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Steering wheel vibrates when braking
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28188		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Video Guy [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:11 am ]
Post subject:  Steering wheel vibrates when braking
What might cause the steering wheel to shake when braking? I often notice this at highway speeds, not really noticeable under 45 mph. The Liberty tracks smoothly otherwise, so I think my alignment's still good. There's no shimmying or bouncingt. The only part of the vehicle vibrating is the steering wheel.

I drive a 2003 KJ Sport with Daystar spacer lift. 58K miles with original shocks.

Thanks for thinking about this.

TJB
Author:  DarbyWalters [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:14 am ]
Post subject: 
1) Warped Front Brake Rotors...this is probably the culprit...but you should also feel it at lower speeds when applying the brake

2) Tire Tread Separation...would probably "hear" a rumbling with this problem

3} Wheel Bearing assembly loose...held on with four small bolts eash side...ABS and Non-ABS are different part #s

4) Worn suspension parts...tie rods, ball joints, ect
Author:  Renegade24 [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:31 am ]
Post subject: 
ever since i got my 2.5" daystar lift when i come to a stop the car starts to shake alot. Is this just because there is a softer suspention with teh lift?
Author:  tommudd [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 12:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
warped rotors would be first to check

Tom
Author:  jerbacher [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 1:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
a tire out of balance can do this too.
Author:  Video Guy [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 4:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks, guys. As soon as I wrote my original post, I found out about the front brake rotors on another automotive site. I'll get it checked out next week. And here I thought I was in the clear until I upgrade my shocks in the spring. But it's a minor thing. What does brake resurfacing cost (a ballpark figure)?

Darby, I do feel the wheel shake at slower speeds too. I just checked for this on my lunch break.

I want to keep our KJ trouble-free for my wife because we'll be switching vehicles once I become a stay-at-home dad next month. I'll get the mini-van and she'll get the KJ. Oh well, at least I'll be able to drive the KJ on weekends. Probably won't do much wheeling until I'm employed again -- hopefully by May/June. Gotta pay to play, and if I'm not getting paid, well . . . don't want to risk major damage while unemployed.
Author:  ATXKJ [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 4:57 pm ]
Post subject: 
It used to be cheap to turn brake rotors ($10-$20) but the odds are overwhelming that you won't have enough metal to turn them and that you need new (I think they come from the factory at minimum spec)
I think you can get new rotors at NAPA for about $50-$60 or some of the drilled/slotted versions for ~$100-$150
TireRack lists several options.
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 5:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
Tirerack has the solid brembos. I would think they are good and they are not as much as the crossdrilled stuff.
Author:  JIMMY JEEP [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 5:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yeah warped discs if it's only under braking i'd say
Author:  hyedipin [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 6:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
I paid $700 for brake job front and rear, resurfacing, new pads to the dealer, I was ROBBED big time, and the new brakes are mushy and spongy, not as responsive.. No matter what you do, don't get it done at the dealer (I think you should know it by now, I didn't and I was ripped off)

I had exact same problem, shaking when applying brakes only from 50 to 35 mph.

Quote:
BRAKES AND RESURFACE
1 V2013882 PAD KIT-REAR DISK BRAKE = 49.95
2 52128411AB ROTOR = 150.00
LABOR = 150.00 ................................
TOTAL : 349.95

BRAKES AND RESURFACE
1 VKJ08247 BRAKE PKG-FRONT = 199.95
LABOR = 150 ................................
TOTAL : 349.95
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 7:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
I die alittle every time I hear that hyedipin. :(
Author:  ATXKJ [ Fri Jan 04, 2008 10:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
hyedipin
'mushy and spongy' brakes - sounds like you have air bubbles in the line - takes initial pressure to compress them before the pressure goes to the brakes.

the whole system needs to be bleed - (I can do mine in the driveway - but I wouldn't try it on the streets of New York - it should be simple at any shop)
Author:  hyedipin [ Sat Jan 05, 2008 1:45 am ]
Post subject: 
Yeah, I've been told about bleeding. I am just waiting for the next time I need to to brakes, maybe at 50k, othewrise as long as they hold, I got used to it.
Author:  dgeist [ Sat Jan 05, 2008 12:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
ATXKJ wrote:
It used to be cheap to turn brake rotors ($10-$20) but the odds are overwhelming that you won't have enough metal to turn them and that you need new (I think they come from the factory at minimum spec)
I think you can get new rotors at NAPA for about $50-$60 or some of the drilled/slotted versions for ~$100-$150
TireRack lists several options.


Additionally, if you're going to have them turned and they're already warped, there's a chance that the metal was weakened or stressed and might warp again or worse. I've only ever been advised to turn PITTED rotors by anyone worth their salt. Most pros would say that it's not even worth it give the cost differential. Make sure you check the replacements for slight warpage, too. Lots of places store them badly (up on end on a shelf) which over time allows them to sag. It's like vinyl LPs except the other way around :)

hyedipin wrote:
Yeah, I've been told about bleeding. I am just waiting for the next time I need to to brakes, maybe at 50k, othewrise as long as they hold, I got used to it.


They'll hold but can be dangerous in an emergency stop. Why not take it back to the dealer that robbed you and make them bleed the system. You've obviously paid enough for it.
Author:  Video Guy [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks, guys.

The vibrating is pretty mild. How bad does the problem have to be to require service? Is this something that should be corrected immediately?
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
Its not hard to fix if you cant replace the rotors. Take them off, take them to a shop and tell them to re surface them.

They will probably warp again but it will get you by for awhile.

I had mine resurfaced 20k ago and they have been fine though.
Author:  DarbyWalters [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
If it is mild it might be worth the time to turn the rotors...otherwise you can "ride it out"
Author:  sleeve84028 [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
DarbyWalters wrote:
If it is mild it might be worth the time to turn the rotors...otherwise you can "ride it out"


To me there are three levels of rotor warp [i.e. steering wheel shake]

1) Low: a slight rumble and wiggle as you approach a stop sing / off ramp / traffic signal and those things
2) Mild: slighly annoying shaking and pulsating can be noticed on a regular basis. This is the time I start thinking about new rotors.. One more panic stop and you will progress to level 3
3) High: OMGosh the wheel feels like it's being jerked out of your hand and your foot hurts when you step on the pedal. This is the point where you drive right to the brake shop and lay out the money for imediate replacement


If you are in the Mild range, it will be personal choice on your part as to when you need to actually go into the shop to get them fixed. And yes, you will need to get them replaced sooner or later. Later works but it's annoying
Author:  MiniDevil [ Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
sleeve84028 wrote:
DarbyWalters wrote:
If it is mild it might be worth the time to turn the rotors...otherwise you can "ride it out"


To me there are three levels of rotor warp [i.e. steering wheel shake]

1) Low: a slight rumble and wiggle as you approach a stop sing / off ramp / traffic signal and those things
2) Mild: slighly annoying shaking and pulsating can be noticed on a regular basis. This is the time I start thinking about new rotors.. One more panic stop and you will progress to level 3
3) High: OMGosh the wheel feels like it's being jerked out of your hand and your foot hurts when you step on the pedal. This is the point where you drive right to the brake shop and lay out the money for imediate replacement


If you are in the Mild range, it will be personal choice on your part as to when you need to actually go into the shop to get them fixed. And yes, you will need to get them replaced sooner or later. Later works but it's annoying


Definately. Happened to me a couple times, and it's not something you exactly want to ignore. Fracturing and/or loss of braking in the front from a panic stop or two when it's already in need of repair could be dangerous.
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