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Fluids
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=44302		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  ObiHann [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 12:18 pm ]
Post subject:  Fluids
So I'm gonna get off my booty and buy all the fluids I need to change. I'm gonna time it next month when I do my oil change and I'm just wondering what fluids need to be changed, what special tools I may need, and what the amounts are.
I want to change
- Oil
- Tranny
- Coolant (going to get that flushed at a shop probably)
- Diffs

A friend tells me for the diffs I should get a good siphon pump, and I know I also need the additive that I can get at the dealer. So my question is there a special tranny fuild or just any old automatic fluid? What do I put in the diffs? how much goes where? and lastly, am I forgetting something, perhaps flux capacitor fluid? Brake line? power steering? when shoudl that all be changed?
Author:  hrogi [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
If it was my Jeep and I off roaded at all.

I would replace all the fluid with Amsoil..
Use this Site http://www.lubedealer.com/HotRodOil/Home.aspx
PM JJsKJ if you have questions.

Yes Brake fluid Dot 4 is also needed.
Power steering would be nice.

Also check your filters.
If you hav enot do a Diff breather mod and extent them to a higher point in the air.
Author:  ObiHann [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
hrogi wrote:
If it was my Jeep and I off roaded at all.

I would replace all the fluid with Amsoil..
Use this Site http://www.lubedealer.com/HotRodOil/Home.aspx
PM JJsKJ if you have questions.

Yes Brake fluid Dot 4 is also needed.
Power steering would be nice.

Also check your filters.
If you hav enot do a Diff breather mod and extent them to a higher point in the air.


well I don't want to et into a big heated thread about amsoil here, espically when I look at the banner at the top of the site, and read all the names here that include ansoil as part of there signature, its obvious it is well loved as a product. I will say what I said before, amsoil, at least for a engine oil, in my opinion, is far, far too expensive, espically in my local region. I've got quotes from a few different foalks and the cost is incredible compared to going and buying some castrol or motomaster. For me, I try to do as much work as I can to save money, and my goal is to do it cheaper than a shop. If I used all amsoil, I would be spending more than if I took it to a local shop, and that isn't worth it for me. Also considering the fact that nobody in my local Jeep club runs it, nobody I know runs it, and none of the people I know that don't use it, are still driving the same vehicles, some 300k km and still going. It may be amazing stuff, but its not worth it to me. That and I've had freinds to to Canadian Tire and have a amsoil rep just hovering around the oil section, than start harassing them to use amsoil. Like I said, I don't want to start anything, and I probably said too much anyways. I'm gonna be looking into the diff breather mod for sure though, so don't feel like I ignored everyting you said haha
Author:  JeepinJarhead03 [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
not to nitpick but i'd pull the cover on the diff so that you can clean the magnet in the bottom

sipon works alright to get it back in , or if you just need to get possible watered oil out , i usually just put the hose from my sipon on the bottle and stick it in the diff and squeeze until it's full

unless ya offroad it hard i'd use 75w-90 street weight plus your additive

if your power steering is making racket you can use the fluid evacuator or a sipon and suck a good deal of the fluid out of the resoivoir, i replaced most of my ps fluid with lucas power steering leak fix, it's for stopping leaks but works just as well as power steering fluid and makes it much more quieter

for some reason i wanna say its 2.14pts for the rear and 1.73 pts for the front , i'd add the addtive first so that you make sure you get it all in, I always forget and then sit there trying to force feed the additive :lol:

by the way your transfer case takes atf4 just like your tranny and i wanna say that's 2 qts good to change that every 30 too

where you been? ya canadian ghost!
Author:  JJsTJ [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
Obihann,

If you are not going to take advantage of extended service intervals Amsoil probably isn't worth the extra cost even though it is the best you can get for the price. It offers some of the best engine protection you can get and allow you to extend service intervals thereby allowing you to save the difference in cost of doing the services more often. Just like anything else though, there is always something cheaper that will do the job just stay on top of your service interval or watch it w/ oil analysis.

The way I use it is to run my oil changes to about 10,000 miles or about yearly and then change it. Since I have 5 vehicles running Amsoil it keeps me from having to service vehicles every other month and spending more w/ cheaper products. I have more time to play, more $ in my pocket and less worries about the quality of product I am using.

