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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 2:12 pm 
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TRAILIN
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Isn't spending $$$$$$$ on a new tool for a project half the fun?? :twisted:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 4:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 7:26 pm
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Location: Casper, Wyoming
Donkeykong wrote:
Joe, are you taking the fenders off? If you are, I would advise using a wax crayon or chalk to mark your line and get some quality shears to trim the fender, try and stay within 1/4" of the line and then use sandpaper to get it to the line. Just be careful not to sand the front because it will uglify the plastic.

You have the sport fenders? (not painted)

Just be careful not to crack the plastic. Shears (or tin snips) would definently work. Even large sicsors.

Also, depending on how you cut them, look into a shaviv deburring tool which will allow you to put a professional looking chamfer on the edge.
Image
Image
Just run it along the edge keeping the pressure even... the tool is around $10.00 and is very useful around the house for deburring pipe (copper, or PVC) and for any holes you might drill into metal.

I use mine all the time. The manufacturers website is http://www.shaviv.com
-Mark


I have three of those with the brass handles; one small, one large and one with a ratchet insert and a round 45° chamfer tool for drilled holes. I have them for work but, I wind up using them for my own stuff quite a bit, too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 5:38 pm 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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Location: Spokane, WA
Dave,

I did mine with the dremel and a fine cutting wheel, you saw how mine melted, so you need to be carefull. I would go with JJ's utility knife method, as your flares are painted. One trick the XJ guys use on their flares is to heat the backside with a heat gun, not to the point of melting just enough to get it warm, then the utility knife will cut through nice and smooth. I would recomend a new blade though.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 6:39 pm 
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LOST Junkie

Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 1:36 am
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wow that is one sweet tool! like a lite duty router for thin plastic, coolness

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 Post subject: Keyhole Saw
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 7:59 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, BC
here is my 2 cents....

the directions with the ARB recommend sawing
Liberty flares by hand with a Keyhole Saw...

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 Post subject: mini air jig saw and die grinder
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 12:21 am 
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For cutting plastic, I use an air jig saw. It is a tiny, lightwieght saw that is suited to fine work. After cutting plastic, I find that an air die-grinder on a lower speed does a good job of removing rough burs, while setting the grinder to high does a great job of melting plastic and leaving you with a smooth clean edge.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 12:30 am 
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Location: Utah "Logan"
I used a pair of dikes on my front bumper and they were awsome. I think I will try them on the rear fenders as well when I get my new rear bumper. I will let you know how it goes.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 7:51 am 
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If you are going the utility knife route, first buy some of the Irwin blue blades. Those things rock, stay sharp a long time and are ubreakable under stress of use. Plus if you go here you can get 5 free blades... http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jht ... tion.jhtml

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