It is currently Mon Nov 09, 2026 12:40 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Removing Powder Coating?
PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 4:40 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member

Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 5:04 pm
Posts: 1557
Location: Louisville, KY
What is the best way to strip off powder coating,

Say you have you hands on a used ARB bumper and want to clean it up and change the color.

What is the best way to get this stuff off?

_________________
'07 Ltd 3.7L, Black, OME HD's, OME shocks, Mopar Skids, AEV Bridgers w/ TPMS, Kumho KL78's, ARB Bumper, KC 130 Watters, Warn M8000 Winch, Rock Lizard Gecko Roof Basket KC 150 watters, Cobra 75WSX, 3 ft FireFly, RL Super Step Skinks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 4:42 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 10:26 pm
Posts: 2133
Location: Sin City USA
sandblast it :twisted: Seriously though, I read some where that you have to have it stripped and sandblasted to get that stuff off.


Question: What methods are available for removing cured powder coatings, and what are the pros and cons of these methods? Thanks in advance. B.D.

Answer: Now here’s a great topic that we haven’t discussed before. Every powder coater has to face this problem eventually, either for cleaning racks and hangers or stripping parts that were rejected. In either case, the methods remain the same. The only exception is when a part requires spot repair. In this case, the defect area is usually sanded to bare metal, feathering the edges to ensure that the area will blend into the surrounding surface. The part should be processed and fully covered after sanding to complete the repair. Liquid touchup paint can be substituted for the powder coating if the repaired area is relatively small.

Now we can deal with stripping methods, which by definition require the complete removal of all the powder coating from the part or hanger. Stripping methods can be broken down into four general categories: mechanical; thermal; thermochemical; and chemical. We will examine each of these separately and discuss their drawbacks.

Mechanical stripping methods entail the use of blasting media. This media can be sand, water, CO2 pellets, glass bead, steel shot, plastic media, slag, oxides, garnet, etc. As the name implies, these media are “shot” at the coated surface, removing the coating via abrasion. Choosing the right media will affect both the speed of coating removal and the profile left on the part’s surface. The most aggressive blast media will remove the coating the fastest but can leave the roughest profile on the metal’s surface. This is not normally a problem when this method is used to clean racks and hangers but can be detrimental to the surface of a repaired part. There are more gentle blasting media, like plastic media, that can strip the coating and leave the product surface with a smooth profile. But, cleaning time with these materials can be a bit longer. Sometimes this method is used in conjunction with other stripping methods, such as removing the ash left on a product that was thermally cleaned. Mechanical cleaning systems can be automated or batch operations.

Thermal cleaning methods use heat to breakdown the coating and turn it into an ash residue, usually removed by water or media blasting. There are three types of thermal cleaning methods: bake-off; burn-off; and fluidized bed. The key to this method of stripping is that the hangers or parts must be resistant to the temperatures employed in the process. Parts that are made of magnesium or have soldered joints would not be good candidates for this stripping process, since temperatures can be as high as 1,200F.

Bake-off stripping systems are batch-type processes where parts and/or hangers/racks are loaded into the oven for cleaning. The oven temperature is set between 650-750F, which is generally the temperature where the coating will degrade and eventually ignite. The byproducts of this process (VOCs) are often destroyed by afterburners in the exhaust stack. These ovens usually employ water-misting systems to control the rate of burning and prevent damage to the equipment or parts/hangers being stripped. This process will not completely strip the product to bare metal, and the residual ash must be removed to prevent fouling of subsequent pretreatment, coating and curing processes.

Burn-off stripping systems expose the products to be stripped to much higher temperatures, between 1,000-1,200F. At these temperatures, the coating ignites quickly and literally burns away from the product. Normally these systems are used as inline processes, either directly on the process conveyor or on spur lines operating at up to 6 fpm. Water quenching is used to extinguish the fire and to remove the residual ash. This means the products are completely cleaned when they exit this process. This method of stripping is more effective on hangers and racks than on products, since the higher temperatures can warp the parts.

Fluidized bed stripping systems use inert media (sand or oxides) as a heat transfer medium. Basically, these systems ignite natural gas or propane in a chamber below the tank and force this heat through the medium using air pressure. The heat is transferred to the medium and the gas/air pressure “fluidizes” the medium, just like a fluidized powder hopper. Hangers or products are lowered into the fluidized tank where the hot medium (approximately 800F) breaks down the coating, and the scrubbing action of the medium removes any ash. Parts or hangers removed from this process are essentially clean and require no additional cleaning efforts. Normally these systems are used in batch type operations, but they can be automated for inline processing of hangers.

Thermochemical cleaning methods use a combination of temperature and chemical reaction to strip the coating from the part. Most often referred to as “molten salt” cleaning, this methodology is used to strip both products and hangers in a relatively short cycle time. The operating temperature is about 800-900F. This process is used as an inline stripping method and uses a water spray to clean chemicals and residue from the parts/hangers.

Chemical stripping methods can use either hot or cold stripping chemistries in a batch-type process to remove the coating from parts/hangers. The hot strippers are usually caustic and degrade the coating from the part by causing it to swell, dissolve, etc. This softened coating is then removed by water spray or just falls off into the chemical bath. Cold chemical strippers are usually solvent-based products and can be very dangerous to work with because of health concerns. Knowing how resistant to chemicals powder coatings are makes one think how nasty these cold strippers can be.

