Hitch Info

renegadekj · **Posted:** Sat Mar 01, 2008 10:09 pm

Okay guys, I'm in the process of searching for a hitch for the KJ. Which one is more "hidden" then the other? I know that you can get a reese, drawtight or hidden hitch are their any others? Does the wiring harness come with the hitches? Also do they come with the cannon plug connectors? I will be in need of a class lV / GTW 5000lbs to tow a dual axle 6'x12' cargo trailer. Which hitch would you recommend?
What is involved with the wiring? I've heard you have to take the rear tail light off to access the connections. Whcih light is it the drivers side or passenger? Thanks for the help? Pics of the different kinds would be good if you have any.

Josh

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 01, 2008 11:16 pm

renegadekj wrote:

Okay guys, I'm in the process of searching for a hitch for the KJ. Which one is more "hidden" then the other? I know that you can get a reese, drawtight or hidden hitch are their any others? Does the wiring harness come with the hitches? Also do they come with the cannon plug connectors? I will be in need of a class lV / GTW 5000lbs to tow a dual axle 6'x12' cargo trailer. Which hitch would you recommend?
What is involved with the wiring? I've heard you have to take the rear tail light off to access the connections. Whcih light is it the drivers side or passenger? Thanks for the help? Pics of the different kinds would be good if you have any.

Josh

I had a Reese that I used for 1.5yrs and it worked great I got it at walmart for $110 then I bought a 4-flat wire harness from summit racing for $50 or so I cant remember, and I just now bought a 7 pin adapter that plugs into the 4-flat and then all I have are 3 other wires to do and Ill have a 7 pin and I bought it from orschlens for $30

oh and to install the 4-flat harness from summit racing you need a t25 to remove the 2 screws from each side of the taillights its real easy takes at most 30min the first time and you'll need to remove both taillights to install the 4-flat

Jeep_R_Roo14 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 02, 2008 9:30 pm

I installed a Curtis hitch on mine. It is hidden well. Let me know if you need any pictures.

scoobysnax · **Posted:** Sun Mar 02, 2008 10:36 pm

I just put on a Draw-Tite. It extends about 2" from the very bottom of the bumper and it's almost even with the top (the bumper angles inwards.

Rush345 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2008 12:17 am

For what it's worth if you haven't the tools or the work space to install a tow hitch I have had more then one shop tell me the best bang for your buch is U-Haul I have the tools but not the work space.

03CDKJ · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2008 12:23 am

renegadekj wrote:

Okay guys, I'm in the process of searching for a hitch for the KJ. Which one is more "hidden" then the other? I know that you can get a reese, drawtight or hidden hitch are their any others? Does the wiring harness come with the hitches? Also do they come with the cannon plug connectors? I will be in need of a class lV / GTW 5000lbs to tow a dual axle 6'x12' cargo trailer. Which hitch would you recommend?
What is involved with the wiring? I've heard you have to take the rear tail light off to access the connections. Whcih light is it the drivers side or passenger? Thanks for the help? Pics of the different kinds would be good if you have any.

Josh

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... highlight=

Blue KJ in PA · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:45 am

If you use the Mopar hitch wiring assembly (4 or the 7 pin), you just pop some plastic off in the cargo area (not pull the whole side off like the instructions state that is not required) and plug it in.

renegadekj · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:32 pm

What's a better assembly to get? The 4 or 7 pin? I'm assuming it depends on the trailer connection, right? I'm not exactly clear on the difference and which one is good for which situation. Thanks for the links an infor so far guys! I got a price on a drawtite here in alberta today and they want $260.00 for the class lV and another $49 for the wiring? Good? bad?

Josh

Blue KJ in PA · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:10 pm

renegadekj wrote:

What's a better assembly to get? The 4 or 7 pin? I'm assuming it depends on the trailer connection, right? I'm not exactly clear on the difference and which one is good for which situation. Thanks for the links an infor so far guys! I got a price on a drawtite here in alberta today and they want $260.00 for the class lV and another $49 for the wiring? Good? bad?

Josh

4pin is for your basic trailer, 7 pin allows for electronic brake control something usually for larger trailer than most have behind a Jeep (but of course everyone has to choose based on their needs). Your pricing on the Drawtite and the wiring sounds fairly decent. I went with the MOPAR 4 pin wiring harness because it was so simple, came with the properly sized gasket to fit the hole in the rear cargo area and it took me 15min or less to install. I think it was $85 from the dealer or Jparts.com (I forgot which one I got it from 3 yrs ago).

Here's my Drawtite Rear Hitch

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I use it for this

or this

KeswickDave · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:23 pm

renegadekj wrote:

What's a better assembly to get? The 4 or 7 pin? I'm assuming it depends on the trailer connection, right? I'm not exactly clear on the difference and which one is good for which situation. Thanks for the links an infor so far guys! I got a price on a drawtite here in alberta today and they want $260.00 for the class lV and another $49 for the wiring? Good? bad?

Josh

I'm not sure of the price difference but going with the 7-pin allows for a larger trailer with brakes etc (a a dual axle 6'x12' cargo trailer should probably have brakes?), and you can easily get a plug-in adapter to use a 4-pin. Best of both worlds!

