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 Post subject: 2.8L CRD Fuel Filter Pics
PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2006 2:10 pm 
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My 2005 Jeep Liberty Limited 4x4 CRD has 17,147 miles on the clock as of today and it's getting close for the 3rd oil change (I've been on about a 5700 to 6000 mile drain interval or so).

The fuel filter has a recommended replacement interval of 25k miles, but I really don't want to stretch it that far.

I recently purchased the fuel filter from Cornett Chrysler in Irvine, KY.....part number 52129238AA........lists for $44.22 and my cost was $27.50 plus tax.

Here's a few pics of the filter.

Greg

Image


This is the bottom part of the fuel filter.

If you look in the previous picture, you'll see a white "dummy" plastic plug that threads into the bottom of the fuel filter.....this is where the water is regularly drained from the fuel filter and where the WIF (Water In Fuel) sensor is located.

Image

This is the top part of the fuel filter.

There's two o-rings / gaskets that need a light coating of diesel applied to them prior to installation.

Note the white filter media through the six holes in the filter.

If you look a tad harder, you'll see the bottom of the filter where the WIF Sensor is attached.

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2006 2:25 pm 
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Nice info...so when you when you change the fuel filter do you fill up the new one with diesel first and then prime it to get pressure? Do you have to use the bleeder screw when doing a normal fuel filter change? Also do you have to disconnect the water sensor on the bottom?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2006 2:41 pm 
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I've not changed mine yet, but I plan to in about two or three weeks or so.

The WIF Sensor should screw in fairly easily.....simply disconnect the wiring harness from it, unscrew the entire fuel filter assembly with a strap type wrench, re-install the WIF Sensor onto the new filter, prime with Power Service or diesel (your choice), coat the o-rings and tighten down, open the air bleed screw a bit, and hit the PRIME button a few times.

I'll let you know in a couple of weeks.....I'm sure others here can share their fuel filter changing experiences soon !

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2006 3:21 pm 
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The water in fuel sensor has to be removed from the existing fuel filter and transferred to the new filter. It comes off easily. On mine, I had to pull the top o-ring off the bottom of the fuel filter head unit, where it stayed when I removed the old fuel filter. I used a oil filter strap wrench with a right angle swivel and a drain funnel to change the filter. I primed my new filter with PS Diesel Kleen, then attached the new filter, primed the pump with a loosened bleed valve until no more air came out, tightened it down, reattached the electrical plugs and then started the engine. Started right up on the first try, no hiccups if you bleed all of the air out first.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2006 7:40 pm 
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Ranger1 wrote:
The water in fuel sensor has to be removed from the existing fuel filter and transferred to the new filter. It comes off easily. On mine, I had to pull the top o-ring off the bottom of the fuel filter head unit, where it stayed when I removed the old fuel filter. I used a oil filter strap wrench with a right angle swivel and a drain funnel to change the filter. I primed my new filter with PS Diesel Kleen, then attached the new filter, primed the pump with a loosened bleed valve until no more air came out, tightened it down, reattached the electrical plugs and then started the engine. Started right up on the first try, no hiccups if you bleed all of the air out first.


Makes me wonder if my primer pump works. I haven't changed a fuel filter yet, but I did open the bleed screw and try to bleed out any air that might be present. I gave up after 15 or 20 strokes because I never got any fuel out the bleed screw. I could hear some air moving, but it sounded like it was blowing and sucking with the push and release of the primer. I thought maybe I was supposed to close the bleeder before the release stroke or something. I didn't have time to get into anything serious, so I just let it go. If I understood you right it sounds like you just opened the bleeder and pumped till you got fuel?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2006 8:01 pm 
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Yes. If you open the bleeder valve slightly, pump the primer handle, fuel should come out. The primper pump handle has to be pushed down hard to make it start. Bleeder valve might not have been open enough. I loosen it finger loose and then pump 5 or 10 times. Fuel comes out on the first or second push if the valve is open enough.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 4:28 pm 
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You'll need a good set of car / truck ramps to pull the front end on.....the fuel filter change will have to be done from the bottom.

Start off by disconnecting the water in fuel sensor located at the bottom of the filter. Do not unscrew the WIF sensor yet, unless you want some nice #2 running down your arm into your armpit. Simply feel your way around the connector, and then simply squeeze and pull the connector at the same time.

You'll need either a home-made strap type wrench or a fluted oil filter wrench to loosen the fuel filter. Unscrew it counter clockwise and ease it down with care. Due to clearance issues, I'll be buying an appropriate fluted oil filter wrench in the near future.

After removing the filter, clean the fuel filter housing with a clean paper towel. Ensure that both the center (small) o-ring and large o-ring are on the old filter and not the housing to prevent a double-gasketing scenario. This is easier performed from the top, underhood.

Transfer the WIF sensor from the old filter onto the new one. If you kept the filter in its original vertical position, you can see how loosening the WIF sensor also doubles as the drain for routine draining.

Prime the new fuel filter with your choice of diesel fuel supplement (I used Power Service as it's readily available). Be patient as you fill it up....the more you get into the filter, the less pushing of the priming button you'll have to do for a re-start. Coat both o-rings (large and small) with diesel fuel supplement.

