LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Steering rack replacement?

Your in luck,I just replaced a steering rack today with the help of Daspes(here in MOAB,in a campground) on his KJ.He blew the seals out on Kanes Creek and we got a remaned rack overnighted at CarQuest($340ish) and replaced it today.I had a idea for easy removal and it worked like a charm.You can remove/install a rack in a KJ(gasser and non HD cooling only) in less then 4 hours and without removing the front diff.Sorry no pics,to busy replacing the rack.

tjkj2002 wrote:

That does sound interesting. Last time the dealer in California replaced the bushing it took a couple of days to do it and I'm pretty sure they had to remove the diff too (by the book). What's this method of yours?

I'm pretty sure they (they current dealer) just want to make the margin on the part (they quote $1280 for the rack itself which is a little ... mmm). There are other reasons that make me unhappy about this dealership besides so I'm a little suspect of their reasoning.

tjkj2002 wrote:

5)Unbolt pass side front diff mount,you will not be able to remove the farthest forward bolt without removing the LCA,and let hang
6)Unbolt the middle(in front of the diff cover) diff mount,again one bolt will not be removeable with the LCA on,and let hang

tjkj2002 wrote:

So I was just re-reading this more carefully, because I'm getting ready to replace my r&p. And you say you have to remove the LCA, this means I will have to get my Jeep re-aligned? Right, because the alignment cam bolt is on the LCA. Does both LCA's have to be removed?

How do you know if you need to replace the whole rack instead of just the outer steering components? I get a nice clunk on my driver's side front, and two alignment shops have told me something in my steering other than my outer tie rods ("since that's all they can see") has play in it. I know my bushings look bad, but I haven't actually inspected my inner tie rods at all if I even can. Will I be able to inspect the rack once I've removed it? I know it's sealed, so how do you know if something is jacked up inside?

Author:	dirtykj [ Tue Apr 01, 2008 3:40 pm ]
Post subject:	Steering rack replacement?
Under what condition will I have to replace the entire steering rack? My dealership is telling me that it's loose (including the tie rod ends) and needs to be replaced. It's out of warranty now of course. I thought it'd just be the bushings that would need to be replaced and that tie rods can be replaced separately anyhow. Are they right? It'll cost $$$$ to have them replace the entire rack ... (Yeah, I realize even replacing the bushings alone will be a lot of work)

Author:	sleeve84028 [ Tue Apr 01, 2008 3:56 pm ]
Post subject:
Didn't someone pull the rack out of his KJ once? I remember the comment "that was horrible" or something along those lines. As for the rack itself: The dealership is probabaly trying to get you to pay for needless work. Go to another shop and ask them to inspect the rack to be certain. Bushings sure, but rack no way. These days a steering rack should last the lifetime of the vehicle.

Author:	Jeep4me99 [ Tue Apr 01, 2008 7:06 pm ]
Post subject:
yup, there have been a couple discussions on it lately. supposibly an all day job, and not an easy one. TJKJ did it, and someone else too i think

Author:	tjkj2002 [ Tue Apr 01, 2008 7:16 pm ]
Post subject:
Your in luck,I just replaced a steering rack today with the help of Daspes(here in MOAB,in a campground) on his KJ.He blew the seals out on Kanes Creek and we got a remaned rack overnighted at CarQuest($340ish) and replaced it today.I had a idea for easy removal and it worked like a charm.You can remove/install a rack in a KJ(gasser and non HD cooling only) in less then 4 hours and without removing the front diff.Sorry no pics,to busy replacing the rack.

Author:	Troysterr [ Tue Apr 01, 2008 7:18 pm ]
Post subject:
I understand it's a 12-hour job. Maybe they're suggesting the replacement because the part itself costs far less than the labor, so you may as well swap it out while they're in there? Mike and Troy just bought a replacement rack for about $300 here in Moab yesterday, I think. That's probably a third of what the labor costs to replace it (unless, of course, you're in Moab with Troy. ) Edit: Well, scratch that...looks like Troy beat me by 2 minutes with a much more useful response.

