After installing my DIY Frankie, I was having UCA to Spring contact at full droop (like when I would hit potholes or speed bumps) We all know that is not a good thing. So that is why I had requested a busted UCA from anyone on here. I was hoping to come up with a way to remove the OEM ball joint, and put a Moog UBJ on there that allowed for camber adjustment. After looking at it for a while, I concluded that was not an easily do-able idea. But I COULD extend the arm by replacing the rubber bushing with a new one that had an offset hole. So here are a few shots of what I came up with. The black material is ABS plastic. The center has a steel bushing press-fit into it. I have had these in for about 2000 miles so far and they are holding up just fine. I pulled them yesterday to inspect, and they look great so far. My initial concern was vibration or rough ride since I was replacing the rubber bushing with a hard plastic. But they ride great. I effectively extended the control arms by 1/4". It was just the right amount to eliminate the UCA to spring contact I was having. Rides great now.

So what do you think?

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2007 Light Khaki 4x2 Sport
- Debadged - LTT CAI with Amsoil Filter - JVC HD Radio - Infinity BassLink
- Iggee Seat Covers - Black Moabs - 265/75-16 Cooper Discoverer ATP - 4.10's
- DIY Franky sitting at 23.75" - Al's 4.5 UCAs - Trimmed F&R Bumpers
- Removed Rear Sway Bar - Removed Rear Vibration Damper
- 75k miles so far...

The only problem I see is that little metal tab sticking out that interlocks into the metal housing which is pressed into the UCA,the silver tab in the pic below.




With that tab the UCA can not pivot like it is supposed to and will...........

1-rip out of the bushing when flexed
2-break the plastic bushing
3-cause the bushing metal sleeve to turn in the UCA thus causing play in the UCA which can lead the major failure(IE breaking).
4-making the bushing rotate in the UCA pocket which leads to lose UCA bolts and/or melting the plastic bushing which again will result in major failure.

Not a good idea at all,either way you look at it without using a flexible material it will always end up in major failure.

The metal tab you mention is actually a 1/8" steel dowel pin. It is press fit into the ABS and the Steel. It is designed to hold the ABS for rotating within the steel collar of the control arm. It rotates the same way as the stock UCA. The stock bushing has a steel sleeve thru the middle of it. That is the same as I have. Stock UCA rotates freely up and down when torqued to proper tightness. And there is actually a slip-fit between the ABS and the steel sleeve on mine. Therefore, the steel can stay statically bound from the torqued down bolts. The ABS bushing and arm rotate about that. It is lubricated between the steel inner sleeve and the ABS bushing as well. The plastic I.D. may wear over time. But I am aware of that and will be watching it carefully. Major or catastrophic failure? I don't think so. The worst that happens is the steel bushing gets loose inside the plastic causing a little play. As I said, I will be watching that. If it wears, I will re-design.

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2007 Light Khaki 4x2 Sport
- Debadged - LTT CAI with Amsoil Filter - JVC HD Radio - Infinity BassLink
- Iggee Seat Covers - Black Moabs - 265/75-16 Cooper Discoverer ATP - 4.10's
- DIY Franky sitting at 23.75" - Al's 4.5 UCAs - Trimmed F&R Bumpers
- Removed Rear Sway Bar - Removed Rear Vibration Damper
- 75k miles so far...

Nice home-built way around a problem.

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LOST # 633
'05 KJ 3.7L/6spd/241 245/75/16 MT's
'88 MJ 4.0L/AW4/231 SWB HPD30 & trac-loc D44 w/3.73's
A dirty Jeep is a happy Jeep