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| Replacing U-joints? http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4996 |
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| Author: | Troysterr [ Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | Replacing U-joints? |
I took my KJ to the dealer to find out why I have a rumble coming from my drive train, and it turned out to be bad U-joints. They were going to charge me over $300 to replace them, so I decided to try to replace them myself. So...um...anybody done that? Any guidance you can give me? Any idea which of these I should get? Is there any real advantage to getting greasable U-joints? Is Precision a better brand, or AC Delco? Is there a better place to get them? Thanks in advance. |
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| Author: | Troysterr [ Tue Jan 17, 2006 1:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Incidentally, Checker carries a few different U-joints by two different manufacturers. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList ... ts&ptset=A Neapco has a "brute force" line that is apparently their heavy duty U-joint, has a lifetime replacement warranty. Costs $15, while their regular one is $10. They also have a greasable U-joint for $16. McQuay-Norris appears to be the cheaper brand, but their greasable U-joint is about the same price as the Neapco. I'm leaning toward the Neapco brute force (10153BF), unless someone tells me that AC Delco or Precision is a lot better. [Edit:] I just discovered that the same Precision "Super-Strength" u-joints that RockAuto has for $13.51 are $22.99 at Napa. And Precision Universal Joint is a Federal Mogul company--same as Moog. So I'm thinking I'll go that route. |
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| Author: | rocketjocky [ Tue Jan 17, 2006 1:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | u joint repair |
I did the rear u-joint only real advice I can give you is; 1 make sure you get the right size u-joint this sounds strange but I guess there are two sizes AutoZone has both but only the small one is listed in the computer. 2) it is possible to do under the jeep but I will pull the driveshaft out next time. I left it in because I didn't have a way to remove and re-install the clamp on the dust boot. I did a friend’s later and we just used a spot-tie to hold the boot on his. Other than those two issues it was fairly simple, and I think the parts were under $15. Good luck!!!! |
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| Author: | Troysterr [ Tue Jan 17, 2006 1:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks, I appreciate that. Did you need to buy anything besides the u-joints? The shop I'll be using should have heavy grease if I need it...but if I get the non-greasable u-joints, will I need any special tools or other parts/grease/etc.? |
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| Author: | rocketjocky [ Tue Jan 17, 2006 1:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
It really depends on how you intend on getting the joint out it's bolted to the diff but pressed in on the drive shaft side. I used a heavy duty “C” clamp to press out the joint (along with some sockets one large to receive, one small to push) and just reverse the process to reinstall. I also used penetrating oil to help remove the old joint. The only problem other than the wrong size joint I had is the clamp I used to press it out was not heavy enough and bent. It still worked just took longer (Less force on the joint). If you pull it out from under the car pressing the joint out will be much easier. |
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| Author: | benmar2000 [ Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Try calling around to some driveline places.. I had the u-joints installed in my YJ drive shaft for $10 a u-joint.. Took them all of 15 minutes to do the job... You can get U-joints for about $15 - $20 a piece... HTH Ben |
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| Author: | ManicMechanicJoe [ Tue Jan 17, 2006 7:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would run the cheapest and weakest U-joint possible and carry a spare. If you are wheeling and something in your drivetrain breaks-the U-joint is the easiest and cheapest thing to fix. My dad's buddy used to own a 1976 F250 for mudding-he broke u-joints all the time so he installed a heavy duty joint (Ox brand). Then he twisted the driveshaft so he had a new made (a lot stronger-don't have specs). Then everything was fine untill he blew up his tranny (which he replaced with a built C6). He ran that for a while untill he blew his T-case. After he built the T-case he bought NAPA cheapo U-joints and never had a driveline failure. He carries two spare joints (@$12 per joint any body can afford a spare) in his glove box and has yet to have a problem (in the last 10 years) with th drivetrain. Just my two cents... |
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| Author: | krazz1e [ Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Troy, I can help you swap these. I've done a couple before. Here is a good write-up doing it at home, or on the trail: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/ujoint_install/ I would suggest getting the greaseables. They will last longer. That is if they are grease regularly. Shoot em up with some grease every oil change and your good. You need a grease gun though. They come dry from the factory so you'll need to invest in this tool if you don't got one already. Oh also, if your not up to doing it there is a driveshaft specialist store (forgot the name - look in phonebook) they install u-joints for I think it was $15 a pop it's in SLC. They are real easy though, and it would be a good experience.. ( I have yet to do it on my KJ) |
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| Author: | ManicMechanicJoe [ Tue Jan 17, 2006 1:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
this is an easy job that anybody that has done an oil change can do. Worth saving $15 for the experience IMO |
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