Hi, this is my 1st post and I have a sound and vibration when taking off mainly when turning left. My buddy the tire salesman tells me its U Joints after he was nice enough to sell me 4 new tires!!! He also says there about $125 a piece. I have done some looking around and J C Whitney has them from 999 to 18 and change.. IS this the same u joints as my " buddy" tells me about and when doing them, should I also change the shaft? Maybe it is not straight? Maybe it isn't the shaft or joint at all.. Can someone help me with their similar sound and vibration issue mainly at takeoff>>> Thanks

Rear u joints will most times give you a squeak squeak squeak getting faster as you speed up. Drive it a ways and then put your hand on one of the rear joints, if its hot its bad!
Could be a number of things but not sure if your buddy knows what he is talking about

I had a vibe at take off that went away when I replaced the rear u joint. I think I paid 30 dollars and swapped it myself.

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06 White KJ Sport 4x4
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2432458/1

get a set of precision u-joints from orileys or advance or autozone or somewhere. shouldn't cost you more than 30-35 for the pair plus a few bucks for a small bucket of hi-temp anti-corrosion grease, when you go to remove the rear driveshaft you're probably going to find that it's stuck to the tailshaft as there is probably no grease left in the slip

1. flat head screw driver to spread the rearward steel clamp holding the boot enough that you can move the boot up and down the shaft by hand
2. remove bolts from the driveshaft flange holding the driveshaft to the rear yoke
3. work the rear of the driveshaft down so that you can rest it on your chest or stomach, then once you manage to coerce the driveshaft rearward on the slip and out of the boot remove it from the vehicle
4. soak all the ujoint cclips with penetrating oil
5. wack a cclip with appropriate sized socket and hammer and remove cclip
6. repeat on opposite side until all cclips are out
7. drill a hole in a piece of 2x4 larger than the size of the ujoint caps, position cap over hole and use socket and hammer, or bench vice to press cap through hole until it's free

rinse repeat

thouroughly clean yokes with wire brush and resoak with penetrating oil prior to installation of new joints

a 1500lb carpenter hand vice can come in handy for installation, so will a bench vice or socket and hammer

it'll take you some work, it can be a bear especially with heavily rusted yokes

just take care and mind the cap bearing needles with re installation, a good wad of grease smudged inside the cap will help keep the bearings from shifting during reinstallation, if the ujoint doesn't move freely or feels bound up or grindy or some sort of unsmooth.. you need to uninstall that movement directions caps and check to make sure nothing fell out of place, it's not unheard of to have a needle fall out of place and get crushed during reinstall so keep your old caps and pull the needles out of it and clean them good incase you need to pick one of the better needles left for use with the new caps should one get broken


however, as Tom mentioned, it could be any number of things, brake pad toasted, a CV joint etc

but with over 8 years on it with un-serviceable ujoints, it's time for new ones and very well may be your culprit

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03 Renegade (Black)
177k miles 3.7L gas - 45RFE
Command Trac / 4.10s
Lift: ft. 790+ rr. JBA4+
The last of the TrailReady Front&Rear Bumpers and TR Rock Rails
Jarhead Offroad light covers
31x10.5R15 RedLetter Grabbers on Blackrock Dunes
L.O.S.T #KD098632