No worries from me for speaking your mind. Its not like you are slamming the product. Sorry to hear your local dealer is agressive. That certainly can be a turn off.
Author:  JeepinJarhead03 [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
price is probably higher up there than it is here in the states too isn't it?

amsoil need sto make finger splints, typing with a broken pinky blows
Author:  ObiHann [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
JeepinJarhead03 wrote:
price is probably higher up there than it is here in the states too isn't it?

amsoil need sto make finger splints, typing with a broken pinky blows


a quote from a local amsoil rep

"Its$23.75 for the filter and $12 per quart of 5w30 synthetic. The oil and filter combination are good for one year or 40000km".
Author:  ObiHann [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 2:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
Right now I change my oil about every 5000km, I usually buy what is on sale, and that so often seems to be castrol gtx or motomaster synthetic blend. I usually spend about $25-$30 on oil, than about $5-10 on my filter (once again another heated debate, but I choose fram or fram extra guard, up here I don't have a huge selection, and fram has the biggest range of products on shelf, also I have yet to meet anyone that has seen any problem, or any mechanic, but lets stay away from that topic lol). All in all I'm spending about $35 out the door. I figured the cost of 5 quarts of oil plus the filter is far far too much, even if I change it every 10k ($23.75+$60). Honestly that rep was the only person I've herever heard say anything about every 40k, seems a bit fishy to me, I was always told synthetic requires a change every 10. I've also had a buddy tell me once to switch to fully synthetic you ahve to do 2 changes before your fully ruining it, if not its just a mixture. My stearing is fine so I will stay away from that, probably will ignore the brake fluid as well. Deffinitly will take the advice on teaking the diffs apart though :)
Author:  JeepinJarhead03 [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 2:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
everything you've said is fully understandable

amsoil isn't that much more expensive here, rather in come cases it can be cheeper than equivalent synthetics depends on what brand you go for, i think my case of amsoil was 60 bucks , air filter was 30, oil filter was 13

12 bucks a quart would hurt, that's enough to make me start runnin pennzoil again

guy i borrowed the stand alone strut / coil compressor from yesterday buys his oil about 1200 bucks at a time he's got like 10 vehicles he buys yearly amounts of oil for all at once

anyway, what was i going to say


oh.. yea crack the diff cover open so you can scoop out the metal stuff with a lint free rag on your finger

just don't pick ya nose with a shiny silver digit ;)

and yes, first oil change or two after you switch to synth from regular oil is more or less a cleaning process
Author:  jnaut [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 3:51 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Fluids
ObiHann wrote:
So I'm gonna get off my @$#% and buy all the fluids I need to change. I'm gonna time it next month when I do my oil change and I'm just wondering what fluids need to be changed, what special tools I may need, and what the amounts are.
I want to change
- Oil
- Tranny
- Coolant (going to get that flushed at a shop probably)
- Diffs

A friend tells me for the diffs I should get a good siphon pump, and I know I also need the additive that I can get at the dealer. So my question is there a special tranny fuild or just any old automatic fluid? What do I put in the diffs? how much goes where? and lastly, am I forgetting something, perhaps flux capacitor fluid? Brake line? power steering? when shoudl that all be changed?


My recommendation for the rear diff is to take the cover off. It's not hard and lets you inspect. The front diff-- different story. And you only need the friction modifier additive if you have a limited slip diff.
Author:  ObiHann [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 3:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Talked to a buddy that will be helping me out and he told me I likely don't need to change the tranny fluid. How many of you guys have ever done that?
Author:  JJsTJ [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 9:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
ObiHann wrote:
Talked to a buddy that will be helping me out and he told me I likely don't need to change the tranny fluid. How many of you guys have ever done that?


How many miles? If original fluid and over 15-20K miles, i'd change it.
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 10:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
Theres nothing special to changing the fluids on the kj. Tcase has a drain and fill plug as does the front diff but the fill plugs suck to get to. Personally I use a marine pump made for changing oil in lower units that I got at walmart, Works awesome for filling the diffs and tcase although its kinda slow.