Dave

RAYMAN975 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:03 pm

thats an awesome little trailer blue kj in pa, i wanna get somethin like that, would it handle the weight of a 4wheeler?i also like those silver THULE ones

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:53 pm

renegadekj wrote:

What's a better assembly to get? The 4 or 7 pin? I'm assuming it depends on the trailer connection, right? I'm not exactly clear on the difference and which one is good for which situation. Thanks for the links an infor so far guys! I got a price on a drawtite here in alberta today and they want $260.00 for the class lV and another $49 for the wiring? Good? bad?

Josh

$260 sounds like a lot to me, and the wiring sounds okay, if it were me Id get the 7-pin just b/c you can always get an adapter cheap, I paid $7 for a 7-pin to 6-pin adapter and it also has a 4-flat already so I can tow just about anything

renegadekj · **Posted:** Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:45 am

Thanks for all the input on this topic! I'll let you know what i go with.

Josh

Blue KJ in PA · **Posted:** Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:31 am

It is rated for 2200lbs, I got mine at Home Depot a few years back. Specs are listed here: http://www.strongboxtrailers.com/page/Model_8000HD_Utility_Trailer_a

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 04, 2008 8:49 am

The other item that hasn't been mentioned yet in regards to towing would be a quality brake controller. I am still actually a little shocked that Jeep rates the Liberty for 5,000 pounds of towing, includes the 7 pin trailer harness for trailers with brakes and yet there is not an option for a brake contoller. [I've never needed one - but I am sure a few people here have]

Depending on what state or province you are in - there will be different weight limits for a trailer that require you to have trailer brakes... When we tow, we need to be prepared.

scoobysnax · **Posted:** Tue Mar 04, 2008 10:48 am

$260 is WAY too much! Maybe you are also paying for the shipping? I mentioned earlier that I just a Draw-Tite class IV. Here’s my order confirmation with prices. On their site you don’t pay for shipping if the order is over $150 or maybe it was $200, not sure. I had it in 4 business days. All of this was done over the phone based on the prices from the hitchfinder web site. They have different listings on different sites so I asked them what price they show it listed for and ended up saving $20 on my hitch b/c it was listed for a less in their system compared to the website I was looking at.

Max-Frame receiver: $137.95
8” Receiver Extension: $21.54
J-Pin Anti-Rattle Pin & Barrel Lockset for 2” receiver $19.55 (got 2 – one for the hitch and one for the extension)
Class III and IV pin and clip $4.75
Total: $203.34

I had to re-tap (12mm x 1.75 tap) the frame rail screw holes which took the most time. Cleaning out the screw holes took about an hour. Once that was done installing the hitch took less than 30min with 2 people. I haven’t done any wiring yet.

The Jeep is rated for 5,000lbs with the tow package however from the factory I think you can only get a class III hitch. Class III hitch’s are usually rated for 3,500 lbs standard and can only handle 5,000 lbs with trailer sway bars. I think Jeep does this to limit the amount of weight people can pull and force them to use trailer sway bars for safety reasons, not the strength of the engine, frame and brakes.

The hitch I got is a class IV hitch which is rated for 5,000 lbs standard and 7,500 lbs with trailer sway bars. I never plan on hauling that much (probably not even more than 3,500 for more than 2 miles.) I figured I’d go with the extra strength since I will also use the hitch as a recover point. With the 8” receiver extension it drops the trailer weight capacity to 3,500lbs with or without sway bars.

Anyway, I just wanted to point this out since I saw that you are planning to tow 5,000 hopefully you will also get the trailer sway bars – regardless of class III or class IV hitch.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 04, 2008 11:43 am

Quote:

The Jeep is rated for 5,000lbs with the tow package however from the factory I think you can only get a class III hitch. Class III hitch’s are usually rated for 3,500 lbs standard and can only handle 5,000 lbs with trailer sway bars. I think Jeep does this to limit the amount of weight people can pull and force them to use trailer sway bars for safety reasons, not the strength of the engine, frame and brakes.

The hitch I got is a class IV hitch which is rated for 5,000 lbs standard and 7,500 lbs with trailer sway bars. I never plan on hauling that much (probably not even more than 3,500 for more than 2 miles.) I figured I’d go with the extra strength since I will also use the hitch as a recover point. With the 8” receiver extension it drops the trailer weight capacity to 3,500lbs with or without sway bars.

Anyway, I just wanted to point this out since I saw that you are planning to tow 5,000 hopefully you will also get the trailer sway bars – regardless of class III or class IV hitch.

When I still had my OEM hitch is was rated class IV,and I have towed a max of 5200lbs for 30 miles or so with no trailer sway bars(no rear swaybar on the KJ either) and did just fine.

LostEddie · **Posted:** Tue Mar 04, 2008 11:54 am

Check this site out -- may be free shipping if you buy over $150.

Class III Max Frame Receiver Hitch

http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2003_Jeep_Liberty.htm

Fits Jeep Liberty

2" Hitch Opening
5,000 Towing
7,500 Weight Dist

Use 118382 or 32475 for wiring.
Use this hitch with optional drawbar 2923.

Part Number: 75128 Ships Fast
List: $238.30
Today: $149.95

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:08 pm

Towing at highway speeds at the limit of rated capability would make me really nervous. Towing large loads for short distances at slow speeds wouldn't be too big of a deal I suppose. Just make sure you are not breaking any laws by not using the proper equipment when you tow heavy loads.

Blue KJ in PA · **Posted:** Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:47 pm

I was figuring it was a higher price as US dollars are so low right now and he is in Canada. I don't remember what I paid back in 2005, but I did get mine from a local Draw-tite dealer for the rear hitch, the front hitch I got off etrailer.com and for both the price was nearly the same.

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