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Author:	dirtykj [ Tue Apr 01, 2008 11:08 pm ]
Post subject:
tjkj2002 wrote: Your in luck,I just replaced a steering rack today with the help of Daspes(here in MOAB,in a campground) on his KJ.He blew the seals out on Kanes Creek and we got a remaned rack overnighted at CarQuest($340ish) and replaced it today.I had a idea for easy removal and it worked like a charm.You can remove/install a rack in a KJ(gasser and non HD cooling only) in less then 4 hours and without removing the front diff.Sorry no pics,to busy replacing the rack. That does sound interesting. Last time the dealer in California replaced the bushing it took a couple of days to do it and I'm pretty sure they had to remove the diff too (by the book). What's this method of yours? I'm pretty sure they (they current dealer) just want to make the margin on the part (they quote $1280 for the rack itself which is a little ... mmm). There are other reasons that make me unhappy about this dealership besides so I'm a little suspect of their reasoning.

Author:	daspes [ Tue Apr 01, 2008 11:32 pm ]
Post subject:
dirtykj wrote: tjkj2002 wrote: Your in luck,I just replaced a steering rack today with the help of Daspes(here in MOAB,in a campground) on his KJ.He blew the seals out on Kanes Creek and we got a remaned rack overnighted at CarQuest($340ish) and replaced it today.I had a idea for easy removal and it worked like a charm.You can remove/install a rack in a KJ(gasser and non HD cooling only) in less then 4 hours and without removing the front diff.Sorry no pics,to busy replacing the rack. That does sound interesting. Last time the dealer in California replaced the bushing it took a couple of days to do it and I'm pretty sure they had to remove the diff too (by the book). What's this method of yours? I'm pretty sure they (they current dealer) just want to make the margin on the part (they quote $1280 for the rack itself which is a little ... mmm). There are other reasons that make me unhappy about this dealership besides so I'm a little suspect of their reasoning. First off a big thanks to Troy (TJKJ)! He was being very modest about my help, he did nearly all of it, I just was the spar hand involved. The method that took us about 4 hours (smoke breaks included) was to unbolt the old rack, and wiggle it up between the pulleys and radiator. New one went in the same way. When TJKJ gets back on I'm sure he can tell you what exactly he pulled and disconnected ti make the room, but I was impressed at how quick he worked.

Author:	Signcutter21 [ Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:03 pm ]
Post subject:
darn Troy, what a guy. Just yet another reason that the LOST gang is so great. I'll be packing and taking off for Moab right now, Can I help you change my bushing? LOL Daspes, glad you got it fixed for relatively cheap. Just talked to dealer. 250 in labor alone for swapping out rack bushing. later, mike

Author:	Richrail [ Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:23 pm ]
Post subject:	Rack
Last summer I had to replace the Rack and Pinion, had a serious clunk when turning, lucky for me it was still under warranty.

Author:	tjkj2002 [ Wed Apr 02, 2008 3:01 pm ]
Post subject:
dirtykj wrote: tjkj2002 wrote: Your in luck,I just replaced a steering rack today with the help of Daspes(here in MOAB,in a campground) on his KJ.He blew the seals out on Kanes Creek and we got a remaned rack overnighted at CarQuest($340ish) and replaced it today.I had a idea for easy removal and it worked like a charm.You can remove/install a rack in a KJ(gasser and non HD cooling only) in less then 4 hours and without removing the front diff.Sorry no pics,to busy replacing the rack. That does sound interesting. Last time the dealer in California replaced the bushing it took a couple of days to do it and I'm pretty sure they had to remove the diff too (by the book). What's this method of yours? I'm pretty sure they (they current dealer) just want to make the margin on the part (they quote $1280 for the rack itself which is a little ... mmm). There are other reasons that make me unhappy about this dealership besides so I'm a little suspect of their reasoning. This what I did...... 1)Jack vehicle up,place the front on jack stands 2)Remove front wheels 3)Remove outer tie rod ends from knuckles and inner tie rod ends 4)Remove front skid(if you have one) 5)Unbolt pass side front diff mount,you will not be able to remove the farthest forward bolt without removing the LCA,and let hang 6)Unbolt the middle(in front of the diff cover) diff mount,again one bolt will not be removeable with the LCA on,and let hang 7)Remove oil filter Remove serp belt 9)remove pressure/return lines on the rack 10)remove lower pressure line from bottom of PS pump 11)Discontect steering shaft(lock the steering wheel first,or you will damage the clockspring,use ratchet straps or bungi cords) 12)remove 2 bolts holding rack to cradle 13)move rack all the way to drivers side to lower pass end 14)move rack all the way to the pass side and start feeding up torwards upper raditor hose 15)with another persons aid,slowly worm the rack up on the left side(pass)of the upper raditor hose until out,yep it comes up out of the engine bay 16)install is oppisite of removal Now if you have a '02 KJ the pass side diff mount may not drop out of the way,this should be okay,just a little more work.With HD cooling if you remove the mechanical fan,electric fan,and shroud this should work for you also.Removing the electric fan/shroud may make this way alot easier.

