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 Post subject: Vibs at 65mph
PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:36 pm 
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I've been meaning to check my lower ball joints, but my last attempt resulted in my stock bottle jack failing!! So this time I have my ARB bumper and a hi-lift jack.

I have a severe vibration at highway speeds (60+ mph) while cruising and even worse when I have to pass a car, going from 65 to 70/75mph.

Anyway, my upper and lower ball joints look good, but when I turn the tire side to side (to check the tie rods), the inner tie rod moves in and out? Is that normal?

I was thinking it my wheels/tires are out of balance. So I bought some DynaBeads to try out on my front end.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:40 pm 
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checked for mud and what not in places it doesn't belong?

let us know how those dynabeads go, i've heard that regular plastic bb's like with those airsoft guns use works just as well, however creates an unballanced tire at slower speeds until the beads chill out

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:33 pm 
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I just realized that I didn't jack up the front under the lower control arm (unload the suspension), so that would explain the inner tie rod end moving.

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245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:59 pm 
jeepkj02 wrote:
I just realized that I didn't jack up the front under the lower control arm (unload the suspension), so that would explain the inner tie rod end moving.


Tie rod ends and upper balljoints will move no matter what


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:29 pm 
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Okay, so my Dynabeads came in today and added 4 oz per tire (fronts only) and still have a vibration. When I bought my wheels/tires I had them balance it on the inside only. Never had a problem with it until recently.

Wheel weights:

PASSENGER SIDE

On the rim: 8 oz
On the lip: 4.5 oz

DRIVER SIDE

On the rim: 6.75 oz
On the lip: 2.75 oz


SHOULD I ADD MORE BEADS? TAKE OFF SOME WHEEL WEIGHTS??

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:32 pm 
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jeepkj02 wrote:
Okay, so my Dynabeads came in today and added 4 oz per tire (fronts only) and still have a vibration. When I bought my wheels/tires I had them balance it on the inside only. Never had a problem with it until recently.

Wheel weights:

PASSENGER SIDE

On the rim: 8 oz
On the lip: 4.5 oz

DRIVER SIDE

On the rim: 6.75 oz
On the lip: 2.75 oz
That's alot of weight on those wheels.Have tires rebalanced and remove beads,or remove wheel weights and add beads.Do not run both weights and beads at the same time.You could have a bad tire(s),try rotating them.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:03 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
That's alot of weight on those wheels.Have tires rebalanced and remove beads,or remove wheel weights and add beads.Do not run both weights and beads at the same time.You could have a bad tire(s),try rotating them.


How much more beads should I add after I remove the weights? Should I remove all the weights? How do I go about removing them? I rotate my tires every 3,000 miles, vibration stays the same. Tread wear is even.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:24 pm 
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jeepkj02 wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
That's alot of weight on those wheels.Have tires rebalanced and remove beads,or remove wheel weights and add beads.Do not run both weights and beads at the same time.You could have a bad tire(s),try rotating them.


How much more beads should I add after I remove the weights? Should I remove all the weights? How do I go about removing them? I rotate my tires every 3,000 miles, vibration stays the same. Tread wear is even.
Remove all the wheel weights on the wheels you added the beads.You really should have the wheels balanced,will tell you if they are egg shaped,broken belt,or bent rim.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:41 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
jeepkj02 wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
That's alot of weight on those wheels.Have tires rebalanced and remove beads,or remove wheel weights and add beads.Do not run both weights and beads at the same time.You could have a bad tire(s),try rotating them.


How much more beads should I add after I remove the weights? Should I remove all the weights? How do I go about removing them? I rotate my tires every 3,000 miles, vibration stays the same. Tread wear is even.
Remove all the wheel weights on the wheels you added the beads.You really should have the wheels balanced,will tell you if they are egg shaped,broken belt,or bent rim.


I might as well give it a try. I already bought the dynabeads. What is the best way to remove the weights. I have both the clip on and stick ons.

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2002 Jeep KJ Sport 3.7L 4x4

245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:44 pm 
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jeepkj02 wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
jeepkj02 wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
That's alot of weight on those wheels.Have tires rebalanced and remove beads,or remove wheel weights and add beads.Do not run both weights and beads at the same time.You could have a bad tire(s),try rotating them.


How much more beads should I add after I remove the weights? Should I remove all the weights? How do I go about removing them? I rotate my tires every 3,000 miles, vibration stays the same. Tread wear is even.
Remove all the wheel weights on the wheels you added the beads.You really should have the wheels balanced,will tell you if they are egg shaped,broken belt,or bent rim.