Thread onto the housing and tighten by hand. Reconnect the WIF sensor connector. You'll need a 1/2" wrench to open the air bleed screw....open it up two or three turns. Place a shop towel near the nipple end of the air bleed screw and hit the primer button until you see all diesel and no air coming out......usually not much more than 6 to 8 pumps if you primed the filter with diesel fuel supplement right the first time.

Tighten air bleed screw.....start up, and check for leaks.

Piece of cake....unless you have huge arms.....it's a little tight getting to everything from below.

Sorry for the lack of pictures regarding the fuel filter change itself.....I was also performing an oil & filter change and tire rotation, and my hands were rotten from the work......didn't want to trash the ol' digital camera.

Greg

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 9:31 am 
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I did mine from the top; it was very easy, and not terribly messy. I put an old plastic baggie over the entire filter, and then used a filter wrench over that. Came out with no muss, no fuss.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 4:44 pm 
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Same here, from the top. Only went in from the bottom to unscrew the wif plug and put my wide-rim funnel under the filter to catch any leaks from the priming process. Biggest time saver for me was the right-angle swivel strap oil filter wrench. Makes getting the fuel filter off a 15 second process.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:46 pm 
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Any chance someone could PM or email me a larger version of that schematic drawing? :)

VR

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 6:22 pm 
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valkraider wrote:
Any chance someone could PM or email me a larger version of that schematic drawing? :)

VR


Move your pointer over it and print it !

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 7:54 pm 
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Could someone please post a pic of the 'right angle' filter wrench and also the 'fluted' wrench so I can see the difference?

Many thanks.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 9:29 pm 
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Wilmo wrote:
Could someone please post a pic of the 'right angle' filter wrench and also the 'fluted' wrench so I can see the difference?


Fluted :

Image

Right angle / swivel handle wrench :

Image

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 9:35 pm 
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Can I ask a silly question, but, has anyone actually ever had water or even traces of water in they're fuel filters ? I would be keen to know ?

Stu

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2006 11:08 pm 
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Thanks heaps Greg for the pics. Never seen a fluted one before.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 6:56 am 
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OzLtd wrote:
Can I ask a silly question, but, has anyone actually ever had water or even traces of water in they're fuel filters ? I would be keen to know ?

Stu


I've owned VWdiesels since 1978 and on occasion have sawed appart a filter after I removed it. There was always signs of a slight bit of water in the bottom (rust stains) and I do drain the water out using the white knob that's in the hole on the bottom. I also understand the water can/will stay in suspension in the fuel.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:38 am 
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Wilmo wrote:
Thanks heaps Greg for the pics. Never seen a fluted one before.


No problem !

Greg

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2006 5:22 pm 
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gsbrockman wrote:
You'll need a good set of car / truck ramps to pull the front end on.....the fuel filter change will have to be done from the bottom.


I was able to just do it by sliding under without any ramps. YWSMV: (Your Waste Size May Vary) :)

Actually, I jest. I park my CRD with the front wheels in my driveway, and the rear in the street. Level the vehicle, and I have a nice wide open space in the "gutter" to crawl under. On a flat surface I would need ramps.

gsbrockman wrote:
Start off by disconnecting the water in fuel sensor located at the bottom of the filter. Do not unscrew the WIF sensor yet, unless you want some nice #2 running down your arm into your armpit. Simply feel your way around the connector, and then simply squeeze and pull the connector at the same time.


I actually got the diesel down the arm when removing the filter. Is there a way to drain the filter before it comes off? I see posts talking about putting bags around it and whatnot, At once every 20,000 miles I will just have to take time to experiment...

gsbrockman wrote:
You'll need either a home-made strap type wrench or a fluted oil filter wrench to loosen the fuel filter. Unscrew it counter clockwise and ease it down with care. Due to clearance issues, I'll be buying an appropriate fluted oil filter wrench in the near future.


I used a strap wrench I bought from SEARS. Worked OK - just not much clearance so I only could turn it in little tiny increments.


gsbrockman wrote:
You'll need a 1/2" wrench to open the air bleed screw....


Mine was 11mm. Strange...

gsbrockman wrote:
Piece of cake....unless you have huge arms.....it's a little tight getting to everything from below.


I think the hardest part for me (besides my arm getting tired holding it all the way up to the filter from underneath) was getting new filter threaded. Since I couldn't really *see* what I was doing it seemed like it took forever to find the right angle and threads to get it on...

All in all not technically dificult service at all. It was more annoying with little things than actually HARD.

As a note, You can get the filter for $27 and change online all sorts of places. I called all of our local dealers and they wanted $46 to $49 for the filter. I told the dealer I pass closest too that I could get it online for $27 plus $7 shipping, and asked if they would meet that. They did, so I picked it up for $35 locally.

If you don't want to order it online, ask the dealer if they will match the prices. I also did this with a $300 Mopar basket rack - the same dealer. They met the online+shipping price which saved me $30 and I didn't have to wait for shipping... :)

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 12:37 am 
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Last edited by longarm on Sat Sep 08, 2007 10:32 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2006 8:54 pm 
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I recently changed my fuel filter. Here are a few pics to help others planning on completing this task.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2477806

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