Proof Reading/Opinion/Changes

Roachman3700 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:20 pm

Hey Guys,

I am putting together an article on how to do a brake job as well as how to replace your rotors. Before I get permission to post into our Tech section I wanted people to proof read this and offer any suggestions if you have done this before or any grammer errors etc.

Front & Rear Brake & Rotor Installation

DISCLAIMER: Your brakes are a vital safety feature of your Jeep and you should consider professional installation of these components. These instructions are being provided as instructional/informational and L.O.S.T, AZ L.O.S.T., and any officer or member associated is not responsible for your decision to use these directions. We do however strive to make sure that these instructions are as accurate as possible and are specific to a Jeep Liberty.

Before your begin:

Tools Needed
Standard 3/8" Drive Socket wrench
Standard 1/2" Drive Socket Wrench
12mm socket 3/8"
13mm socket 3/8"
22mm socket 1/2" (can be done with 3/8" drive Socket wrench I found this gave me more force to get the bolt loose)
Rubber Mallet
Brake Caliper Compression tool / or a large C clamp
Small Flat Head Screwdriver
Floor Jack
Jack Stands

Parts Needed:
New front brake Pads
New Rear brake Pads
New Front Rotors (if changing)
New Rear Rotors (if changing)
3 - 4 Cans of brake Cleaner (more or less depending on how dirty the components are)

Front brake/Rotor replacement

1. Take Cap off of the brake reservoir so that it will allow the break fluid to go back into the reservoir while compressing the piston on the caliper
2. Jack the front of the jeep up so that both front tires are off the ground, place Jack stands under front of jeep on the frame (don't put them on the lower A ARM for this application)
3. Remove both Front Tires to expose brake assembly (see figure 1)
4. Using 12mm Socket and 3/8" drive socket wrench remove the two bolts from the rear of the caliper (see figure 1)

FIG 1

5. Pull up on Caliper to remove from the Rotor (after removing the caliper, take care not to allow the brake line/hose to support the weight you can temporarily tie them off to the steering knuckle, etc. with a small piece of rope)
6. Remove old pads (take care to not remove metal clips or replace them if they come out during the brake pad removal. These are on the end of each brake pad)

If you are only replacing your brake pads now skip to Step 12

7. Using the 1/2" drive Socket wrench and the 22mm socket remove the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the jeep. (See figure 2)

Fig 2

8. Remove Caliper bracket from jeep (see figure 3)

Fig 3

9. Remove metal clips that may be present on the wheel studs I used a flat head screw driver to remove them (they dont need to be replaced)(see figure 10), then using rubber mallet tap gently on the rear of the rotor and it will pop loose (heavy part so remove slowly and don't drop) (the Center Nut does not hold the rotor on) (see figure 4)

Fig 4

10. Slide new rotor on (if using slotted or cross drilled rotors as I did consult manufacture for proper direction for installation, I had mine installed so that they appear to be rotating towards the rear) (see figure 5)

FIG 5

11. Replace caliper bracket by placing the 22mm Bolts back in and tighten them back down
12. Using the Caliper compression tool or C Clamp compress the piston completely into the caliper (see figure 6 for what the piston looks like)

FIG 6

13. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper bracket and then slide caliper back into place SPECIAL NOTE: if you are not replacing your rotors before putting your new pads in you should first take off the rotors and take them to a local brake/machine shop and have them resurfaced.
14. Insert 12mm bolts and tighten them back on.
15. Once everything is reassembled use the brake cleaner to completely clean the entire area rotate rotor slightly to get behind the new pads.
16. Redo Steps 4 - 15 for other side of jeep.
17. Place front tires back on.

Rear brake/Rotor replacement

1. Jack rear of jeep using rear pumpkin jacking point and place jack stands onto frame or rear axel tubes of the jeep (take care to make sure that you are always looking out for safty even with jack stands in place)
2. Remove rear tires on both sides to expose rear brake assembly (see figure 7)

FIG 7

3. Using 13mm socket and 3/8" drive socket wrench to remove both bolts on the rear of the rear caliper (see figure 8 )

FIG 8

4. Remove Metal clip that is on top of the rotor by pressing ends inwards (SEE FIGURE 9)

FIG 9

5. Slide up and remove caliper from rotor. (after removing the caliper, take care not to allow the brake line/hose to support the weight you can temporarily tie them off to the steering knuckle, etc. with a small piece of rope)

