Went To Add Oil - Uh Oh! - Updated with PICS

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Thu Feb 01, 2007 6:45 pm

merchjo wrote:

Hey LostRenegade

I had the same thing happen as you, I replaced the PCV valve and it stopped. The crap clogged the PCV valve. YOu might want to try that.

How hard or easy is it to change the PCV valve? Never changed one...

tcas1355 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:31 pm

I would keep an eye on that if I were you. My gf blew a head gasket and cracked a head with 86,000 miles on it. it first started out running a little rough. Didn't seem too bad. Fluids looked OK, so I just figured she needed some fuel system cleaner. One week later, we had a P0301 code. It still wasn't really running too bad, but I changed the plugs anyway. Fluids STILL looked good !!! Few days later, it started to run pretty rough. I knew we had problems then. Had a P0303 code. Took it to my friends shop. We pulled off the head and discovered a cracked head between cylinders 1 and 3. Local dealer wanted $440 for the head, and I can't remember what the gasket set was. I ended up buying a motor out of a wrecked Liberty with 24,000 miles on it for $750. No problems since. Get scared every time it runs even a little rough though.

tcas1355 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:46 pm

Forgot to add on my last post that when I got the P0303 code, that was when I noticed my coolant level went low. My coolant level dropped pretty quick. I guess I should have been watching it more closely since I began to have issues with it. Oh well.

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Fri Feb 02, 2007 6:35 pm

I replaced the PCV valve. It is only an $8 part. The milky white stuff was back. It was also in the valve and into the vacuum hose that connects to it.

Engine is running great still. I will definately be watching it....

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Sat Feb 03, 2007 6:35 am

Changing the PCV valve is important but very neglected. I had a reputable mechanic tell me that a clogged PCV will cause serious engine problems including sludge build up. He also said that a bad or malfunctioning PCV will reduce fuel economy and overall engine performance. Some people say if you pull the PCV out and shake it you can determine if it is good or not. If it rattles, then it is in good working condition. That same mechanic told me that this is not a true way to test it. Often times a PVC valve that rattles doesn’t mean it is functioning properly. He recommended replacing the PCV at least every 15,000 miles. When I had my Tahoe, I replaced it every 10,000 miles and I had 247,000 miles on it when I sold it. I also used Amsoil 0W-30 as I am also using the 0W-30 in the Jeep Liberty. From what I have researched, the 0W-30 by Amsoil is probably the best motor oil for our engines. In the Tahoe I changed it once a year, but I also lived in New Mexico at 7,000 feet and put on lots of miles. I am living in Missouri now, but plan to move back to New Mexico within a year. In the Mid West I tend to change my oil in gasoline engines much sooner as I am paranoid of condensation. I’m am going to install a Dual Remote by-pass on the Liberty once I find a place to mount it. Here is a link that gives you more detail, signs, and symptoms of a failing PCV. With today’s emission laws so tight, our motors run on a very fine line, which takes proper maintenance to a new level.
http://www.jiflube.com/myhtml/questions/question10.html

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 03, 2007 10:18 am

Most PCV valves are spring loaded with a little button on the bottom. When the engine is running, the crank case gasses push on that button (and spring) and make the valve open so they can escape and then be re-entered back into the intake for re-combustion. Overtime, that spring gets worn out and that is where the shaking of the valve comes in... While not a very acurate way to determine the functionallity - you could compare a new PCV valve with an old one to hear for any differences. But since the part is so cheap - just replace it.

THis picture is from something else, but you can see the filler neck. There is a off-shoot of plastic on the passenger side of the neck and this is where the valve attaches (you can kind of see the rubber hose going to the valve as well.) The valve just pulls out of the off-shoot and off the hose to replace

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Sat Feb 03, 2007 11:17 am

Thanks for all the help. The PCV valve is changed. I will be keeping a real close eye on it to see what it is doing.

Thanks,

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:55 pm

I am still getting moisture in my oil. Every time I take the oil cap off, there is condensation on the cap. I noticed that my coolent level was a little low. Not much, maybe 1/2 inch noticable in the overflow tank. Engine is still running fine.

What are some options to stop this? What could be the main cause?

I was thinking about putting a low temp thermostat in to help reduce coolant pressure. Would that help?

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 25, 2007 10:16 pm

The condinsation is a result of the water contained in the oil vapor - the best thing I can suggest is trying to get the engine as warm as possible before turning it off again to help reduce the oil vapor / water turning into condinsation after the engine is shut off and cools back down...??

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:27 pm

My anti-freeze was alittle low after 3 years. I filled it back up not long ago, so the low anti-freeze isnt anything to worry about unless it keeps dropping over a short period of time.

I was cleaning my engine the other day and I noticed that the vacuum tube was off on the air-box..

Im not to sure how long it has been like that. The picture of that PCV valve made me think about it.

Went To Add Oil - Uh Oh! - Updated with PICS

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