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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 9:34 pm 
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Liberty&Freedom wrote:
Everyone is fine, the jeep is is good shape except for the wheel, studs and lugs. (very lucky)

Should I be worried about the other 15 studs and Lugs???

All 5 studs on that wheel were clean breaks. I've rotated my tires on my own since I bought the jeep new in 03 with no issues.

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tjkj2002 wrote:
The KJ's lugnuts should be torqued between 85-115lbs-ft.If you rotated then yourself you did not torque them properly and/or did not recheck the wheel torque after 50-100 miles later like you are supposed to.Sorry but it's all your fault and not someone elses when you did the work after someone else did.


Just because I did it myself does not mean that I did not torque them correctly. How would you know? No I didn't specifically say one way or the other, but it is possible for anyone to purchase a torque wrench, or torque sticks, and use them in their own garage properly, and without issue.

I'm not looking for a handout, just some honest opinions about whether or not they could have been over torqued to cause this failure.
When I've torqued them myself, I've never had any issues with my impact gun taking the lugs off. This last time, after being done by this shop, I could not get them off with my gun.

This was the first time this place ever did it for me. I've had other places do it when they've done alignments, and that's
why this place did it, and I have never had trouble getting the lugs off after it's been done before.
Please re-read my post, AND/OR is said in there.I did not directly say you did not properly torque them,it was one of 2 possibilities,the other was you did not re-check them.


Don't know where you guy's are going but my shop it is mandatory to use a calibrated torque wrench(shop supplied),then you must have another person re-torque the lugnuts and sign off on the work ticket with the stated torque used(via OEM torque spec chart). Oh and it's a national store and that is company policy and are reminded everyday of it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 12:21 am 
tjkj2002 wrote:

Don't know where you guy's are going but my shop it is mandatory to use a calibrated torque wrench(shop supplied),then you must have another person re-torque the lugnuts and sign off on the work ticket with the stated torque used(via OEM torque spec chart). Oh and it's a national store and that is company policy and are reminded everyday of it.


+1, people get fired over that doo doo


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 2:27 am 
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It's not possible to check the torque by just using a torque wrench to verify -- one would have to loosen and re-torque the wheels. Otherwise the "verification" would only prove the wheels were tight enough. If the torque was above the setting (too tight) it would still be passed. So re checking is most likely just checking to be sure they are tight enough--not over tightened.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 2:50 am 
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i started using a torque wrench or bar after i busted a dudes fancy arse rim and had to pay for it :lol:

which shouldnt have happened anyway, i had just forgotten to turn the gun down to 80 instead of 200

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 8:30 am 
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The gun should only be used to run the nut up on to a point , ( which is not tighter than factory specs) then the final would be done with a torque wrench , it would not be hammered on and then use a torque wrench to check it like Neal suggests.
Difference between a quality shop and one thats only in it for the money :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 8:45 am 
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Maximum Carnage wrote:
I have yet to see a shop use a torque wrench to tighten lugs nuts.


Then you need to find another shop! I've watched the mechanics at my local "Discount Tire" and they use a torque wrench on every lug nut they touch.. after putting them on with a impact wrench. I'm not sure if they use torque sticks or not on the impact wrench :wink: Maybe they knew I was watching :roll: Lugs coming loose on Aluminum wheels are a common known problem and the torque must be checked after 50-100 miles. I'm sure it's in the owners manual someplace 8)

Now everyone go out and check these chrome nuts :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 1:16 pm 
Neal wrote:
It's not possible to check the torque by just using a torque wrench to verify -- one would have to loosen and re-torque the wheels. Otherwise the "verification" would only prove the wheels were tight enough. If the torque was above the setting (too tight) it would still be passed. So re checking is most likely just checking to be sure they are tight enough--not over tightened.


Actually, if you set the torque wrench a bit higher than the previous guy...that will tell you.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 1:20 pm 
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well if its clickin at 5 to 10 over what it's supposta max be at.. :P

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 11:16 pm 
Joe Romas wrote:
Maximum Carnage wrote:
I have yet to see a shop use a torque wrench to tighten lugs nuts.


Then you need to find another shop! I've watched the mechanics at my local "Discount Tire" and they use a torque wrench on every lug nut they touch.. after putting them on with a impact wrench. I'm not sure if they use torque sticks or not on the impact wrench :wink: Maybe they knew I was watching :roll: Lugs coming loose on Aluminum wheels are a common known problem and the torque must be checked after 50-100 miles. I'm sure it's in the owners manual someplace 8)

Now everyone go out and check these chrome nuts :lol:


True. I once worked at a tire shop (Kal Tire) and we used a torque wrench. I'd be surprised if any of the major tire shops don't use a torque wrench.

It is still possible to over tighten with a torque wrench if you over tighten with the lug gun first and then check it with the torque wrench without backing it off first and calling it good. The torque wrench protects you from under tightening, not over tightening.

