IIRC, the ZJ, XJ front diffs are the same width. Just make sure to look for High pinion diffs. Not sure how they compare width wise to a KJ rear. Grab your tape, go measure the KJ and let us all know. Please?
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| KJ Axel Track... http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=566 |
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| Author: | uvalax236 [ Tue Jul 19, 2005 8:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | KJ Axel Track... |
What is the Axel Track on the KJ? I am refering to the exact width of the rear axel measured from the mounting of one tire to the other side aka the whole assembly (brakes and all). The reason I'm asking is because I want to find out if a 96 ZJ front axel will fit the KJ or if I need to look more twards an XJ or TJ. Thanks all! |
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| Author: | JJsTJ [ Tue Jul 19, 2005 10:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
IIRC, the ZJ, XJ front diffs are the same width. Just make sure to look for High pinion diffs. Not sure how they compare width wise to a KJ rear. Grab your tape, go measure the KJ and let us all know. Please?
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| Author: | uvalax236 [ Wed Jul 20, 2005 1:01 am ] |
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Does the ZJ axel come stock as a HP? How can I tell? Why is it important to get a HP? Sorry for all the "Noob" questions... I'm still learning from everyone here who contributes to LOST. |
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| Author: | JJsTJ [ Wed Jul 20, 2005 7:31 am ] |
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Not sure if the ZJ's are all HP. I know some of the later model XJ's used Low pinions though. I would guess or bet some ZJ's came LP. Also, some ZJ's used CV style axles on the D30. Better to get a regular u-joint style D30 instead. I would just shop for a HP D30 out of a XJ. Avoid the Disco axle ones though. Avoid any that are pre-94 and have a box like object on the passenger side axle tube w/ vacuum lines going to it. The HP is desired because the pinion sits higher off the ground which keeps it and the driveshaft away from rocks, etc. Keep asking ?'s!! Only dumb  is one that never gets answered 
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| Author: | Eddo [ Wed Jul 20, 2005 9:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
JJ, I see you use this all the time but what does IIRC mean? |
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| Author: | uvalax236 [ Wed Jul 20, 2005 9:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Measured the Track Width out and it came to "Roughly" 63 1/2". When I say roughly, that means that my measurements could be off by a 1/2" margine... if not less. |
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| Author: | 2003KJ [ Wed Jul 20, 2005 10:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Eddo wrote: JJ, I see you use this all the time but what does IIRC mean?
IIRC = If I Recall Correctly
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| Author: | JJsTJ [ Wed Jul 20, 2005 10:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | OR.... |
IIRC = IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY
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| Author: | 2003KJ [ Wed Jul 20, 2005 1:01 pm ] |
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remember, recall, same thing!!!...lol |
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| Author: | chefdab [ Wed Jul 20, 2005 4:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
How would I be able to tell if it's a high pinion axle? Does it have markings on it or was part of a certain package (ie. limited, but not on a sport)? And did they use disc or drum brakes on these axles? |
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| Author: | kevh [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 12:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
if not tagged, just look at where the drive shaft enters the diff. considering the way jeep threw different danas at every package for every vehicle, you are probably just going to have to look at them. if it is a little below the middle, it is a low pinion. if it enters nearer the top, it is high pinion you may also want to ask/search over at colorado4x4.org IIRC the high pinion axles (at least the d30 from the cherokees i think) are reverse cut and it has been debated long and hard as to the amount of strength you lose on a reverse cut gearset since the pinion actually applies force to the rear of the ring gears teeth. shouldnt really even come into play until you go to 5.38s or higher where the ring starts to get thin and the pinion gets tiny. just something to keep in mond also, i am thinking the tj d30 might be the wrong length, but in case you do try to re-gear one, the tj d30 takes a different r&p that any other d30 (cant remember why) so be sure to tell them its for a tj d30 when it doescome time to regear, randy's ring & pinion is a great place for parts/info |
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| Author: | uvalax236 [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 12:10 pm ] |
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Thanks everyone for all the replies. I am talking to S&N Fab about getting an axle built for me. This will include mounts for the steering assembly and coil overs. Im hoping to run 6" ajustable coil overs and have 33" swampers. Anyone know if I would have to upgrade my rear axle (Corperate*SP 8.25) for 33's? This is not coming within the next few days though, this is all talk that will happen in the next few weeks - 2 months from now. The wallet needs to get nice and fat to do this stuff. |
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| Author: | 2003KJ [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 1:08 pm ] |
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Ive always heard the 8.25 is a pretty strong axle for your normal wheelin....just what ive heard. Dont know how much truth there is to it. |
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| Author: | uvalax236 [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:42 pm ] |
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JJ what is your stand on the topic? Will a 8.25 be strong enough to hold 33's? |
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| Author: | JJsTJ [ Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:51 pm ] |
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uvalax236 wrote: JJ what is your stand on the topic? Will a 8.25 be strong enough to hold 33's?
Yes, No problem. You might want to consider what gearing you might want to run in the future though. The 8.25 will only accept up to a 4.56 gear. That gear will work fine on a street And trail driven rig, but you won't be able to move to a lower gear in rear if you want to. I also believe that Yukon or ?? makes better axles for the 8.25, Can't remember who it was for sure. There are plenty of 8.25's running 33's and 35's in XJ's w/out problems. But just like anything else, you have to drive it w/in reason and go easy. Finesse! Hope that helps.
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