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 Post subject: Serpintine Belt Install
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 10:22 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2005 11:03 am
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Location: NJ
I know how to run it according to the sticker on my truck but does anyone have a link to an install guide or could you tell me on here?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:42 pm 
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Location: Kentuckeeee
INSTALLATION - 3.7L ENGINE
NOTE: The belt routing schematics are published
from the latest information available at the time of
publication. If anything differs between these schematics
and the Belt Routing Label, use the schematics
on Belt Routing Label. This label is located
in the engine compartment.
Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is
maintained by an automatic ( spring load ) belt tensioner.
(1) Check condition of all pulleys.
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt MUST be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in the wrong direction (Fig. 6).
(2) Install new belt (Fig. 6). Route the belt around
all pulleys except the idler pulley. Rotate the tensioner
arm until it contacts its stop position. Route
the belt around the idler and slowly let the tensioner
rotate into the belt. Make sure the belt is seated onto
all pulleys.
(3) With the drive belt installed, inspect the belt
wear indicator (Fig. 7). On 3.7L Engines the gap
between the tang and the housing stop ( measurement
A ) must not exceed 24 mm (.94 inches).

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:02 pm 
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Master of the Blender
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Location: Margaritaville
Here are some images to go along with the instructions above:
This image shows the fan belt tensioner pulley. This is the one you will need a wrench for.
Image

Using either a 15mm wrench or a 15mm socket with a breakover or ratchet handle, rotate the tensioner pulley clockwise (to the right). This will release the belt so that it can be removed/installed.
Image

In this image you can see the gap present between the belt and pulley. If you are installing the belt just rotate the pulley far enough to let the belt slide in, and then rotate the pulley back to finish the install.
Image

I figure if you have the belt and tools ready this install should take 5 minutes or less.

EDIT: Just updated the images, thanks to Mark (mestopin) for alerting me to this.

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Last edited by corwyyn on Tue Sep 18, 2007 3:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2006 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 5:27 pm
Posts: 1017
Location: Long Island, NY
My tensioner pulley seized and melted down to JUST THE METAL CORE while coming home from the Jeep Jamboree this weekend! I had just left and was 10 minutes away from my uncle's house, who I just had lunch with. The belt was fried to bits.

I called him and he ran to the autoparts store and brought me a new belt and pulley. Installing it was the easiest thing ever. PIcs above are perfect. Made the 3 hour drive home without incident... UNTIL TODAY!

Today, about 2 miles from home, the belt came off. I made it home without overheating somehow, and looked at the other idler pulley and it was toast! All but about 4 ball bearings were gone. TOAST. The belt was there and in tact.

Took the wife's car to Pep Boys for a new idler pulley and a new belt (putting the 1 day old belt in the back as a spare which I wanted to do anyway) and the KJ is back together again!

Now, my concern and questions are:

1) assuming this was the result of all the deep water crossings I did, in muddy, sandy water, is there anything I can do to prevent this from happening to my other pumps/alternater/AC etc? I just degreased the entire engine (again).

2) how did sand get into a sealed ball bearing assembly?

3) the replacement idler pulley (the fixed one) is all plastic except for the bearings. The stock one is ball bearings and a metal shell, as pictured above. Should I take the time to replace this cheap aftermarket plastic thing for an OEM metal one?

For pics, check out http://www.photoworks.com/share/shareLa ... r_25pr_ps2

Check out pictures numbered 159-163 for the repair pics.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2006 10:57 pm 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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Location: Spokane, WA
Mine are not that bad yet, they just sound like a supercharger whine... I have the parts, but no time yet, I still need to put my skid plate on before this weekend too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2006 7:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 5:27 pm
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Location: Long Island, NY
Just be forewarned. they go from "not that bad" to WASTED in no time! Did you see the pics of my pulley?

http://www.photoworks.com/share/shareLa ... r_25pr_ps2

(#162)

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