I might as well give it a try. I already bought the dynabeads. What is the best way to remove the weights. I have both the clip on and stick ons.
Hammer and flat tip screwdriver works if a wheel weight pliers is not available for both types of weights.Do not add more then 4oz of beads to those small tires,could cause more vibs.Seeing you had 9-12oz of weights of those small tires I'd say a rim is bent or a tire is bad(out of round).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:55 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Seeing you had 9-12oz of weights of those small tires I'd say a rim is bent or a tire is bad(out of round).


The only time I had them balanced was when I bought them new. You think they sold me a bad set of wheels and tires??

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245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:58 pm 
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I'd get them rebalanced

often when you end up with a tire that requires a large amount of weight, by turning the tire a bit on the rim it can resolve the weight problem to the point where it doesn't even need a weight

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:59 pm 
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Could of been in the mounting even , or could of been a slightly out of round tire, some places care some do not.
I would of had them checked before the beads went in, sometimes breaking a tire down and spinning it 180 degrees will let it balance and run better/smoother

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:05 pm 
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I'm going to try to remove the wheel weights, if that doesn't cure the vibration, then I'll get them balanced. This time I'll balance them on the outside.

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245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:15 pm 
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Just a thought but could the vibration be the rotors? I know when I had vibration in mine @ 65 to 70mph it was my Warped Rotors/Flat Tires lmao.. I had flat spots on the tires well I replaced them and come to find out the rotors were warped too.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 5:44 pm 
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So I removed all the wheel weights today and I still have a vibration. Do you think its a bad idea to add more beads. My theory is that I had 12.5 oz on my passenger side and 9.5 oz on my drivers side, so maybe 8 oz of beads per tire should balance it out????

Also I should add that I haven't done anything to my rear tires. No beads, no weights removed.




lil black liberty wrote:
Just a thought but could the vibration be the rotors? I know when I had vibration in mine @ 65 to 70mph it was my Warped Rotors/Flat Tires lmao.. I had flat spots on the tires well I replaced them and come to find out the rotors were warped too.


It doesn't vibrate when I'm on the brakes, so I don't think its the rotors, but planning on upgrading them soon anyways. Want some powerslots and ceramic pads.

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245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 6:34 pm 
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Search google for articles about those beads. Its been awhile since Ive read about those but I believe 8oz is what most people add.

Are you sure its not the rear wheels?

The tie rods should not move in the joint(up and down with relation to the Jeep) at all.

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 Post subject: Re: Vibs at 65mph
PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 7:26 pm 
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jeepkj02 wrote:
I've been meaning to check my lower ball joints, but my last attempt resulted in my stock bottle jack failing!! So this time I have my ARB bumper and a hi-lift jack.

I have a severe vibration at highway speeds (60+ mph) while cruising and even worse when I have to pass a car, going from 65 to 70/75mph.

Anyway, my upper and lower ball joints look good, but when I turn the tire side to side (to check the tie rods), the inner tie rod moves in and out? Is that normal?

I was thinking it my wheels/tires are out of balance. So I bought some DynaBeads to try out on my front end.


Tires is the first and easiest place to look. However, in my experience, when one of the lead weights comes off a tire, you start feeling the vibe much earlier than 60+. I suppose it all depends on "how" out of balance it is.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 1:49 pm 
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Today went to the place where I bought my wheels & tires and told them how I get a vibration and to check the tire for balancing. Told them I put tire balancing beads but didn't help. They found out that my front 2 wheels are bend and need replacing. I told them to balance it the best they can and remount them. The moved the bend wheels to the back and the back wheels to the front. Now my vibration is 85% better. Not completely gone, but liveable. Best part, I didn't pay a dime!!! I'll probably just deal with the slight vibration until I swap it out for some MT/Rs or retreads and get Soft 8's instead of the D-windows!!

EDIT: Oh ya, now that my vibration is almost completely gone, I think my rotors are warped. Couldn't tell before because it was always vibrating. Now when I press on the brakes at highway speeds, I get a vibrations. So going to upgrade those soon.

Sorry for the long post!

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245/75-16 Mastercraft Courser HSX, 16x7 Cragar, 2" OME MD Lift, ARB Bumper
AEM Brute Force Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Super 44 Muffler

Currently working on: Full service on transmission & bed-lining ARB bumper

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=84650


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 6:07 pm 
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Always start with the rotors! :wink: :P

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