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| cruise control troubleshooting http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19368 |
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| Author: | cowpie [ Fri Apr 06, 2007 12:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | cruise control troubleshooting |
I have a 2002 3.7L KJ. The cruise control on/off switch "works" as I can see the green cruise light illuminate on the cluster. However, the "set" switch does not set the cruise. I'm hoping someone here can point me in the direction of a few mechanical and electrical test points to troubleshoot the cruise control system. The chilton/ hayes type books at the public library are of no help so far, and with April 17th approaching fast, I can't afford a factory service manual. I have checked all associated fuses and have applied dielectric grease to all associated electrical plugs. I just don't know which wires to probe. Add to the fact I have to be doing ~40mph to probe said wires and im going nuts here. I hope someone can help. |
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| Author: | corwyyn [ Fri Apr 06, 2007 3:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Another area to check would be vacuum hoses - the system runs on vacuum so any disconnected hoses could lead to a similar situation. This is from my FSM: DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ROAD TEST Perform a vehicle road test to verify reports of speed control system malfunction. The road test should include attention to the speedometer. Speedometer operation should be smooth and without flutter at all speeds. Flutter in the speedometer indicates a problem which might cause surging in the speed control system. The cause of any speedometer problems should be corrected before proceeding. Refer to Group 8J, Instrument Cluster for speedometer diagnosis. If a road test verifies a system problem and the speedometer operates properly, check for: ² A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). If a DTC exists, conduct tests per the Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures service manual. ² A misadjusted brake (stop) lamp switch. This could also cause an intermittent problem. ² Loose, damaged or corroded electrical connections at the servo. Corrosion should be removed from electrical terminals and a light coating of Mopar MultiPurpose Grease, or equivalent, applied. ² Leaking vacuum reservoir. ² Loose or leaking vacuum hoses or connections. ² Defective one-way vacuum check valve. ² Secure attachment of both ends of the speed control servo cable. ² Smooth operation of throttle linkage and throttle body air valve. ² Failed speed control servo. Do the servo vacuum test. CAUTION: When test probing for voltage or continuity at electrical connectors, care must be taken not to damage connector, terminals or seals. If these components are damaged, intermittent or complete system failure may occur. |
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| Author: | welby [ Fri Apr 06, 2007 6:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Have you checked the cable on the throttle body linkage? Mine popped off on me before, it just pops right back on. |
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| Author: | cowpie [ Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the suggestions so far, I spent most of the weekend testing it. The "set" switch does make contact. I took apart the steering wheel and tested all the switches for contact. They all work properly. There are no vacuum leaks. I tested several connections with a hand vacuum pump. The cruise vacuum unit works smoothly as does the cable. I have read some other threads that suggested some brake control unit. If that were acting up, wouldn't I have brake light problems? I also read about bad clock springs. How many wires are on the clock spring? My horn still works so there is contact in that part of the clock spring. |
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