If only replacing brake pads skip to step 9

6. Remove metal clips that may be present on the wheel studs I used a flat head screw driver to remove them (see figure 10)

FIG 10

6. Using rubber mallet tap gently on rear of old rotor to loosen up remove slowly as this is heavy part.
7. This will expose the E-brake Pads (see figure 11)

FIG 11

8. Place new rotor on to wheel studs (If slotted or cross drilled rotors are used consult manufacture for proper direction) I installed them with the pattered pointing towards the rear of the Jeep (see Figure 12)

FIG 12

9. Remove old brake pads you will have to push forward and up to remove the first one (see figure 13)

FIG 13

10. Using rotor compression tool or large C Clamp compress rotor piston completely in.
11. Place new pads into placement
12. Slide caliper and pads onto the rotor by first putting the bottom of the rotor in and sliding the top into place. SPECIAL NOTE: if you are not replacing your rotors before putting your new pads in you should first take off the rotors and take them to a local brake/machine shop and have them resurfaced.
13. Replace 13mm bolts and tighten on.
14. Replace metal clip on top of rotor (see fig 9)
15. Once everything is reassembled use the brake cleaner to completely clean the entire area rotate rotor slightly to get behind the new pads.
16. Repeat steps 3 - 15 on other side.
17. Put rear tires back on.

FINAL STEPS

1. Place brake reservoir lid back on.
2. Start Jeep and pump brakes several times until the pressure is back to what you are used to.
3. Start off by going very slow applying the brake to make sure that you have complete brake control
4. Once satisfied with braking power drive jeep normally.

Guyute1210 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:19 pm

Missing Figure 4.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:22 pm

Clearer pics maybe? or am I still seeing red and just can't focus?

Even w/out clearer pics, nice write up.

I figured out why you Really did this though.....SHOWING OFF THOSE BLING ROTORS!! :wink:

Roachman3700 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:32 pm

Guyute1210 wrote:

Missing Figure 4.

NICE Catch Thx

JJsKJ wrote:

Clearer pics maybe? or am I still seeing red and just can't focus?

Even w/out clearer pics, nice write up.

I figured out why you Really did this though.....SHOWING OFF THOSE BLING ROTORS!! :wink:

Those are the Pic's I have to work with I tried getting them a little clearer mabey next time

yea but If I remember you also have the BLINK BLINK Rotors also

krazz1e · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:44 pm

well done, pics are a bit blurry but hey they are better than all text. thanks for your efforts.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:47 pm

Roachman3700 wrote:

Guyute1210 wrote:

Missing Figure 4.

NICE Catch Thx

JJsKJ wrote:

Clearer pics maybe? or am I still seeing red and just can't focus?

Even w/out clearer pics, nice write up.

I figured out why you Really did this though.....SHOWING OFF THOSE BLING ROTORS!! :wink:

Those are the Pic's I have to work with I tried getting them a little clearer mabey next time

yea but If I remember you also have the BLINK BLINK Rotors also

Nope, still stock and 35K on them, never changed yet. :shock:

Myke · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:48 pm

Good going with this. Maybe we can get one to do a rear drum to rotor conversion.

fiend · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:58 pm

I am impressed. I can do the job but would never have had the patience to do a write up for it.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 7:35 pm

I always wondered how the ebrake worked. Does it get better when you put power slot rotors on? Do you need to change those pads if you leave it on then drive down the highway?

Roachman3700 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 9:58 pm

They Ebrake is seperate pads and I dont think that the slotted rotors would make a diffrence. To answer you second question yes if you were to go down the highway with the brake on you would likly need to replace the ebreak pads. Mine are getting close but I didn't replace them this time. Next Time I will.

