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 Post subject: How do I fix this??
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:05 pm 
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The bolt hole is broken where the stock roof rails go when I put the bolt in it just spins, should I put a small bead of weld around it??? :? Its ony the one thats all messs up, me being a huge idiot tried to put a small bead on it so it would not move and actually got it AND the washer on the bolt so I had to whip out the grinder :evil: the hole thing just ticked me off! but i finally got it out

also somehow I got that crack in the first pic what should I do about it? weld? rust protectant and leave?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:28 pm 
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ya I had some fun with those things when I replaced the roof panel on my CRD, IMO the easyer solution would be to put some JB weld on the underside, pull the headliner down and you can get to it from below.

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 Post subject: Helicoil
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:53 pm 
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A product called Helicoil corrects many sins it basically is just a thread kit that screws into the existing threads and is then reusable . Oh yea you will probably have to drill it out then out in your helicoil and your good to go. If you can't find them check with snap-on tools.
hope this helped. :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 10:05 pm 
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is there a way i can fix it w/o removing the headliner?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 10:13 pm 
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If you can drill it to the proper size required for the Helicoil, you can do it from the outside. if the whole thing is spinning free though, you'll have to tack it in place, then be able to drill. The Helicoil installs just like a screw. Screw it into the proper size hole then back out the installer. Leaves you with a threaded insert.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 10:18 pm 
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You can't use a Helicoil in that spot,the metal is not thick enough,it's only like 1/16" or just slightly thicker.USAFCOP had the same problem and just drilled out the hole and used a 3/8" bolt and washer,though you can't do that if using the stock rails(not that big of bolt at least).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 10:19 pm 
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Now this is one cool video:

http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv

This shows an actual install:

http://ural.wikispaces.com/helicoil

I've used these on motorcycle heads and they work great!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 10:27 pm 
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Oh well. My post was in process when tjkj's went through. Didn't realize the metal was that thin.
(The video is still cool though! - Except where they show the space shuttle. Like someone would use a Helicoil fix in a space shuttle!)

Why not just drill out the insert all the way, Get a thin metal plate trimmed just under the size of the footprint of the foot that's going over it so it's hidden, and tack a threaded insert into the plate. Drop the insert into the existing hole so the plate sits on the roof and tack it in place. Won't the foot of the rail hide the plate?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 10:29 pm 
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its not spinning freely just whenever i tighten it too much or try to remove the bolt
what can i do about the crack? jb weld on it?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 7:02 am 
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I would take it to a body shop... have it cleaned up for them (no paint) and they could TIG it in 2 minutes. I would think it shouldnt be more than a 5-10 dollar job, but who knows.

Wait...you have a welder? Practice some more on some scrap metal and DIY!

That will fix that crack... A new nutzert could fix the threads, but you may as well just tack that one in place while you are welding.

Double EDIT :) I would want to pull the headliner down and use a welding blanket to protect things while welding if you go that route.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 8:08 am 
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Chances are the nutzert and the roof metal are dis-similar metals and will be difficult to weld very well. I would remove the headliner, drill out the nutzert, tack in a new piece of good sheetmetal, grind it smooth, prime and paint it and then use the roof rack as a template to relocate a new hole in the new steel and use a NEW nutzert.

Time consuming but better chance of no leaks and better repair.

Since you have a welder....

Why not do it right the first time.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 2:55 pm 
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its not stripped, would it work if i just put jb weld on the crack and around the gold peice where the bolt goes into?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 3:21 pm 
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I told ya how I would repair it.

JB works great under ideal conditions. Most of the time, I have found that if you take the time to do it right the first time you wont have to do it again, and in this case have a leak with rust with a damaged headliner and THEN have to go back and do it the way i suggested but be out a hell of a lot more money.

you choose.

If you are looking for somebody to say "Sure use JB weld" then I will say it

Sure use JB weld. but be prepared to do it again and again and again.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 3:31 pm 
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it doesnt leak, alright im not sure what im going to do and im not to worried b/c when i put my roof rack up there i dont plan on taking it back off


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 Post subject: PC-7
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 11:05 pm 
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Years ago I was a manager in a hardware stores paint department. Learned about many products that some never heard of but are still availble. One product was called STEEL-IT, a rattle can paint available in both standard paint and HI-TEMP. It's a paint with particles of Stanless steel in the paint. But the next product was called PC-7 Epoxy. This Semi-Paste epoxy has a Black and light grey 2 part mix to soft for play-do consistancy, to solid to be liquid. Once set up you could sand it, file it, even drill it out and tap & die it. One of their sales tools was a pop bottle with the epoxy gluing a shelf attached to the bottle and you could stand on the shelf. We in the store filled a peice of 1" pipe with it after it had cured, drilled a hole and then tapped it out with a standard screw thread. We then put a big bolt threaded in and locked it in a vice. You could beat it pull on it hammer it but as hard as you tried it was extremely difficult to strip the threads out that we had out in. After 30 years I have yet to find a epoxy with the same characteristics. JB weld comes real close just more putty like.


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