Must mean a cutting torch? Makes sense I guess, but I don't have access to one of these either. I think the soak and pound method is going to have to work!

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2003 Renegade 4X4 5-Speed, Bright Silver *TRADED for 2013 Wrangler*
PIAA 520 Auxiliary Lights
Garmin GPSMAP 76S
DynoMax Ultra Flow SS Muffler
Amsoil Ea "Absolute Efficiency" Air Filter
Nokian Vatiiva 235/70/R16 Tires
Pixeldzn's "RENEGADE" decals
Support the 2nd Amendment - It's your right!

AKA "the blue wrench",AKA a torch.

Hey everybody, thanks for all the help. I ended up going the low tech route with the BFH, which finally worked. The problem turned out to be the emergency brake after all. When I got the rotors off, the e-brake liners literally fell out! All the adjusting in the world wouldn't have freed them as they were completely gone and it seemed like they were hyper-extended! They were about ready to pop out of the notches they sit in at the top. I'll be replacing these soon, needless to say, so watch for a post similar to this one in the near future, haha (by the by, if anyone has any helpful info on replacing the e-brake , please please please pass it on, as I can use all the help I can get with this one - I've never done e-brakes before on a disk-brake vehicle). I don't know hat happened, but the rear brakes were at their last miles of pad without hitting metal, however my front pads looked as though they had about 20,000 miles on them as opposed to the 65,000+ that the Jeep has on it (Original brakes - I love 5-speeds) so I didn't bother replacing them. I simply switched the inside pad to the outside on each one, since both sets were worn evenly however the outside pad was wearing faster than the inside one on each side. Guess I need to bleed the brakes, huh? The pedal has been a bit soft lately. So again, thank you everyone for input, and pass on any tips or info you think might come in handy for replacing the emergency brake pads.

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2003 Renegade 4X4 5-Speed, Bright Silver *TRADED for 2013 Wrangler*
PIAA 520 Auxiliary Lights
Garmin GPSMAP 76S
DynoMax Ultra Flow SS Muffler
Amsoil Ea "Absolute Efficiency" Air Filter
Nokian Vatiiva 235/70/R16 Tires
Pixeldzn's "RENEGADE" decals
Support the 2nd Amendment - It's your right!

I don't know if swapping the pads outside to in is a good idea. I'm not sure about this but I always leave used pads where they are because they wear w/ the rotor and it might affect stopping power. I would either replace them or leave them be. Let us know how the e-brake change goes. I have never done that either so I'm interested in how it is to replace em.

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2006 Jeep Liberty 65th Edition, 4x4, Auto
Mopar Borla Single Side Exhaust
Mopar Full Skids and Tow Hooks

1991 Pontiac Firebird, 305TBI w/ 5 spd manual, Black w/ T-Tops, Pretty much all stock

LilredLibby over in the Southeastern part of the state we always used a "hot wrench" duh... must be the same thing as the "gas hatchet"

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Good one Tom,I've never heard of that one either.I guess all this slang means that none of us like to here the words.....
"GET THE TOURCH!!!!!!!!"

Ron

P.S.....Savage Urge,did'nt mean to highjack your post.Just find a mechanic friend to help you out,cause I admire your will to work on your jeep yourself,and with a little guidence,you'll turn out to be a good mechanic.

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Ron
03 Red Libberty Sport
3.7 V6 Auto 4x4
Lifted
Cooper Discover ATRs 265/75/16
American Racing 16x8 Polished Baja Wheels
Moog Lower Ball Joints
Member#051397 L.O.S.T. Midwest

Hi SavageUrge

Looks like you have the same issue as I have with my e-brakes (see my post of Yesterday)
At the top of the E-brakes is the little scissors shaped mechanism with a spring that moves the pads, you need to take the spring off and take the mechanism out, you will need 3 hands a large screw driver to push it out, have not done it my self but seen my mechanic do it several times already, it is a bit of a fiddle.
This scissors shaped piece should move freely (like scissors) when taken out if not it is rusted stuck and you need a blow torch to get it moving, don't worry if it falls apart in two pieces, clean them both with a wire brush, put them together again and push it back into position.
This will keep your e-brake from sticking/rusting solid for a while but it will come back within a year and you have to do it all over again.

I'm trying to find a solution as I'm fed up having my e-brakes done every 10 months or so but so far nobody came up with one.

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The most repeated sentence I heard from my dealer was "I'm sorry YOU are not happy with our service" so it was still my fault.