 
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This is the info I was looking for. Thanks, and keep it coming.

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05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 11:49 am 
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Wonder how many inexperienced diesel tech's replace the wrong failed part? My dealership ordered the incorrect part, but the tech new it was the wrong part and had them order the proper part. The parts guy just saw EGR and not the rest of part name that was the problem.

Heck my tech acually tested the part by unplugging the Flow Valve and plugging in new valve before doing any wrench turning and the cell cleared and didn't come back, when he replugged the original still mounted Flow Valve back in it threw a code first thing. The kid may only be 22 years old, but he is good with diesels and when other very senior techs have diesel problem they ask him before making the D/C call. If they could just get him to keep his paper work straight, he would every shops dream. But his daddy is a diesel tech at trucking company and he started at early age.

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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 1:12 pm 
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I'd say the valve would last longer too if it was not actually installed but only plugged in. :)
Was your valve physically stuck? Did it have soot or oily goo on it? I only ask because it sounds like you got a chance to handle it or at least look at it. If anybody has to buy one of these out of warranty, I'll buy the bad one. I want to know what makes this thing tick as the saying goes.

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05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 2:33 pm 
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What is really puzzling to me is that it seems there are two camps. Either you have NO EGR related issues at all, or you have them once a month. There is no middle ground. I have had my CRD for exactly 1 year this coming weekend...have put over 22,000 miles on it running #2 diesel of poor quality at times and I have never had one single EGR related issue whatsoever. Then you have some guys claiming to have EGR replacements every time they get their oil changed. I don't understand that. It almost seems like there is some other variable involved here besides just the CRD engine itself... :?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 3:03 pm 
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I've had mine replaced twice in less than 4000 miles. I think my problem is the number of miles I drive to work each morning that being 3.7 miles. The jeep really never gets warmed to optimum operating temperature just enough to create the problem and not correct it. The first occurance was at 2750 miles and the second was detected during the TSB upgrade. I'm hoping that with the introduction of ULSD this problem will be eliminated or atleast reduced. I think I just really need to plaan a nice trip to burn it out and put some enjoyable miles on it. The problem maybe the short trip and not the long haul.


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 3:06 pm 
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Sirroco,

When you get a chance would you check your work order for part numbers? Thanks.

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05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 3:34 pm 
sirroco wrote:
I've had mine replaced twice in less than 4000 miles. I think my problem is the number of miles I drive to work each morning that being 3.7 miles. The jeep really never gets warmed to optimum operating temperature just enough to create the problem and not correct it. The first occurance was at 2750 miles and the second was detected during the TSB upgrade. I'm hoping that with the introduction of ULSD this problem will be eliminated or atleast reduced. I think I just really need to plaan a nice trip to burn it out and put some enjoyable miles on it. The problem maybe the short trip and not the long haul.


I think you just nailed the "two camps" on the head that LibertyCRD is mentioning in the above post. For me, I'm just over 10,000 miles and I never drive less than 20 miles per time to or from work, at least half at freeway speeds. 3.7miles one way will kill any diesel engine in one way or another...


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 3:57 pm 
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I second that notion, I've had mine a year as well and no EGR issues. I also put tons of miles and lots of long haul high speed driving. 25,000 and mostly highway and 70-83 mostly at 80.

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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 6:12 pm 
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O.K. Danno is on the list having replaced the EGR flow control valve. So far we have way more of the EGR flow control valve than we do of the actual EGR valve. That is good and bad. The EGR flow control valve is way easier to get to, but it is also more expensive. Keep the part numbers coming guys, I think we have the start of some valuable info here.

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05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 6:23 pm 
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Our Jeep is a short trip runner of average 7 miles shut off for 5 min, then back on the road for another 7 miles with this repeated in the afternoon. There will also be some ocassional short trips in between those two morning & afternoon trips, but then with each fill we drive a 120 mile round trip for B10 or 60 miles round trip for B2 all being 49 cetane.

Our only trouble has been a MAF failure and EGR Flow Control Valve and had the 2 TSB's for tranny filter and flash job. I think that when the tech that replaced the oil dipstick & tube (yep we had that baby) he might have damaged the Flow Control Valve when he removed it to replace bent dipstick tube. He had it out and cleaned the thing with spray cleaner, it could have been damaged while it sat on his tool tray by accident.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 6:30 pm 
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Matt
the part number is 5142799AA that has been replaced twice. there is no doubt the problem is occuring due to the number of miles I drive a day. When I bought the vehicle our company was and still is considering relocation aproximately 30 miles each way. I deal with diesel generators and know the characteristics and problems. Both times the repairs were made it was under warranty and the down time was minimal. My dealership has a very capable and with my input from what I know and what has been reported here we have a very good relationship. Starting next week our fuel supplier is willing to provide me with B20 that he will blend for me using peanut oil. I had a long talk with him this weekend and held up getting B5 as he is getting ready to make a blend this week. He said that ULSD will be available in Sept as per EPA guide lines. Should the comapny decide not to move and my driving distance remains less than 4 miles I'll probably be selling this in 3 years when the 3/36 runs out as a very low mileage vehicle approx 15,000 miles. Most people wished they worked closer to home, I'm wishing the opposite. For those of you who have this vehicle don't be afraid to use. Hopefully with B20, ULSD and giving it a good cleaning out on weekends I won't have another problem. I love the vehicle am glad that I bought it, have a great dealership that communicates but will have to drive it harder than I have.


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 7:02 pm 
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Has anybody had a failed EGR flow control valve in their hand or had a good look at one? Because this is upstream of the EGR valve, I would be surprised if it had large amounts of soot in it. Large amounts of crank vent crap wouldn't surprise me in a stock system though.

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05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 7:46 pm 
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Goglio704 wrote:
Has anybody had a failed EGR flow control valve in their hand or had a good look at one? Because this is upstream of the EGR valve, I would be surprised if it had large amounts of soot in it. Large amounts of crank vent crap wouldn't surprise me in a stock system though.
I held and look over both the new and old Flow Valve, the old Flow Valve had a lot of soot and oil mix when they removed from our CRD this past Saturday. Anything else you want to know?

Also had a good look at a new EGR Valve.

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Last edited by oldnavy on Tue May 02, 2006 8:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 7:47 pm 
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Could you move the butterfly by hand at all?

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05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2006 8:06 pm 
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Goglio704 wrote:
Could you move the butterfly by hand at all?
We could close it, but it would not open more then half way. It was as if maybe something was blocking it internally and what movement it had was not smooth.

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Last edited by oldnavy on Tue May 02, 2006 8:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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