Image

Get a filter for your tranny(I assume 45rfe). You can use a gasket if it comes with one but I like to use good old RTV. If you do use the gasket get it 100% clean on BOTH surfaces.

You can suck the fluid out of the rear diff but I like to take the cover off so I can inspect everything. Also use RTV there..

There are tons of write ups around that cover things a lot more in depth. Do some searching.
Author:  jnaut [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
ObiHann wrote:
Talked to a buddy that will be helping me out and he told me I likely don't need to change the tranny fluid. How many of you guys have ever done that?


Like... ever? If he meant ever, he's dead wrong. I think it's recommended to change tranny fluid around every 15,000. You could probably do it less often if it's not a daily driver, or ever goes offroad.
Author:  tjkj2002 [ Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
ObiHann wrote:
Talked to a buddy that will be helping me out and he told me I likely don't need to change the tranny fluid. How many of you guys have ever done that?
I've done 4 trans flushes and 2 trans filter changes and I'm almost at 70,000miles.Use only ATF+4 in the auto trans.
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:04 am ]
Post subject: 
Manual doesnt call for the tranny till 60k but I change mine every 30k. Maybe even sooner.
Author:  2-old [ Thu Jun 25, 2009 3:05 am ]
Post subject: 
I'm getting ready to change the Diff oils, and went to Wal-mart and found Super-Tech full synthetic 75w-140 gear lubricant. The shelf label said $4.97, but it rang up $10.57. They gave it to me for 4.97. Has anyone used this before, and if so is it good or not.

When jacking up, how high does it have to be? I bought jack stands to use, but what I read didn't say how high. Also can I use the regular jack, or should I use a floor jack?

I am a noob at 4wheeling, and off-road almost every weekend if I can.
Author:  JJsTJ [ Thu Jun 25, 2009 8:17 am ]
Post subject: 
2-old wrote:
I'm getting ready to change the Diff oils, and went to Wal-mart and found Super-Tech full synthetic 75w-140 gear lubricant. The shelf label said $4.97, but it rang up $10.57. They gave it to me for 4.97. Has anyone used this before, and if so is it good or not.

When jacking up, how high does it have to be? I bought jack stands to use, but what I read didn't say how high. Also can I use the regular jack, or should I use a floor jack?

I am a noob at 4wheeling, and off-road almost every weekend if I can.


I'm sure the lube will be ok but I would make sure to change it at the severe service schedule interval and not leave it in there much longer. Can't beat the deal you got on it and it's better than old factory lube so what the hay right.
I would use a floor jack, jack it up 8-12", place stands under the frame in front of lower control arm mounts, and then let the axle droop down so you can easily get to the cover bolts. For additional safety, I would move the floor jack to where it allows an axle tube to sit just above it just in case. Make sure to give the vehicle a little shake while the jack is still under the diff but weight is on the stands to make sure it has settled on the stands ok Then move the jack to just under an axle tube.

Oh, very important..... make sure you are on LEVEL GROUND, And chock the front tires.

Good luck!
Author:  tjkj2002 [ Thu Jun 25, 2009 10:28 am ]
Post subject: 
After alot of research and a few calls synthetic gear lube is not the best gear lube for your diffs.Sure your fluid temps will be low but the gears and bearings themselfs will actually run hotter due to the inability of synthetic gear lube to effectively draw heat from the metal.Using dyno gear oil is also very important for high pinion axles under severe use.This seams to be a gear oil only deal for some reason. Talked to both Currie and Hi-9 and they only recommend dyno gear oil for there diffs and will not warranty anything if synthetic gear oil is used due to a extremely high failure rate when synthetic gear oil is used compared to dyno gear oil run diffs.

Just my 2 cents after some calls to people that have real world results and not some laboratory results.
















Oh and anyone want to buy 9qts of Mobil 1 75w-140 gear lube? Going and buying Torco dyno gear lube instead.
Author:  Maximum Carnage [ Thu Jun 25, 2009 10:52 am ]
Post subject: 
When you get around to doing your transfer case; just make sure you take off the fill plug before your drain plug. I’ve heard of people having problems taking off the fill plug after it’s been drained :(
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