I think it is possibly wheel bearings but not sure how to check..

I get the noise like im running oversized mud tires while driving, and my vehicle isnt coasting like it used to.

Also little squeeks every now and then.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance

Caliper slider pins are sticking,frequent problem on the liberty,if you want to check the wheel bearing,well it should get really hot to the touch after a ride(the wheel)but the sticking brakes can do that to,and you can jack the jeep,and try to shake the wheel like up and down,and side to side if it shakes,the it might be a loose bearing.

The noise should get stronger as speed increase to.

If not,check the calipers pins,clean them,lube and go!

what is a caliper pin? also how would i tell if thats the problem?

Thanks for the reply!!

so wheel bearings i would have play and the rim would be hot after driving?

Could very well be the CV/Intermediate shaft going bad as well. It when bad enough will give you a rumbling like sound sometimes

_________________
MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

what is that and how do i check it?

well i just went to the garage took off both tires in the front, and noticed some things....

well i tried to wiggle the rotors for play to see if its the wheel bearing, and it was tight no play. thats how i read to check them but not extremely positive if its correct. but no play

Then i spun the rotors with my hand, they both made somewhat of a grinding noise, like the pads were contacting them. also the passenger side was a lot harder to turn, neither of them spun freely but both seemed to be making contact judging by the friction..

i also noticed that there was almost a stamp print around the passenger rotor, my friend said it was shadowing, not sure if that means anything. But it looked liked dark grey stamp marks on the face of the rotor..

now, what should i do? Since its midnight and in germany no stores are open so tomorrow im planning on getting a wire brush and knocking off some of the rust off and cleaning the whole brake assembly up. But should i take off the caliper and see if the pins are seized? (i youtubed it so now i know what they are) what else could it be?

Ok,the slider pins are the guide pins that the brake caliper sits on,the brake caliper is suppose to move in and out when you press-depress the brake pedal,the problem is this,where the caliper bolts itself,the bolts are being part of a slider sleeve,wich stays on the hub mount,and those sleeves get rusted,and then dosent slide freely like it should,so you have your front brakes sticking.

You take the caliper off,pull the sleeves out,clean them,lube with antiseize,insert them back,and thats it,you now coast like before!!!

You will see like a spring effect from the caliper pins if they are moving free,if not,thats probably the problem.

im going and buying antiseaze today, and ill see if i can snap a few photos of the process!

well i got some brake anti seaze copper something, dont have it on hand right now.

But i applied it to the brake pad clips and also the tabs that slide into the brake clips. I noticed that the passenger outside (closest to rim) had more wear then all the others, and was a pain in the booty to get in and out of the clips. Maybe that one is my problem? If so what all needs to be replaced? parts and info would be appreciated!

Im not sure on how to bleed the brake lines so i didnt do the caliper pins, but i already noticed most of the noise is gone, so i think i found the problem. Do i even have to bleed the brakes to do so? i would like to do the clips also but i would like some words of wisdom to chime in!

also i noticed that the pads have barely any ware on them, and the rotors have some life on them also since the brakes were done right before i bought them. Just curious on what causes this? maybe a poor service and they didnt apply the brake goop to the right parts?

back to wanting to get the caliper pins with the brake seaze! steps and maybe some pictures would be nice!

Thanks in advance!

When you take the caliper off,the two bolts that you remove are the pins,and the metal sleeve stays inside the calipers,those are the one that need to be lubed,and you dont need to bleed anything to do so,you only bleed if you open the oil system,like for changing a brake line or a hose,or even a caliper,but for now you dont need to open anything.

The metal clips your talking about are the pads holder,wich rust,break,and get loose,so you pull them of,clean the rust under them,and simply put new ones,about 15$ for the kit for both sides,you ask for the front pads holder kit at the autoparts store.

I have the workshop manual but cant put a picture on here,dont know how to copy a pdf image into here

Do a search on here for workshop manual there is a link for it,you download it and you will have the best tool for your future projects!

If you dont find it,just tell me and i ll send you a pdf copy via email.

http://www.google.ca/imgres?q=jeep+libe ... 80&bih=807

There you go for the pins and sliders

and that how they are on the caliper

http://www.google.ca/imgres?q=jeep+libe ... =143&ty=62

now on the caliper, the bolts with the rubber housing(looks like the cv boot) i thought that was what needed to be lubed. these are the bolts that have almost like a spring effect, and watching youtube they grease those but they do it with the caliper completely disconnected. can i do it with the brake line still attached?

i took a wire brush to the calipers and underneath the clips. ran the wire brush also on the tabs on the pads to knock off some surface rust.

this is my first time messing with brakes, so go brakes for dummies lol

Yes sir you can do with the brake line still on it,its a rubber flexible hose so dont worry,of course be carefull,dont hang yourself with the hose but you can work on it without being affraid,thats the purpose of a flexible hose...Plus you told me that you had burned spots on the rotor,so 90% sure thats the problem you have!

Good luck

the rubber housing are where the metal sleeves goes into,yes you lube it all.

well i guess now all thats left is to go do it!

so basically take off the caliper and lube up any moving parts on the assembly besides the pad and rotor themselves....

Yes sir!Go ahead dont be afraid you will see how easy it is

well that was simple, and no noises anymore.

It was crazy to see that the pins had no spring/rebound affect. Then i cleaned them off and cleaned out the hole they go into. new copper paste and they seem like new!

pretty simple task! Now how long will this last, or when does it need to be serviced again?

Well i do mine,well i check them every two oil changes,simple and fast verification,and that way im sure everything is in good order.

Glad to see your problem solved,and now you have some more knowledge wich is great!