CO2 - 10# Tank vs. 20# Tank

QuestMan · **Posted:** Tue Jul 08, 2008 6:38 pm

I'm looking at getting a CO2 setup and was wondering - What's the best size to get? 10lb., or 20? and why?

Thanks

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Tue Jul 08, 2008 6:49 pm

What are your needs? How much space can you afford to lose in the back?

Your needs will depend on size you need. A 10lb bottle should do for normal off-roading. If you have a need for a lot of air tools, a lot of off-roading, and a lot of people mooching air from you, get the 20 lb bottle. Keep in mind space needs in the back.

Inc · **Posted:** Tue Jul 08, 2008 7:33 pm

I run the 10# and it works great for me and it lasts a long time. That said, I don't run any air tools, only tire fills. I do use it to fill rafts and stuff when we go to the lake or river and that uses a ton of CO2 but my tank seems to handle it fine. I didn't want the 20# because of the size of it too. It was just too big for what I wanted. If you plan on running tools off it then go with the 20 if not I say 10# will be more than enough.

BeepBeepJeepJeep · **Posted:** Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:12 pm

I just ordered a 20# aluminum tank. I didn't even consider the 10#. But hey, I do everything else backwards in my life, why should this be any different.

Inc · **Posted:** Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:13 pm

BeepBeepJeepJeep wrote:

I just ordered a 20# aluminum tank. I didn't even consider the 10#. But hey, I do everything else backwards in my life, why should this be any different.

So why did you not consider the 10#er? Just didn't think of it or thought it was too small?

BeepBeepJeepJeep · **Posted:** Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:14 pm

incubusmike wrote:

BeepBeepJeepJeep wrote:

I just ordered a 20# aluminum tank. I didn't even consider the 10#. But hey, I do everything else backwards in my life, why should this be any different.

So why did you not consider the 10#er? Just didn't think of it or thought it was too small?

I figured why get the 10# if I can get the 20# for only a little more. I didn't even consider space. Damnit.

Inc · **Posted:** Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:16 pm

I looked around and for the system I got ($185 off ebay) I couldn't find a 20# to come close enough to price and it does fit better in the back of my kj. But you'll love the 20#. It will last a LONG time.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Tue Jul 08, 2008 10:49 pm

I have a 20# in the back of a TJ so it should be no issue in a KJ
It never seems to be empty but I have a 5# for when I think it is getting close
I have an air impact ,an air ratchet, and an air cut off tool that I use off of it and it still last a long time
cut off tool is the best when a stock TJ slides down into some thing and bends the tail pipe ,cut it off in no time

Now I also do a bunch of off roading and have come to rely on it so I could never go smaller
for 95% of the people out there 10# is more than enough
If all you want it for is airing up and emergency air impact tire changing then 10# will do you fine
if you want to get more ,like use it to run air tools at home, a 20# is better

BeepBeepJeepJeep · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2008 12:33 am

I got my 20# Aluminum tank for $115 shipped. I only ordered it online because a local welding shop wanted $140 for a steel 20# and I knew I could do better.

Total i've spent on the project is $260, but the regulator I got was $50 (didn't want to go too cheap here).

Inc · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2008 1:28 am

BeepBeepJeepJeep wrote:

Total i've spent on the project is $260, but the regulator I got was $50 (didn't want to go too cheap here).

For me spending $260 was out of the question. If I couldn't get the setup I wanted for under $200 I would have waited and found a used one for sale or something. Post pics of your setup and where you decide to mount it.

QuestMan · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2008 10:52 pm

Well, I did it! I got a 10#er. I debated between the two, and decided A: I won't use it THAT often, and B: The filled weight of a 10# tank is about 27lbs., vs.about 36lbs. for a 20lb. tank, according to the charts & specs. link on Powertank's website http://www.powertank.com/charts.specs

36lbs. doesn't sound like a lot, but every ounce counts, and I have an amazing ability to overload my Jeep very quicly.....(i.e., outboard motor, seats for my boat, tackle [That ALONE is 30-40 lbs.], trolling battery, trolling motor, you get the idea).

Now, I didn't get the tank off of Ebay, even though that is hands down the best bargain, short of doing it yourself. I went through Amazon.com com, and for one simple reason: I've accumulated rewards points from my job, that I could use toward gift certificates at Amazon. Therefore, I got a set of Staun Tyre Deflators, and the Co2 tank, for a grand total out-of-pocket cost of $2.48.

This, I can live with.

