Got my RL license plate bracket today...
what is the 3M adhesive for?

has anyone spray painted theirs yet? b/c i think i might to prevent it from rusting!

About 25 minutes later I outside and the UPS dude says... "there's a beast in here for you." (the UPS guy knows me very well, considering he makes many trips to my house!!!) we then discussed my KJ for about 5 minutes or so and he was walkied "Joe, where are you... you left for that delivery 10 minutes ago." he wasn't introuble, just late.

So my question is... is the bumper supposed to look like this... it looks rusty, but i know it got the powdercoating... so what should i do?

That almost looks like hand/finger prints to me...

_________________
Have fun out there.

2003 Cactus Green Renegade w/ NP231 & NV3550
Al's 4th Gen UCAs
Custom 3.5" Lift
Rear DTT
Spidertraxed 245/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns

ya but how do i get them off?

Psst-Thats not powdercoat.

You need to wash it with soap and water and prep the surface. If you're not gonna paint it, let whoever is deal with it.

_________________
The only place worth posting Husky mats and tow hooks mods.

YOu got the sandblasting, not powdercoating. Those are just handprints that caused some light surface rust. Wire wheel them and they should come off pretty easy. Then prep for paint. The worst part of the whole process for mine was getting rid of the dang stickers and tape residue.

_________________
99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

ahhh... what kinda prep did you use, and what kinda paint?
is it pretty durable with the paint technique? b/c i step on my bumper and kick and hit things... not hard but it happens... and want to know if the paint will stand up!

I did mine with rattle can and it came out great. You need to clean the surface real well of any dirt and oil. Sand it with 80-120 grit, clean again, then a thin coat of etching primer, primer, then a few coats of paint. Sand with 220 or finer and clean with tack between all the steps. They key to adhesion is a clean starting surface then sanding and cleaning between all your coats.

If 05 silver is the same as 02, Rustoleum Matte Nickel Metallic is a great match, but mine's a limited.

_________________
The only place worth posting Husky mats and tow hooks mods.

The 3M is for the edging of your flares....if you want to add it if you goof the edges of the flare. I skipped adding mine.

_________________
===
New KJ Gear - Desert Armor Flak

2004 Renegade Light Khaki - 4" JBA Lift - Rock Lizard Products: Komodo Dragon Rear Bumper, Prototype Winch-mount Front Bumper, Super Skink Sliders - All J's Super Tranny Skid II - 31" Firestone Destination AT's on Moab wheels - Cobra 75W CB w/ stock Antenna mod

[b]Retired, US Military

Jealous...


I need to blind someone with my backup lights then brake-check them.

_________________
-oooooo- ---Craig, L.O.S.T. #CT068103
/______\ ---http://jeep.allgris.com
O||||||||O ---'02 Sport 4x4, 5-spd,
[]--------[] ---2.5" BDS lift, 245/75/16 MT/Rs, Moab Rims, Locked and Regeared!
[]_____[] ---The list got to long, go to my web site for more!

As mentioned, it was sandblasted, not powdercoated. It left here Friday, so that light surface rust isn't anything too permanent. Just a quick wipe down with a rag and a good degreaser type solvent (even something like Throttle body cleaner would even work). For that type of rust, just kill the grease that caused it, wipe as much off as you can, then spray over it with Rustoleum. That's why I like to use and recommend the Rustoleum Hammered paint. It looks great, no need to prime, the surface is already sandblasted to give a great bonding surface for the paint, just a quick wipe down and shoot it. If you aren't in a big hurry, for best results, let the paint cure for three or four days, especially for three or four good coats of paint. No need for grinding or wirebrushing or buying fancy tools.

Here are the install instructions: http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/k ... ctions.htm

_________________
WWW.ROCKLIZARDFABRICATIONS.COM

Above is what I did, including the curing time and both my bumpers came out good.

_________________
99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

Marty i can not tell you how good these welds are... you are a machine! thanks again man!
so no sanding is needed? i have some 409 degreaser... will that work?

Thanks. There's atleast two hours of actual weld time on those things.

I don't know what's in the 409, but you might just hit the WalMart and grab a can of Throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). Shouldn't be more than a couple bucks.

when installing the license plate bracket, where do i tap in for the power for the light?

The OEM light on the bumber,you need to unhook it any ways,just cut off the connector,ones ground(I just put a eyelet connector on the ground and selftapped bolted it to the unibody) and extend the power wire to the new light,the new light is self grounding(just make sure it is grounded though).

I modified the supplied braket and incorporated the factory light into it. I rerouted and extended the harness and plug the light into the factory connection. Nutty? Yes. but it works great and looks good and discos easy.
I can probably get some more pics eventually to show more of what/how I did.



BTW, I shot it w/ some hammered paint to match the bumper.

OT, I have another idea for my other bumper as I will be mounting the plate to the recessed area under the spare once the rear carrier is in place.

_________________
99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

do i really need to get those spots off of my bumper, or can i go ahead and lay down my first coat of rustoleum?

You might want to,if you paint over rust(even light surface rust) it will continue to rust(spread) and make the paint peal,and off course rust the bumber out.

You don't have to scrub that light surface rust completely off, just get they grease/oil/wax off so the paint will stick to the bumper. The finger prints will keep paint from adhering as good as it should unless you get the oils off. Most of the rust will wipe off with the solvent, but the main thing is the grease and oil has to be killed. Rustoleum is made for bonding and covering rust, but it is the grease and oil that caused the rust that will discourage paint bonding. Did that make sense?

I have been in the paint industry for over 30 years . No disrespect to my fellow L.O.S.Tl. bretheren like Rock Lizzard of Little Red after only about a month L.O.S.T. I bow to these automotive ARTIST I have been around a while and I bow to these experts. But when it comes to paint I have been their done that!!! A little Painters secret I learned years ago PENATROL made by FLOOD . This is and old school paint additive for oil based paint (wetting Agent slowed drying time) , But the better characteristic of this product is take as the lubricant using a scotch brite pad or "00" or "000" steel wool and scrub the rusted surface with this product wait an hour or so and scrub again. Now get a primer on this surface Rustoleum is good but check out:
http://www.zerorust.com/
I personally havn't used this product but the Penetrol WORKS!! Just check with your local paint store. So many do not know of this product because oil base paint has fallen out of favor with the paint industry. But years ago many a painter used garbage Mis-tint oil base paints as the worlds best primer before putting the finish coat on. I have also used this product on old rusted bumpers with "0000" steel wool to clean it up before sale just add a little wax after cleaning and it looks like new. Not meaning to cheat but it does clean up rust beautifully, How you finish it after cleaning is your business

LEAD Follow or GET OUT of THE WAY