Later,
Dan

camper · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:28 pm

I have only shade tree experience so take my comments in that light...I'd really like to see more of this type of content on this forum....so thanks for the effort....

those star washers around some of the wheel studs are also found on the front rotors....as you stated, they have to come off before you can slide the old rotor off....you could mention encountering them while discussing the front job....I don't believe it is necessary to replace them....and if your not replacing the rotors, you should have them turned (brake lathe) at a machine shop before putting the new pads on....it's a few dollars more and kills some time, but it's the correct way to do a brake job....the wear grooves on the old rotor will prevent the new pads from seating as effectively against the surface....the rotors are designed with enough thickness to allow at least one remachining....(unless they are very severely worn as when the brake pads fail and metal to metal occurs)....

after removing the caliper, take care not to allow the brake line/hose to support the weight....you can temporarily tie them off to the steering knuckle, etc. with a small piece of rope....

when you list the needed tools....I've always called my ratchet wrenches 3/8 inch "drive" or 1/2 inch "drive".....which of course means the size of the square in the various socket sizes that fit that particular wrench....in your text, you say use a "12mm socket and 3/8" wrench" which is a little confusing....you mean use a 12mm socket on your 3/8 drive ratchet....I think folks will understand what you mean but I'm just being picky....if you have the necessary metric socket sizes covered in only one size ratchet drive, you can still disassemble/reassemble....

you can put your car stands under the rear axle tubes when working on the rear.....it might be a little more stable.....as always when your jeep is on stands, try not to get too comfortable and forget safety.....I hate to see folks pulling and prying on the jeep when their legs are underneath, etc....

and finally, good call on the "brake clean".....used to be that brake shoes and pads were asbestos and the "dust" was a health risk to mechanics....the brake cleaner was a way to liquify the dust and limit your exposure to inhaling it or handling it....now brake pads are made of other materials but they still make a mess....I usually buy it in the aerosol can, so I would say "cans"....not bottles....anyway, it's a very useful product for lots of home mechanic jobs....cleans grease without the residue of gasoline....dries quickly like alcohol.....every garage needs PB blaster, WD-40, and CRC Brakleen....

Roachman3700 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 17, 2006 11:54 pm

Camper thanks for the thought out reply I have made some adjustments to the document per your thoughts. BTW Good point about the resurfacing of the rotors.... I didn't do that last break pad change and paid for it with having to buy new rotors

.... Funny thing is those slotted/and drilled rotors were cheaper then OEM

.

Later,
Dan

Roachman3700 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 18, 2006 1:50 pm

Any other comments before I look to get this put into the Tech Section?

later,
Dan

FL RENNY · **Joined:** Mon Nov 07, 2005 4:30 pm **Posts:** 458

Thanks a lot Dan for the write up. I was gonna have someone do them for me, but bc I love working on the Jeep...i will now do them myself. Those Cross-Drilled roters are AWESOME?!? Did you order them online? I'd like to get a pair, i can tell the difference in stopping distance now that i've got the 32's. Anyone have any idea on where to get those for my '04 Renny?
Stopping quick is crucial driving around Jacksonville's streets. We got a bunch of crazies out here. :twisted:

Roachman3700 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 18, 2006 3:38 pm

I got mine from a guy on Ebay that runs a store their name is ROTORWORKS. I got them for just less then 50.00 per which is a good price. Stopping distance yes I found that with cermaic pads and these rotors I have a better feeling when stopping.

later,
Dan

PCTim · **Posted:** Thu Jan 19, 2006 9:49 am

My only suggestion is (and this is just MY opinion, others may vary) I keep the lid on the brake resevoir when I compress the cylinders. In my experience, when the lid is off, 2 things can happen. 1. Fluid can squirt everywhere, making quite a mess under the hood. 2. Air can get into the lines if the fluid gets too low (see #1). Again, this is only my opinion, and it's worked for me for the past 20 years or so. BTW, you did a great job with the write-up. Very informative.

FL RENNY · **Joined:** Mon Nov 07, 2005 4:30 pm **Posts:** 458

DAN -- I tried to find ROTORWORKS on EBAY and searched everything I could think of. Do you happen to have any other way to get ahold of that guy? Or a website? Plus I dont have an EBAY account so I can torder off their anyway? Thanks for your help

kickit_in4wheel · **Posted:** Thu Jan 19, 2006 1:32 pm

He just had to clarify for me. it's *rotorworks* with the asterisks. Try this:

http://search.stores.ebay.com/Rotorwork ... 21QQsofpZ0

Rick

p.s. Thanks Dan (Roachman 3700)

FL RENNY · **Joined:** Mon Nov 07, 2005 4:30 pm **Posts:** 458

Thanks, now if he has a way of purchasing besides EBAY.. I'll shoot him an e-mail

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