I originally planned on using the rewards points toward getting a winch, after I got a bull bar from RL or ARB, but the R.I.F. (Reduction In Force) that I, unfortunately was at the wrong end of, put a temporary moratorium on Bull Bars and winches.

In the meantime, I figure I need to do SOMETHING, so why not get something I can have fun with. :twisted:

Inc · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2008 11:07 pm

Sounds good and for that price it is hard to argue. Let us know when the system is complete and how it turned out. PICS are a must of course.

LIV42DY · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2008 11:09 pm

just keep in mind that CO2 is liquid, it goes thru funky changes as temparature varies. I ran a 20lb in my KJ and I recently changed to Nitrogen, due to the moisture destroying the seals in my power tools, it is a bit more expensive to refill but I save in the long run. In fact Im thinking of selling it , the only thing is that my local body shop did a paint job on it to match the colors of my KJ. If anyone is interested I can post pictures.

QuestMan · **Posted:** Wed Jul 09, 2008 11:21 pm

Quote:

just keep in mind that CO2 is liquid, it goes thru funky changes as temparature varies. I ran a 20lb in my KJ and I recently changed to Nitrogen, due to the moisture destroying the seals in my power tools, it is a bit more expensive to refill but I save in the long run. In fact Im thinking of selling it , the only thing is that my local body shop did a paint job on it to match the colors of my KJ. If anyone is interested I can post pictures.

I'd never heard of CO2 ruining the seals on tools before. In any case, the majority of my usage is going to be in the neighborhood of, "Hey! I've only got 18 psi in my tires, and I want to get back on the Highway, now that I'm finished for the day at Silver Lake! :wink:

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2008 12:04 am

If CO2 kills seals what would the effect be on the differentials? I plan on using CO2 to power air lockers.......some day! :lol:

Terry

LIV42DY · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:27 am

this is the second reason I got rid of the co2, I have a back up conection for the Nitrogen in case I loose the comp for my lockers. My Gear guy said that moisture will get into the Diff. if I used the co2.

tommudd · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:44 am

LIV42DY wrote:

this is the second reason I got rid of the co2, I have a back up conection for the Nitrogen in case I loose the comp for my lockers. My Gear guy said that moisture will get into the Diff. if I used the co2.

so any one else ever heard of these problems or the introduction of moisture into the system from CO2 tanks, ????????

jason thompson · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:15 pm

tommudd wrote:

LIV42DY wrote:

this is the second reason I got rid of the co2, I have a back up conection for the Nitrogen in case I loose the comp for my lockers. My Gear guy said that moisture will get into the Diff. if I used the co2.

so any one else ever heard of these problems or the introduction of moisture into the system from CO2 tanks, ????????

never heard of it
I know that mine gets a good frost on it some times but the air ,by nature, will be dry
is is a gas that is formed from the liquid evaporating
I know that sounds wet but as long as you dont have water H2O in you system then you will not have an issue
Put it like this I live in south Louisiana and the humidity is always very high my shop compressors at work always need to be drained of water ,out of the tank and NO separators can no keep up, and we have used the same impacts for 10 years and the seals are still good
some times you can see moisture at the exhaust on them but they still work
now I do oil them at least once a month

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:34 pm

Fulltimer wrote:

If CO2 kills seals what would the effect be on the differentials? I plan on using CO2 to power air lockers.......some day! :lol:

Terry

You will be fine,many poeple here in CO use CO2 sytems to operate there ARB's and have no problems.

Quote:

LIV42DY

just keep in mind that CO2 is liquid, it goes thru funky changes as temparature varies. I ran a 20lb in my KJ and I recently changed to Nitrogen, due to the moisture destroying the seals in my power tools, it is a bit more expensive to refill but I save in the long run. In fact Im thinking of selling it , the only thing is that my local body shop did a paint job on it to match the colors of my KJ. If anyone is interested I can post pictures.

UUUUMMMMMMMM......................

CO2 is a bit different from H2O,and CO2 system will not destroy your seals.What did in your seals was the extreme cold they where subjected to from constant use of CO2.

Plus you don't get near the same capicity from Nitrogen as you do with CO2.

QuestMan · **Posted:** Fri Jul 11, 2008 7:23 pm

I originally thoiugh of getting one my scuba tanks and finding a way to use it but.......I didn't know how to step the pressure down from 2200psi to 150, and I haven't had them hydro-tested in 15-20 years. They'll still work, I'm sure, but by the time I got one hydroed and converted, I thought I'd be looking at the same outlay. Besides, using my rewards points worked out even better!

CO2 - 10# Tank vs. 20# Tank

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