The stripping method of choice should be selected based upon the following criteria:

1. How fast do you want to strip the coating from the part or hangers? This is a great example of “time is money,” since most of the faster stripping methods are usually the most expensive to purchase and operate. Mechanical stripping can take 30-120 min to process only a few parts but is often one of the cheapest processes to implement. Bake-off systems can take 3-6 hr to strip the coating off the parts/hangers while burn-off systems can be as quick as 4 min. Fluidized beds are relatively quick at 30-60 minutes but can’t match the speed of thermochemical strippers where racks can be stripped clean in just seconds. Finally, chemical strippers can strip parts at 30-60 min.
2. Do you have to perform some post-stripping cleaning to remove residue? The methods that provide the cleanest parts/hangers without any additional steps are most appropriate for inline stripping systems.
3. Do you need a batch or inline stripping process? Inline systems are always more expensive than batch stripping systems. However, having enough hangers to support a batch type stripping process can be more expensive than buying an inline stripper in high-production powder coating systems.
4. What effect will the stripping process have on the hangers and/or parts? If you process lightly made parts or hangers through an aggressive cleaning system, then you may be scrapping more hangers or parts than you would like.
5. What environmental and/or health considerations need to be evaluated? Cold chemical strippers are often too dangerous to use and difficult to dispose while bake-off systems are normally environmentally friendly.

Often the stripping time vs. capital costs argument determines which process you will select. But don’t forget the operational cost of the system you select. Sometimes the cheapest process to buy is the most costly to operate. And, finally, you should provide sample parts/hangers to the equipment suppliers for testing before you purchase any stripping process. This ensures that you and the supplier will have similar expectations of what the hangers/parts will look like after they are stripped free of the powder coating and how much effort it will take to get them stripped.

_________________
2016 JKU RUBICON

other mods coming soon...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 5:24 pm 
Offline
LOST Junkie

Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2005 4:50 pm
Posts: 760
Location: nj
i would say sandblast it.

_________________
02' Sport- SOLD

07' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 1500 4x4
Yeah it's got a hemi!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 5:38 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member

Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2006 9:38 pm
Posts: 12988
Location: Colorado Springs
As long as the original powdercoat is not cracked or coming off in any place just wash it with Dawn dish soap,scuff with the red ScotchBrite,and then have it painted to what ever color you want.If you take the whole thing back down to bare metal then it will need to be "E" coated and then primered/painted,costing more $$$$.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 5:49 pm 
Offline
Moderator / Lifetime Member
Moderator / Lifetime Member

Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 5:49 pm
Posts: 27226
Location: NOW Southeastern Ohio/ Tanzania
Mine when I bought it they just painted over the powdercoating and its held up fine!
Just do what tjkj said! Otherwise more work/$$$/ and more time before you can put that puppy on! :wink:

_________________
MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 6:00 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 10:26 pm
Posts: 2133
Location: Sin City USA
I called my local Powder Coater, and asked how much it would be for both of my bumpers to get done. they quoted me 240 for both and 100 for both if I want to add the clear coat. Thats doesn't seem that bad to me...

_________________
2016 JKU RUBICON

other mods coming soon...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:47 pm 
Offline
Got Groceries?
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 12, 2006 8:47 pm
Posts: 1117
Location: ORANGE BEACH, AL.
I used "dads easy paint and varnish remover" http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-5737/Detail

On a skid row gas tank skid. I didnt spray it, just poured it. It is pretty thick and bubbled the powdercoat off in about a minute. then I just wiped it off with a rag. But becareful if you use this stuff it is quite painful if it comes into contact with your skin :shock:

_________________
2003 limited 3.7L V6
Vader Edition

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3219059


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 11:33 pm 
Offline
I live here
I live here
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2005 6:59 pm
Posts: 5839
Location: Aurora, CO
0311_DoC wrote:
I called my local Powder Coater, and asked how much it would be for both of my bumpers to get done. they quoted me 240 for both and 100 for both if I want to add the clear coat. Thats doesn't seem that bad to me...


For colormatching or black powdercoating? Black is cheap. Getting other colors will cost. Did you ask for a primer coat also?

_________________
===
New KJ Gear - Desert Armor Flak

2004 Renegade Light Khaki - 4" JBA Lift - Rock Lizard Products: Komodo Dragon Rear Bumper, Prototype Winch-mount Front Bumper, Super Skink Sliders - All J's Super Tranny Skid II - 31" Firestone Destination AT's on Moab wheels - Cobra 75W CB w/ stock Antenna mod

[b]Retired, US Military


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 12:19 am 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 10:26 pm
Posts: 2133
Location: Sin City USA
Tokyojoe wrote:
0311_DoC wrote:
I called my local Powder Coater, and asked how much it would be for both of my bumpers to get done. they quoted me 240 for both and 100 for both if I want to add the clear coat. Thats doesn't seem that bad to me...


For colormatching or black powdercoating? Black is cheap. Getting other colors will cost. Did you ask for a primer coat also?


I just asked for one color. Like Gun Metal grey or a dark grey as well as black. No I didnt ask for a primer. The TR already comes with a flat black PC and when the RL is done I assume it will be bare steel.

_________________
2016 JKU RUBICON

other mods coming soon...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: If you want to DIY
PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 1:16 am 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 1:31 am
Posts: 1029
Location: Lakewood, Colorado
If the surface is solid on the material. Instead do the Cleaning and Red Scotch Brite pad get real aggressive as far as having no shiny spots. Then use XIM this is a Bonder paint that will actually glue your Top Coat to the surface. Since the advent of more waterborn coating it has fallen by the wayside but old time painters have used it many a time in problem situations like your having.

Check out: http://www.ximbonder.com/

This stuff is a real life saver that insured getting the job done with out loosing all your profit in labor doing a full Strip. :twisted:


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 1:26 am 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 7:05 pm
Posts: 209
Location: Oregon
Sandblasting. Chemical strip.Some use other media to blast with like walnut shells or cherry pits. Some use a thermal method.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 11 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group. Color scheme by ColorizeIt!
Logo by pixeldecals.com