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PWR steering rack replacement
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33376		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  hoku5 [ Mon Jun 16, 2008 6:55 pm ]
Post subject:  PWR steering rack replacement
I finally changed my steering rack this past saturday. I did some research and read how couple of guys did it in Moab and think it was tjk2002.
I tried to do it the way they did but you really need two guys to guide it up past the radiator so I did it differently by removing it thru the passenger wheel well and it work. It took about 6 hrs since I changed my Radiator fluid and added another pwr steering cooler in series with the factory cooler. Here is how I did it with some pointers from tjk2002.
This is on my 2002 LIB. and I think can be done on other models.

1. Lock steering wheel. I use 2 1X2 24 inches long and screw it togather
on one end so it looks like an A attach it to the steering
with legs firmly on the floor.
2. Disconnect Batt.
3. Drain radiator using the drain valve at the bottom the
radiator on the driver side. While radiator is draining.
4. Remove electric fan and shroud. I cut a piece of card board and
cover the front of the radiator for protection don't want to punch a
hole in the radiator.
5. Remove connector to the pressure sw on one of the lines to the pwr
steering pump but to not remove any lines to the pump. Remove 3
bolts that hold the pwr steering pump to the eng. the pump pulley
has holes so you can access the bolts. This is a good time to drain
the old fluid from the pump by just turning it upside down an let it
drain into a pan on the garage floor. I use ATF+4 when I reserviced
it per TSB 19-005-03.
Lay pwr steering pump over the upper radiator hose now you have
all the room to work on the lines to the steering rack.
6. Remove serpentine belt and oil fitler.
7. Remove the 2 flex lines to the steering rack and the brackets along
the cross member and let it hang down below eng and cover the ends
with a rag.
8. Remove the 2 hard lines 1/4" lines that is on the steering rack this is
so it won't hang up when removing the rack thru the wheel well
opening.
9. Disconnect steering shaft
10. Remove lower radiator hose I replaced it with a new one later.
11. Jack vehicle and and place on jack stands remove wheels.
12. Remove front skid plate.
13. Before removing outer tie rods I counted amount of threads showing
pass the Jam nut. I also marked the middle of the knuckle where
the ball joint goes thru and measure from the mark to the jam nut
for a second measurement.
Remove both left and right outer tie rods.
14. Loosen lower sway bar link bolt then remove upper link bolt move
sway bar down.
14. Remove driver side rubber boot on the steering rack. Grab the inner
tie rod and slowly push it all the way toward the passenger side.
There will be fluid coming out the open fittings on the rack I use a
piece of cardboard and newspapers to soak up the fluid which
amonts to about 1/2quart at the most.
15. Remove 2 bolts holding steering rack
16. Has you start removing rack need to rotate it with the steering shaft
pointing forward guide it thru the opening in the pass wheel well at the
same time holding the rack in an angle toward the front to clear the
shaft.
17. Installation is reverse to removal.
Use the measurements you took when installing the tie rods ends.
Note: Remove the 2 hard lines on the new rack and when you install
it back on start both ends finger tight making sure it is not
cross threaded before using a wrench 13mm. Do not over
tighten it.
Carefully remove the rubber boot on the driver side. I use a
small screw driver on the metal band to spread it and use a
needle nose pliers to crimp it on again or you can use tie wraps
if needed.
18. Fill radiator and let it slowly drain into the eng. There is a bleed plug
on the casting on the upper radiator hose on the engine side but I
could't take mine off and didn't want to break the casting, removing
the plug will probalby make it faster to fill up the radiator.
Service power steering fluid I used ATF+4.
With vehicle still on jack stands and wheel off I started the eng for
3 seconds and check all the fluids. The second time I did it I move the
steering wheel slowly left and right half travel and checked all the
fluids again and for leaks. The third time I move the steering wheel
full left and right slowly couple of times. Make sure that there is
power steering fluid in the reservior or you might damage the pump
also check your radiator fluid.

I did not remove any diff mount to do this job.
I bought the pwr steering cooler from Summit racing PN DIR-13200. It measures about 2" wide and about 8" long. I cut one line on the original
cooler the inner one looking at it from the front. I made a cut on both side of the 90 degree bend then attach one line from the new cooler to the
original cooler and the from the new cooler to the other cut line. I use 2
clamps on each ends to secure it. Make sure you use pwr steering line
to withstand the pressure I got it from Kragen pn 71350. I figure extra
cooling will help prolong the life of the pwr steering components. I mounted the cooler on the center frame infront of the radiator using extra long ty-wraps. Cooler cost about $30.00.
Well I hope this will help someone down the road.
Whew!! That was long sorry no pictures.
Author:  RespectMyLibertay [ Mon Jun 16, 2008 8:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm about to replace a lot of my steering components here pretty soon. Thanks for the thorough write-up!
Author:  cmohr [ Mon Jun 16, 2008 11:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
Gotta ask...

Did you have to change the rack because you had a clunk in the front end everytime you hit a bump????
Author:  hoku5 [ Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:09 am ]
Post subject: 
My steering rack was just worn out when I would climb up a rock one tire would face one way and the other would not follow. The last outing the
spotter said it looked funny like crossed eyed and also had a slight shimmy. All the wheeling with those heavy MTRs the last 4 years really took a toll on the steering system I'm also lifted so more stress on the rack plus my bushing were worn out too. Now it feels solid and no shimmy. No clunking sound at all before I changed it.
Author:  cmohr [ Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:14 am ]
Post subject: 
Bugger..

I have a clunk in the front end, I did replace some suspension bushes, and the only thing left to change is the rack...Hmm.... Have to sit down and think some more about it...
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