Remove Engine Cradle or The engine?? hmmmmm...

Burton12 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:10 pm **Posts:** 63

Well I think I'm going to want to get the oil pan off to check and see if i have a spun rod bearing or not due to the engine noise that i have been having for the last few months, what do you guys think i should do to get access Remove Engine Cradle or The engine?? what will be less time consuming or easiest?

Thanks

Mark

stumpjumper_09 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 13, 2010 8:52 pm

I vote for the engine. To remove the cradle you have to dissassemble the entire front end to get the diff out, suspend the engine while you drop the cradle and have an alignment done after you put it back together because you have to remove the lower control arms to remove the diff. Unless you cut the bolts like I did on Evil Libby's :2cents:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 13, 2010 9:05 pm

Dropping the engine cradle is by far the easiest and fastest way to get to the oil pan.No need to remove the LCA's,front diff,or R&P steering gear to drop the cradle.It's about 20 or so bolts/nuts and the cradle will fall.You do on the other hand need a way to support the engine from the top,made one out of 1"x2" 11guage steel tubing and one 1500lbs rated ratchet strap and cost about $20 to make,attaches to 2 of the 4 studs that hold the strut assembly to the unibody(each side) since I had to drop the cradle for my SFA swap.Took me about 1 hour in a slopped driveway with no air tools,figure about 2-3 to re-install.

There is 2 bellhousing bolts that are very hard to get to unless you tilt the trans down,which means dropping the t-case/trans cross member also.

stumpjumper_09 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 13, 2010 9:18 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

Dropping the engine cradle is by far the easiest and fastest way to get to the oil pan.No need to remove the LCA's,front diff,or R&P steering gear to drop the cradle.It's about 20 or so bolts/nuts and the cradle will fall.You do on the other hand need a way to support the engine from the top,made one out of 1"x2" 11guage steel tubing and one 1500lbs rated ratchet strap and cost about $20 to make,attaches to 2 of the 4 studs that hold the strut assembly to the unibody(each side) since I had to drop the cradle for my SFA swap.Took me about 1 hour in a slopped driveway with no air tools,figure about 2-3 to re-install.

There is 2 bellhousing bolts that are very hard to get to unless you tilt the trans down,which means dropping the t-case/trans cross member also.

SO WE MEET AGAIN TJKJ.... YOU MAY HAVE WON THIS TIME BUT YOU HAVE NOT HEARD THE LAST OF THE STUMPJUMPER.... (EVIL LAUGH)

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 13, 2010 9:32 pm

stumpjumper_09 wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

Dropping the engine cradle is by far the easiest and fastest way to get to the oil pan.No need to remove the LCA's,front diff,or R&P steering gear to drop the cradle.It's about 20 or so bolts/nuts and the cradle will fall.You do on the other hand need a way to support the engine from the top,made one out of 1"x2" 11guage steel tubing and one 1500lbs rated ratchet strap and cost about $20 to make,attaches to 2 of the 4 studs that hold the strut assembly to the unibody(each side) since I had to drop the cradle for my SFA swap.Took me about 1 hour in a slopped driveway with no air tools,figure about 2-3 to re-install.

There is 2 bellhousing bolts that are very hard to get to unless you tilt the trans down,which means dropping the t-case/trans cross member also.

SO WE MEET AGAIN TJKJ.... YOU MAY HAVE WON THIS TIME BUT YOU HAVE NOT HEARD THE LAST OF THE STUMPJUMPER.... (EVIL LAUGH)

If you post a pic of yourself petting a cat I just may die laughing :ROTFL:

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 13, 2010 11:57 pm

I think we all would laugh even harder if there was a miniature version of diggerfreek on his lap

Neatus · **Posted:** Wed Apr 14, 2010 10:34 am

Remove Engine Cradle or The engine?? hmmmmm...

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