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| Synthetic oil vs. regular oil http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13516 |
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| Author: | Combat Vet [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Synthetic oil vs. regular oil |
Hi all, I tried doing a search but found nothing on topic. What is the difference between using synthetic oil vs. regular besides the price? My point: Is using synthetic better? Thanks, Kevin |
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| Author: | DarbyWalters [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 2:00 pm ] |
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Synthetic will out perform Dino... If you take the price of Dino...say $2 a quart against the price of Synthetic...say $6 a quart...you will be able to run the synthetic at least 3 times longer with proper care...so the price issue is kinda mute. If you take a great synthetic like AMSOIL , and spin a new oil filter on every 3,000-4,000 miles and top off to bring back to normal level...you can easily go 12,000 miles even in a Diesel. Properties of a good synthetic are just better: Low Volatility Does not Shear easily Resistant to Temperature Breakdown Better Lubrication Better Pour at low temperatures Keeps Weight rating at higher temperatures Ect Ect Ect |
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| Author: | Wasatch15 [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 2:16 pm ] |
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I have experienced many years and many vehicles that I have used the 3,000 / 12,000 method (change filter at 3K,6K, 9K, total dump at 12K). None of the vehicles ever had any engine oil related problems. An added bonus is the cold weather starting, no slow turn over. If you try this, you will get tired of your vehicle and sell it before you experience any engine problems. Used to use Mobil 1 synthetic, now use Amsoil. You may also want to look into a bypass filter for extreme oil cleaning. |
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| Author: | psinsyd [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 2:17 pm ] |
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Yeah, what Darby said. I always use synthetic in my vehicles. Usually, if I get a vehicle brand new, and it comes with conventional oil, I'll change the oil at 1500 miles with conventional, then at 3000 I'll do another conventional. After that, it's synthetic from there on out. I think they recommend using conventional for the first @ 2 oil changes on a brand new or newly rebuilt motor so that the rings seat properly. Hope this helps! 
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| Author: | detroit_doc [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 2:21 pm ] |
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I'm not an oil expert, but I did some research a while back and I'll try to recall what I found. Also, my memory stinks, so this might not be 100% accurate, but the jist is correct. I suggest you do a little digging on the internet and you should be able to find the exact information for yourself. It seems that due to some legal wranglings, and game playing that "synthetics" are not always fully synthetic anymore. Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, etc are now blends. They used to be fully synthetic, but one of the manufacturers started blending so they could sell it cheaper. Another manufacturer (Mobil?) sued them and lost. So now mobil joined them and do the same exact thing. If someone has the links to the stories on this I'd appreciate it as I've lost all this info over the years. Anyway to make a long story short, the Mobil 1s and Castrol Syntec's aren't any better than a good GF-4 rated dyno oil because they are no longer a true synthetic. I don't remember all the specifics but I recall that both dyno and syn blends (mobil 1, syntec) they use the same hydrocracked base stock, blah, blah, blah. In fact in the oil anylsis's I've read, Havoline GF4 dyno oil performed the best due to a very high moly content compared to other oils. The true fully synthetic oils (Amsoil, Redline, etc) do perform better if you are using extended drain periods, but at a much greater expense. If you do not run extended drain intervals, they may not offer much benefit over a good GF-4 dyno oil. After wading through all the chemistry mumbo jumbo, I switched to Havoline GF-4 and haven't looked back. It's very reasonably priced. |
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| Author: | sleeve84028 [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 2:25 pm ] |
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www.bobistheoilguy.com Do some light reading here before falling asleep at the computer. Plenty of good information about oils and such. Syntheic is better for sure, but there is nothing wrong with the dinosaur oil either. I have run "basic" oil in my liberty for the past 4 years without any problems. Just change it every 3,000 miles and move on. In the wifes car - I run syntheic because sometimes she forgets to tell me when it's time for an oil change. |
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| Author: | Jeepjeepster [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 3:23 pm ] |
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Ive never heard that Mobil is not full syn. It says right on the bottle that it is. They would be getting sued left and right if it wasnt. 
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| Author: | detroit_doc [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 3:36 pm ] |
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Jeepjeepster wrote: Ive never heard that Mobil is not full syn. It says right on the bottle that it is. They would be getting sued left and right if it wasnt.
You think so? Read this... http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp ... le_id=3631 The fact of the matter is they are playing "semantic' games. Mobil 1 and Syntec do not use the same base stock as Redline and Amsoil, but they used to. ** Disclaimer - I am no expert ** I'm just pointing out that you need to know what it is you are buying. |
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| Author: | Combat Vet [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 3:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | thanks |
everyone. I was also going to ask whether better to change at 3000K or 5000K which the dealer recomends now. Kevin |
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| Author: | Bernardio [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 4:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
That's some interesting info. I've always used mobile1 fully synthetic in my cars, but now I might just switch to something cheaper if it really doesn't make that much of a difference. Heck, I may even give up the duty of changing my own oils and used what's on tap at the local Jiffy Lube! |
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| Author: | detroit_doc [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 4:08 pm ] |
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After some more research I'm still not clear if Mobil 1 is a true synthetic (i.e. no mineral oil). I had heard that when Mobil 1 lost it's case with NAD against Castrol, that it followed suit and started using a cheaper mineral oil hydrocracked base stock. But that could just be hearsay because I can't seem to find any proof of it. At least as of 1999 Mobil 1 was still PAO (i.e. not mineral oil) based. So Mobil 1 may still be in the category of Amsoil and Redline (i.e. no mineral oil). However Castol Syntec "synthetic" is definately mineral oil based. The industry still allows them to call it a synthetic, but in my book, it's just expensive mineral oil. If anyone can point me to some definitive proof if Mobil 1 is PAO based or it's hydrocracked mineral oil based I'd appreciate it. |
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| Author: | hooperswish [ Wed Oct 18, 2006 1:08 pm ] |
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Check out mobil site www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Syn ... etics.aspx It states: To meet the demanding requirements of today's specifications (and our customers' expectations), Mobil 1® uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs), along with a proprietary system of additives. Each Mobil 1 viscosity grade uses a unique combination of synthetic fluids and selected additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its specific application. The nice thing about Mobil 1 is that I can get it any where without worrying about shipping or jumping through hoops i.e. signing up at Amsoil for a fee.... I think that the benefits of cold weather start up make synthetic the better way to go hands down, regardless of the added cost. I plan on driving my Libby a long time... Steve 
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| Author: | detroit_doc [ Wed Oct 18, 2006 4:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Mobil 1® uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs),
PAOs are what the average consumer considered to be synthetic. Once Castol muddied up the waters, now hydrocracked mineral oil can also be called synthetic (but it really still is dyno oil). Mobil 1 and Castol used to use 100% PAO base stock. Based on that quote from Mobil 1 it sounds like that their base stock is no longer 100% PAOs. And I bet that the other "high-performance fluids" they are refering to are hydrocracked mineral oil (i.e. dyno oil). |
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| Author: | Guyute1210 [ Thu Oct 19, 2006 11:57 am ] |
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I use Amsoil, and absolutly love it. It's in all my vehicles. I like the extended drain intervals. Also, if you factor in the cost of each oil change, even with the $20 you pay to Amsoil to get the dealer/preferred member pricing, it's still cheaper in the long run than dino or any other synthetic AND you get the best protection out there... Ask JJ'sKJ if you have any questions... |
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