Yep do not use anti-seize and make sure the engine temp is below 140 degrees before pulling the plugs(head temp not coolant temp) and you will be fine.Anti-seize gives a false torque reading which will pull those threads out of the head.

2nd not using Iriduim plugs in the KJ,not enough juice to run them properly.

Opps, the Mechanic put anti-seize on each plug…………

I’ve only heard good things about the Iridium plugs in the KJ, so I’m not sure how I skipped the “lack of juice” scenario. According to the manufacture’s specifications based on the 2007 model year, the Iridium plugs were recommended.

Copper core plugs are the recommended plug still even in the up coming '11 3.7's,though that is not what parts stores have listed.Parts houses/stores are wrong about there listings about 95% of the time.

You maybe mistaking the 3.7 with the VVT 5.7 which switched to Iriduim plugs in '08 or '09.

I have used anti-seize. Very sparingly. No problems. When I put the plugs in I thread them by hand with the ratchet off the extension until they are finger tight and then put the ratchet on and 1/2 turn max. Since I do it myself and don't need to drive to a shop I always do it in the morning when the engine is "stone cold". I have never had any problems with any of my vehicles doing it this way.

That said, I have also not used anti-seize when changing plugs and not had problems.(not with the KJ but an aluminum head engine-"stone cold" like I said)


I have been using the OEM NGK's with the copper core with no issues. They are only around $18 for 6 at NAPA. I might try the Autolite double platinum next time if I feel like it when the time comes..

Since the plugs were already changed I wouldn't worry about it. See how thw iridiams last. Pull the #1 plug when you get 25,000 miles on them and check it out.

I am not a professional mechanic or anything like Troy is, just a back yard one. I don't want to mislead anyone.

Just my experience and

Tom, if you change them every month, of course you don't need anti-seize!

yes anymore I just open the hood and yell real loud, old ones outnew ones in and its done, quick and easy less than 5 minutes!
But really I mean almost 150,000 miles, almost 6 years in September, not that many times.........

Changed mine at 30k with Autolite DP and used Anti Seize. Ive got a torque wrench built into my wrist that automatically adjusts for the lower torque needed with anti seize.

Back in my automotive wrenching days those type of torque jobs by other people were always money makers for me
Aluminum head = ALWAYS us a torque wrench and no anit-seize. Also if I remember properly, anti-seize reduces(same as extentions) torque which would require more torque. If a spark plug is properly torqued there is no need for anti-seize.

who the hell puts anti-seize on wheel studs lol

x2 on that, i saw it when I was working in a shop too, that and white lithium on the belts... excuse.. "It was squeeling.. so i greased it.. now my alt and temp lights are on

there were moments where the belt would stop moving as the accessories slipped and it gave a "timing light" sort of effect, apparently he started the truck and just started spraying until the noise stopped

half a can later he came and saw me