Sometimes some of my lug nuts are tight on removal too. I always torque them to 100 ft-ibs. My new air tool makes it a lot easier for removal though.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2009 11:28 pm 
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icarl wrote:
Joe Romas wrote:
Maximum Carnage wrote:
I have yet to see a shop use a torque wrench to tighten lugs nuts.


Then you need to find another shop! I've watched the mechanics at my local "Discount Tire" and they use a torque wrench on every lug nut they touch.. after putting them on with a impact wrench. I'm not sure if they use torque sticks or not on the impact wrench :wink: Maybe they knew I was watching :roll: Lugs coming loose on Aluminum wheels are a common known problem and the torque must be checked after 50-100 miles. I'm sure it's in the owners manual someplace 8)

Now everyone go out and check these chrome nuts :lol:


True. I once worked at a tire shop (Kal Tire) and we used a torque wrench. I'd be surprised if any of the major tire shops don't use a torque wrench.

It is still possible to over tighten with a torque wrench if you over tighten with the lug gun first and then check it with the torque wrench without backing it off first and calling it good. The torque wrench protects you from under tightening, not over tightening.

Sometimes some of my lug nuts are tight on removal too. I always torque them to 100 ft-ibs. My new air tool makes it a lot easier for removal though.
I use my electric 1/4" impact driver,never gets them over 50lbs-ft tight then I use a torque wrench.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2009 1:25 pm 
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thanks for all the replies everyone......now I have a new issue.

The rim that came off is damaged beyond safe usage. does anyone know where I can get a stock Freedom edition wheel??
here's a photo of the wheel
Image
Borrowed from a website that had this jeep for sale. (not my jeep)


17"x7 graphite 6 spoke.
My spare (wheel) is currently one of the four on the ground, and I am without a spare. Jeep looks goofy without the wheel & tire back there.

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 Post subject: TORQUE WRENCH your Wheels
PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 3:12 am 
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I had a similar situation where a shop (national chain franchise) mounted my tires on new rims for me but just used their air powered wrench to put the the lugs on (as I found out afterwards) Immediately after, I started to notice vibration when driving. When I checked ALL 4 wheels, most of the lugs were loose as I could rotate them by hand. :evil: :evil:

After tightening them, I took it back to the owner of the shop and he said that they should have used a torque stick but when I spoke to the mechanic, he admitted that their air compressor was leaking or not working for a week which clearly indicated to me that they NEVER did use a torque wrench.

I was really upset because of they put my family and I at risk and also since they could have stripped the wheel lug well on the alloy wheels or worse.

Needless to say, I don't use that shop any longer.

I highly recommend asking the actual mechanic working on the vehicle either before or after he does the job, "what torque setting did he calibrate the wrench to?" or better still tell him what it should be!!

Icarl, I find that Kal Tire and Costco are very good at using a torque wrench whereas other tire shops may be hit and miss.

L&F, why not put the spare tire/wheel on and find another Liberty 17" wheel/tire (chrome, silver if you can't find an identical match) as I think yours may not be as common. You may want to check Ebay for the wheel too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:25 pm 
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I guess I'm doing it all wrong, I use an electric impact wrench to mount my wheels on my Jeeps. I suppose my wheels won't fly off but I'm probably warping my rotors. I know I'm beating up my nuts....my lug nuts :D
Now where did I put my torque wrench???

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 9:06 pm 
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I too work at a chain store.

we torque all wheels with a torque stick, and then verify with a torque wrench.

A torque stick only allows the lugs to go so tight, the torque wrench tightens it the rest of the way.

No one ever stops to think that studs should be replaced after so many on/off's of the lug nuts. You dont reuse head bolts when rebuilding an engine becuase they stretch. Studs do the same thing and therefore in theory should be replaced every so often as well.

I blame over tightening the most for studs that break off while driving. But it isnt the ONLY reason they break off.

Had the wheel came off BEFORE you rotated them it would have been the shops fault but since you had the wheel off before it happened legally it is your fualt.

Would you blame the shop if your engine lost its oil becuase you changed the oil after they did?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 9:27 pm 
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offroadohio wrote:



No one ever stops to think that studs should be replaced after so many on/off's of the lug nuts. You dont reuse head bolts when rebuilding an engine becuase they stretch. Studs do the same thing and therefore in theory should be replaced every so often as well.

I blame over tightening the most for studs that break off while driving. But it isnt the ONLY reason they break off.



A little unkown fact...........

Bolt stretch
Measuring bolt stretch requires the use of a bolt-stretch gage (with a dial indicator). This application is for high performance connecting rod bolts and engines that are disassembled on a regular basis.
This allows the technician to achieve the highest tensile strength (yield point) of the bolt with a high level of consistency. The bolt manufacturer will specify the amount of stretch.


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