I am wondering if any of you have painted or used some kind of bed liner on your plastic bumpers and fenders. I am trying to decide if I want to do this, so if you have any pointers, tips or pics. Post em up.
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| plastic flare and bumper painting http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28467 |
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| Author: | 06BlueLimited [ Fri Jan 11, 2008 11:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | plastic flare and bumper painting |
I am wondering if any of you have painted or used some kind of bed liner on your plastic bumpers and fenders. I am trying to decide if I want to do this, so if you have any pointers, tips or pics. Post em up.
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| Author: | Sir Sam [ Fri Jan 11, 2008 11:47 pm ] |
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You will have problems doing this if you have the textured fender flares and end caps. If you really want them to be body colored I would suggest buying new OEM parts that are smooth and are meant to be painted on. Then have those painted to match. |
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| Author: | Weegie5 [ Fri Jan 11, 2008 11:50 pm ] |
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I called a local Line-X shop before Christmas. They said if I was to pull the trigger on it, it's best to remove the entire piece of trim and coat it all around, forming a "shell" of bedliner around it because the goop itself wouldn't adhere all that well to the face of the plastic trim pieces. TJKJ2002 lined his fender flares, the bottom of his doors, and the bit of the roof between the windshield and the (Mopar) lightbar. |
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| Author: | dloc_jeep_KJ [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:03 am ] |
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i plan to Line X mine in the near future. maybe Hurculiner but its a little chunkier if thats the right word and im not sure if u can get the UV protection in it. but ill let u know how it turns out if u want. ill try to post some pics when i do. im kinda scared to do it though im not sure if i will like the looks but it will hold up better im sure. |
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:08 am ] |
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The grey textured flares/bumber require alot of prep for anything to stick.The textured surface makes it hard to prep the surface and a butt load of adhesion promotor is needed. My flares,stock bumbers(long gone now),lower 1/3,and entire roof is bedlined.I used Mortons sprayon bedliner,UV protected,looks new still after 5 years.I also have a limited so my flares and such where already smooth body color matched. |
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| Author: | dloc_jeep_KJ [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:18 am ] |
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so what did u use to prime them with?? i figured a good sanding with some air tools would do the trick. |
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| Author: | Sir Sam [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:44 am ] |
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tjkj2002 wrote: The grey textured flares/bumber require alot of prep for anything to stick.The textured surface makes it hard to prep the surface and a butt load of adhesion promotor is needed.
Bingo. If you really just want them painted to match your best bet is to buy new "paint to match" stockers. |
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| Author: | 06BlueLimited [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:50 am ] |
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I have really been considering the herculiner. I have used it before and really liked it. I will probably get bored and give it a go one of these days. thanks for the tips and help. |
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:51 am ] |
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dloc_jeep_KJ wrote: so what did u use to prime them with?? i figured a good sanding with some air tools would do the trick. I didn't have to prime my flares,they where already painted(smooth body color painted),I just scuffed them with brown scotchbrite(80 grit).The grey textured sport flares need alot of work to be painted.
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| Author: | dloc_jeep_KJ [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 2:10 am ] |
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tjkj2002 wrote: dloc_jeep_KJ wrote: so what did u use to prime them with?? i figured a good sanding with some air tools would do the trick. I didn't have to prime my flares,they where already painted(smooth body color painted),I just scuffed them with brown scotchbrite(80 grit).The grey textured sport flares need alot of work to be painted.i was talking talking about LineX not paint. would there still be that much prep?? what i have use the Hurculiner sticks to almost anything. especially ur hands 
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| Author: | Sir Sam [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 3:21 am ] |
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dloc_jeep_KJ wrote: tjkj2002 wrote: dloc_jeep_KJ wrote: so what did u use to prime them with?? i figured a good sanding with some air tools would do the trick. I didn't have to prime my flares,they where already painted(smooth body color painted),I just scuffed them with brown scotchbrite(80 grit).The grey textured sport flares need alot of work to be painted.i was talking talking about LineX not paint. would there still be that much prep?? what i have use the Hurculiner sticks to almost anything. especially ur hands and feet. flip-flops are not good garage footwear. |
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| Author: | C co Crusader 2/127 [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 3:52 am ] |
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dloc_jeep_KJ wrote: tjkj2002 wrote: dloc_jeep_KJ wrote: so what did u use to prime them with?? i figured a good sanding with some air tools would do the trick. I didn't have to prime my flares,they where already painted(smooth body color painted),I just scuffed them with brown scotchbrite(80 grit).The grey textured sport flares need alot of work to be painted.i was talking talking about LineX not paint. would there still be that much prep?? what i have use the Hurculiner sticks to almost anything. especially ur hands id be careful sanding plastic. there are certin kinds of plastic that smear when sanded. An unfortunatlly the lib uses the junk. Its a little more pliable but thats about he only upside to it. I dont think you would really need to use a promoter. Id just get some really good primer and then go from there. Before you prime it though make sure after your done sanding(again be careful) clean it up good with some acetone or thinner to get all the waxes that were on it before off. Id go with something like the mortons or line x. Ive had a lot of experience with herculiner and the stuff is junk. It fades to a dingy grey in about a year and chips off about as fast. I also know you can get the comercial grade rino lining stuff. I just dont know where though. Ill have to check and find out where we get it from at work. I think it moght be fastenal. |
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| Author: | jerbacher [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 8:44 am ] |
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would this work for the textured plastic? 1. clean the parts really well with acetone etc. 2. use adhesion promoter 3. spray on Krylon Fusion or something else that is formulated for plastic 4. spray bedliner on top of that I dont know how the bedliner would react to the Fusion. I'm not that familiar with either products, so I dont know what their contents are. It seems like it might work though, but I would def. test it on a spare chunk of plastic that you might have lying around. Maybe the little air dam thingy under the bumper that you dont really need anyway, and you cant really see if it gets screwed up. |
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| Author: | dloc_jeep_KJ [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 9:29 pm ] |
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jerbacher wrote: would this work for the textured plastic?
