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 Post subject: front rotor replacement
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 8:51 pm 
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anyone replaced their front rotors ?
anything difficult i may need to watch out for. ?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 8:53 pm 
it's so easy, it's not even funny. But you should always replace your pads too, and you need a fairly large (24") C-clamp to compress the caliper first. there are two 18mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on, and 13mm bolts holding the caliper to the caliper bracket. Depending on how many miles your rotors have been on and your climate, they should just fall off. if they don't, beat the CRAP out of them with a hammer.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:05 pm 
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Another good thing to add to your signature is "eating the animals that poison a vegans world."




But, back to the subject, I'm too lazy to see if there is a write up with pics. Is there?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:29 pm 
No, but when I finally get around to installing my new brakes (I have them, but my current brakes are still in OK shape, aside from being sucky...I've just been lazy myself) I could take a picture or two.

once you get the wheel off and look, it's pretty self explanatory, only four bolts involved in the whole thing. I suspend my caliper from the spring with a coat hanger when I do my brakes, too. This is also a good time to check your upper and lower balljoints, tie rod ends, and CV axles btw.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2007 9:57 pm 
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csukoh78 wrote:
But, back to the subject, I'm too lazy to see if there is a write up with pics. Is there?

Yes, there is - brake pad and rotor replacement

EDIT: OK, my bad. It appears the images on that are not working. Dan (Roachman3700) had done a pretty good write-up which is still there, just no pictures. Guess I could've read the whole thing before I plopped it in here...

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:03 am 
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yep, i ve replaced the calipers. what i wasnt sure about was how the rotors were assembled on the wheel studs. from that write up it looks like just those metal clamps hold it on, so im good.

thanks guys for the input. maybe ill snap some pics when i replace my front rotors
this weekend.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:46 am 
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ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
there are two 18mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on.


21mm

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 7:39 pm 
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four bolts on each side, and 1.5 hrs.

took some pics of it, if anyone needs some direction.

very easy, no problems at all.

$90 total for two rotors and a set of pads.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 9:39 pm 
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jasonk wrote:
yep, i ve replaced the calipers. what i wasnt sure about was how the rotors were assembled on the wheel studs. from that write up it looks like just those metal clamps hold it on, so im good.

thanks guys for the input. maybe ill snap some pics when i replace my front rotors
this weekend.


Yeah just take the caliper and brackets off, pop of those clips. The hit the rotor with a BFH and they should pop loose. If not hit it harder, just make sure have the jeep supported well. Dont knock it off the jack stands. :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:41 pm 
meh_kick wrote:
ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:
there are two 18mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on.


21mm


Thanks for the correction...i knew it was fairly decent sized. 18mm stuck in my head for some reason.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 8:22 am 
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can we get the photos back on that thread i am just about to replace my front and rear pads and rotors

and picks would be good

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 9:25 pm 
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Do u hafta machine the rotors to seat the pads or something? why do the stealerships and shops charge so much for brake and rotor jobs?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 9:39 pm 
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Quote:
why do the stealerships and shops charge so much for brake and rotor jobs?
Well quality parts aren't cheap,plus the extra $$$ is coming from the fact no one wants to do brakes since if something goes wrong the last person that worked on them is liable,kinda a "you pay extra for me to take on that liability",since the brakes are such a important part of your vehicle.Plus if you want cheap,your brakes is not a place to do it on,come on they are kinda important right?If you want the cheapest brakes on the market I can only imagine what else you skimp on,your brakes should not be one.I spent over $400 the last time I did my brakes,that was just for parts,I did the work myself since then I know that it is done right the first time and not after I plow someone over with my KJ from a brake failure or cheap parts failing.The front is only 2 bolts to replace the pads,2 more bolts to replace the rotors,not hard.The rear is just as easy unless you have rear drums,but the drums are not that hard either.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 10:08 pm 
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I have a crappy GM crossover with well documented premature warpage on the rotors (too big of a vehicle for the OEM brakes) but my issue is if I take it to the stealership, they are gonna put the same crappy rotors and pads on so I will have the same wear/warpage soon too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 11:02 pm 
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Something nobody mentioned , that I didn't see is remember saftey. Jack Stands, wheel chocks. It would be nice if the thread showed pictures. Because I have the same project in the near future. I have through a lot of research would say don't buy cheep, when your looking at pads look at Satisfied Brakes they are made in Canada but Shows on SPEED Channel, and Spike TV's POWER BLOCK TV they show these brakes. Most parts stores sell these as their higher grade brake pads. Brakes are no place to skimp on the ld family recipe :wink: :wink: :wink:

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