Just changing the air intake on most vehicles doesn't make much difference. To make more power, you need to get more air and fuel through the entire system, and it has to be efficient. It takes correct combinations to make significant differences.

Nitrous isn't exactly easy if you want to put more than around an extra 40-45 hp to the ground. Even a 100 hp shot on a stock motor and stock programming with colder plugs won't do it. Also, the 3.7 can't handle N2O very well. 3rd gear is really difficult for it. You also need an RPM window switch or when you hit the rev limiter, and then a slow shift, it could grenade. The rings are too high on the pistons which causes the ring land to chunk off. The head gasket blows pretty easily too. There is also the problem of the intake manifold not getting an even mix of N2O, air, and fuel to the cylinders which causes the front cylinders to run leaner than the rears unless you go with direct porting at each injector. You'll need to have the torque management deleted from your PCM also.

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June 2001 Liberty Limited 4X4
Frankenlift II Premium, Al's Upper Arms, 245/75R16 C Silent Armors on Moabs, RL Skink Super Sliders, Rear DTT, Riddler Diff Cover, Fastman Throttle Body, Profinish-Proglass Hood, Borla Dual Outlet Exhaust, TransGo Reprogramming Kit, APS Stall Converter, 4.10 Gears, B&G Chrysler PCM, Lots of Line-X, etc...

As I read this discussion I was curious as to when the gains are noticeable with a CAI. For instance the K&N CAI graphs gains when RPM's hit 3K+. To tell you the truth I really try to keep the KJ under 3K. With that in mind I do like the sound of the CAI though. Nice and throaty with a little Ka-Chow!

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<b>--PHIL--</b>
<i>(Lift, Wheels, Tires, Skids, U Know...)</i>
<b>L.O.S.T MID-WEST MEMBER #057522 </b>

Both of my VW's gained more top-end power. The Stealth seemed to breathe better all over the rpm range. One thing people dont think about is how cold air intakes can alter your power delivery. The general size and shape of intake system determine this I think. That one that splits and has a filter on each side of the throttle body would behave much differently than, for example, the AEM style which tends to be long, and stick the filter in a corner of your engine bay.

I think you would generally see more low end power with a short intake path, and more high end power with a long one. One of my VWs was naturally aspirated (VR6 GTI) and the other was turbo (1.8t). Both had AEM style CAI's, which in both instances seemed to shift their powerband up the RPM range. Especially on the 1.8t, I actually seemed to lose some low end torque. The factory design, I believe, is optimal in many ways. I probably gained more power overall, but it was in a place that I didnt go as much, i.e. more toward redline. The 1.8t had a bunch of torque low in the RPM's, not unlike a KJ...

I DO like a lot of intake noise, though. I love that throaty sound. I am considering a CAI, if just to hear more of my engine. If anyone with a CAI wants to post a sound clip or video I'd be incredibly grateful!

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2006 Sport 4X4, Deep Beryl Green, NSG370, NV241J, Lifted with OME 927/948 and Bilstein, JBA 4.5 UCA's, Custom 3" Rear Y-Link Extension and Swaybar Relocation, 265/75-16 Toyo Open Country AT2 tires, Black Plastidipped bumpers, flares, and doors, Pioneer speakers, Alpine head unit, 1200w Phoenix Gold Amp, 12" Dayton Reference sub.

This actually is exactly the oppisite of what happens.


Long Intake runners - More Torque

Short Intake runners - More HP (higher up in the RPM range)

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02 Liberty Limited
Silver Outside & Taupe Inside
Heated Seats, Sunroof & Infinity speakers
USA Spec I-Pod adaptor, Mopar Sub, Garmin GPS
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Rock Rails, Tow Hooks

I know that as far as the intake manifold itself goes, yes short = hp and long = torque. Im sure that things are acting differently in the intake thats ahead of the throttle body, though.

EDIT

I think this is the best compromise as far as air intakes go. http://www.autoanything.com/air-intakes/60A1849A0A0.aspx It keeps the stock airbox and replaces the filter and tube thats between the airbox and throttle body. However all you'd really be eliminating is the accordion section thats right next to the airbox...I dont think the stock setup is all that restrictive. Maybe its best left alone.[/quote]

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2006 Sport 4X4, Deep Beryl Green, NSG370, NV241J, Lifted with OME 927/948 and Bilstein, JBA 4.5 UCA's, Custom 3" Rear Y-Link Extension and Swaybar Relocation, 265/75-16 Toyo Open Country AT2 tires, Black Plastidipped bumpers, flares, and doors, Pioneer speakers, Alpine head unit, 1200w Phoenix Gold Amp, 12" Dayton Reference sub.