1. clean the parts really well with acetone etc. 2. use adhesion promoter 3. spray on Krylon Fusion or something else that is formulated for plastic 4. spray bedliner on top of that I dont know how the bedliner would react to the Fusion. I'm not that familiar with either products, so I dont know what their contents are. It seems like it might work though, but I would def. test it on a spare chunk of plastic that you might have lying around. Maybe the little air dam thingy under the bumper that you dont really need anyway, and you cant really see if it gets screwed up. good point about the air dam i have mine in my garage since i took it off a long time ago.. ill try it first.. i just dont see why it would require so much prep work to LineX them that stuff is like tar.. maybe the acetone to clean off all the products i have used on them to keep them clean but i dont think i really would have to use a primer.. but im not a painter so i dont know that much about paint.. |
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 9:36 pm ] |
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If I remember right Line-X and Rhino lining need a primed or painted surface to bond to.I know Mortons bedliner does,Hurculiner is a waste of time.Line-X and Rhino lining needs to be applied by a dealer with there special aplicators($$$$),Mortons you can buy the spray gun(only $20) but need a compressor that puts out 14CFM at 90psi to apply it. And for anytype of primer to stick to the textured surface it needs to be sanded,have fun with that. |
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| Author: | Rush345 [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 11:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | X-I-M |
Check out a product called X-I-M it's a bonding primer, comes in white and clear it assists bonding to stubborn surfaces. This product on more then one occassion has saved a painters bacon and sold the paint job on just as difficult a surface galvanised metal for instance. This product was originally designed for automotive paint work. If you want to Line-x be sure to be sitting down when they quote you the price  . If not prepared you will wet yourself. I have the highest reguard for both Line-X and Rhino Liner. These product do take specialized equipment for application. (Beleive it or not it's a kicked up texture machine to handle the product) But Line-X was used in the Pentagon for interior bomb protection and a new show on Discovery a few weeks ago took a 2 pickup trucks one not liner and the second with a bed liner applied and blew it up from underneith the non-lined was shredded the lined allowed the bed to remain intact while the blast force moved forword and totally destroyed all but the bed. They proceded to try to blow up a set of brick walls once again with Rhino Liner in front only in back only and both side coated the end result was incredible as to it's integrity. These are great products but as with any coating application the surface prep is the foundation poor foundation poor finish and outcome  
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| Author: | dloc_jeep_KJ [ Sat Jan 12, 2008 11:43 pm ] |
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thanks guys ill keep this in mind.. heck i might end up not doing it now.. i guess ill try it on my air dam and see how that goes.. i would hate to mess them up and have to relace them with new stock parts that would really suck. i think i could spend my money on better things like a locker |
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| Author: | 0311_DoC [ Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:58 am ] |
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Weegie5 wrote: I called a local Line-X shop before Christmas. They said if I was to pull the trigger on it, it's best to remove the entire piece of trim and coat it all around, forming a "shell" of bedliner around it because the goop itself wouldn't adhere all that well to the face of the plastic trim pieces.
Can you expand on this? I would think if you left the flares on it would act as another attachment point kinda and not just rely on the rivets or pins holding the flares to the fenders. and be more sturdy. |
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| Author: | jeepkj02 [ Sun Jan 13, 2008 11:24 am ] |
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FWIW, I was planning on using Krylon Fusion to paint my flares and bumpers this summer. The product claims you don't need a primer or pre-sanding. Make sure the surface is clean and spray. Also, easy touch-up. |
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:01 pm ] |
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jeepkj02 wrote: FWIW, I was planning on using Krylon Fusion to paint my flares and bumpers this summer. The product claims you don't need a primer or pre-sanding. Make sure the surface is clean and spray. Also, easy touch-up. Used that Fusion paint on my KC HID light covers,looks nice but bug splatters chip the paint,so bad I repainted them then added a gaint sticker on them to lesson the chipping.
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