Author:	desertrat [ Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:53 pm ]
Post subject:
Just had my steering rack replaced by the dealer. About $1,000, with half of that for parts. Took them all day+ to finish. Could definitely feel the difference with the new one. Had about 120,000 miles on vehicle when replaced it.

Author:	jeepkj02 [ Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:35 am ]
Post subject:
tjkj2002 wrote: 5)Unbolt pass side front diff mount,you will not be able to remove the farthest forward bolt without removing the LCA,and let hang 6)Unbolt the middle(in front of the diff cover) diff mount,again one bolt will not be removeable with the LCA on,and let hang So I was just re-reading this more carefully, because I'm getting ready to replace my r&p. And you say you have to remove the LCA, this means I will have to get my Jeep re-aligned? Right, because the alignment cam bolt is on the LCA. Does both LCA's have to be removed?

Author:	tjkj2002 [ Sun Apr 06, 2008 11:40 am ]
Post subject:
jeepkj02 wrote: tjkj2002 wrote: 5)Unbolt pass side front diff mount,you will not be able to remove the farthest forward bolt without removing the LCA,and let hang 6)Unbolt the middle(in front of the diff cover) diff mount,again one bolt will not be removeable with the LCA on,and let hang So I was just re-reading this more carefully, because I'm getting ready to replace my r&p. And you say you have to remove the LCA, this means I will have to get my Jeep re-aligned? Right, because the alignment cam bolt is on the LCA. Does both LCA's have to be removed? No you don't need to remove the LCA's,I was just stating that some of the diff mount bolts will not be able to be removed because the LCA's are in the way,just loosen them so you can swing down the diff mounts to gain room.You will need a alignment anyway since the new(or remaned)rack will come with new inner tie rods but not the outer's,so you will have to use your old outers unless you buy new ones,but then you still will need a alignment to reset the toe. No with you having a '02 the passenger side diff mount is different and will not be able to swing it down without removing the passenger side CV shaft.Though from looking at it there should be enough room to wiggle the rack out and back in.

Author:	RespectMyLibertay [ Mon Apr 07, 2008 2:01 am ]
Post subject:
How do you know if you need to replace the whole rack instead of just the outer steering components? I get a nice clunk on my driver's side front, and two alignment shops have told me something in my steering other than my outer tie rods ("since that's all they can see") has play in it. I know my bushings look bad, but I haven't actually inspected my inner tie rods at all if I even can. Will I be able to inspect the rack once I've removed it? I know it's sealed, so how do you know if something is jacked up inside?

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Author:	jeepkj02 [ Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:31 am ]
Post subject:
RespectMyLibertay wrote: How do you know if you need to replace the whole rack instead of just the outer steering components? I get a nice clunk on my driver's side front, and two alignment shops have told me something in my steering other than my outer tie rods ("since that's all they can see") has play in it. I know my bushings look bad, but I haven't actually inspected my inner tie rods at all if I even can. Will I be able to inspect the rack once I've removed it? I know it's sealed, so how do you know if something is jacked up inside? I know mine is shot, because the inner bushing seal is leaking and plus my tie rods are toast. Check for leaks where you inner tie rod meet the rack. This thread was helpful to me. http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35381